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Bosch classixx frost free fridge freezer

The fridge compartment is not cold. have tried "defrosting it" with the door open, to allow the evaporator to defrost, but the container at the rear is dry.

During the guarrantee period a heating element was fitted to prevent ice build up. The problem was a warm fridge then too.

I bought it in, new, January 2007

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Posted on May 28, 2009

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Fridge is warm freezer is cold


Hello Abo Karin,

You are likely experiencing a DEFROST failure
(most commonly a defrost PCB failure)...
part number 67006740 item 5 on your exploded
case view (top center as viewed from the front).

There are typically only three (3) elements to a DEFROST
power control circuit:
- Defrost Printed Circuit Board ( PCB as noted above)

- Heater element to WARM the EVAPORATOR

- DEFROST thermostat... inhibit excess heat
(closed circuit at freezing - Opens at room temperature)

Check your defrost pan...
there should be water there DAILY...

IF not: you are assured that your DEFROST fails.

Per your DESCRIPTION...
You need to look for a SUDDEN REASON (huge air leak)
why FROST would form so quickly...
USUALLY a big pizza box... BUT ANYTHING blocking a
TIGHT DOOR SEAL will cause massive frosting.

It is taking moisture from the WARM ROOM AIR and blocking your evaporator...

a PROPERLY functioning defrost circuit would remove that frost
at least DAILY... and the EVAPORATOR fan would properly chill the refrigerated side blowing cold air from the FREEZER.

Yes ... all INTERIOR panels must be in place for the refrigerator to function properly.

Hope this helps

Your part... (see video instructions)
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-board-jazz-wpw10503278-ap6022400.html

Sears... (I don't USUALLY recommend for purchase)
http://www.searspartsdirect.com

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Repair-Maintenance/Questions-Answers/location-of-defrost-timer-on-sears-fridg/Model-59665932402/0582/0161000/338616?modelNumber=59665932402

also see other .com retailers
partsselect,
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Apr 19, 2017 | Kenmore Refrigerators

3 Answers

Water from fridge not going down plug hole into container. How ofter should the water container be emptied at the back of the fridge/freezer I have a sub zero frigerator #550 its about 15 years old....


Hi,

Self-defrosting refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle, usually via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. .

If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.You can use a hair dryer and remove the ice buildup

Oct 30, 2008 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My refrigerator is not getting is cold as it did. The freezer works great, but the fridge is at the highest setting and still not getting down to 40 degrees. How can I fix this?


Hello
When this happens suspect a defrost problem.To much ice on evaporator does not allow cold air circulation to fridge compartment . Make sure you can hear fan running. If good, then first suspect defrost timer.Usually located near temp knobs in fridge compartment.You can manually advance timer. (Find scewdriver slot)Turn till fridge shuts off ,then listen for teltale hissig or crackling from freezer section.That tells you the heaters work and you culprit is likely the timer.

One or both of the defrost heaters could be bad causing the condition you descibe.If you suspect
defrost heaters, the back wall of freezer compartment comes out easily and you can see everything.
Most likely an ice block.

Another culprit could be extemely dirty condenser coil (under fridge) .Easy fix; brush and vacuum.
Lastly ,check the obvious door leaks.This can overload evaporator with moisture causing excess ice to defrost which it can never catch up to.
Good luck

Jul 26, 2011 | Whirlpool 25.3 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Have a GE Model #GSL22JFPHBS side-by-side refrigerator that the freezer is staying cold but the refrigerator part is not get cold.


its either the defrost heater or defrost thermostat or the defrost timer has gone bad and the evaporator is iced over,HINT: (you will see the inside rear panel in the freezer has frost on it) and the evaporator fan cannot blow cold air over the iced up coils in which case soon the freezer will start to seem warm too,if this isnt the case then its the damper vent door located between the freezer and fridge compartment that opens and closes to throttle cold air into the fridge from the freezer,sometimes they freeze shut from condensation or the door hinge breaks and it can jam shut,also if theres excessive water dripping into the fridge from the top it can be a plugged drain hole and water blocks cold air flow,also make sure the evaporator fan beneath the evaporator coil in the freezer is operating when the units running or cold air wont be pushed into the fridge either

Jun 27, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a GE Model #TBX18NI- 18.2cuft top freezer/refrigerator, and the freezer part is working great, but the refrigerator part seems to be getting warmer and warmer. I've tried adjusting the temp...


The frig has a defrost timer which activates an electric element which cyclially defrosts the evaporator in the freezer.If either the heating element or the defrost thermostat are faulty the freezer evaporator will freeze solid not allowing cold air circulation to the rest of the frig.
At a suiteable time empty fridge contents into insulated containers and turn fridge off at powerpoint and allow to fully defrost leaving doors open.The evaporator coil in frostfree is normally located behind the rear panel of the freezer.If you do not have defrost heater it will take 3-4 hrs for complete defrost.
After defrost turn fridge back on and make sure items to be returned to freezer are free from moisture and ice and keep freezer open for minimum of time as moisture will start building up onthe evapoator.
If the fridge works ok for a couple of days and the the original problem returns the problem is with defrost thermostat or defrost heater

Apr 29, 2011 | GE 18.2 Cu. Ft. Frost-Free Top-Mount...

2 Answers

My sub zero refridgerator (freezer on bottom fridge on top) is cold on the bottom of fridge and warm on the top of the fridge. Any idea what is causing this. Items are also damp in fridge. We just vacumed...


the evaporator coil inside the freezer compartment is iced over and can't transfer cold air in thes condition,remove panel inside freezer on back side of freezer compartment and thaw it out with a hair dryer,then check the defrost heating element for continuity,if its open replace it,if its good, ,check the defrost control that powers the defrost heater

Jul 15, 2010 | Sub-Zero 611 / O Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Bosch intelligent frost free 88


We have the same and I think it is because the freezer door bounces open when we shut the fridge door. Then the freezer compartment ices up, the fan clogs up with ice and cannot blow cold air into the fridge, and the fridge gets warm and the milk goes off.
Solution? We have bought one of those child safety clips (search for fridge safety clip or lock) to hold the freezer door closed.
Simple design error. Expected better from Bosch :-(

Jan 03, 2010 | Bosch Classixx KGV28323 Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

My fridge has ice build-up in the freezer behind the inside wall. this ice is on the freezer elements, because of the buildup, the fridge is not cooling.


This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater / circuitry not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured (usually with a clip) to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located near the evaporator coil. If the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not directed into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is located.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, or place a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.

I hope this helps!

Oct 26, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling... Tried adjusting temp to max cool and nothing. Unblocked vents, still nothing... About to try pulling off back panel cover to vacuum and brush... but sure I will still get nothing......


This sounds like a problem with the defrost circuit. It is likely that the evaporator coil is clogged with ice due to the defrost heater not functioning. This can be caused by a failure of any one or more of the following components:

1) Defrost timer. Defrost timer may be "stuck" - failing to advance from a cooling cycle to a defrost cycle. May be found in the toe space of many fridges, but not all.

2) Defrost terminator. This is a thermal sensor that is secured to the refrigerant line close to the evaporator coil in / behind the freezer compartment. If this component fails to detect a rising temperature, it never allows the fridge to return to the cooling mode again.

3) Defroster Heating coil. This is a simple, relatively low wattage heater secured to or near the evaporator coil. It is powered through the defrost timer and shut off by the defrost terminator. If the coil is burned out or otherwise "open", it will not heat to melt ice buildup on the evaporator coil.

4) Fan. The fan is located near the evaporator coil. if the fan is unable move air from the freezer to the fridge, the compressor runs endlessly because cold air is not blown into the fridge compartment - where the thermostat is detecting a high temperature.

5) Condenser coil. If the condenser has a "furry jacket" it's long overdue for a cleaning. Gently vacuum lint / dust / dirt collected on the coil to increase efficiency. This is probably not the problem - but it probably needs to be done anyway.

Most of these steps will require hand tools, schematics (specific to your model), electrical test equipment, etc. Be careful to not use sharp instruments that may puncture refrigerant lines or electrical insulation. Allow the ice to defrost with the fridge powered off with the freezer door opened, and a pot of hot water inside, hair dryer directed at the coil, etc. Access to the evaporator coil is usually from the freezer compartment (back wall) and will require removal of any ice maker installed.

Oct 26, 2009 | Amana ARB1917CSR Bottom Freezer...

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