The pilot will not spark, if i hold a screwdriver next to it it will spark. Or if I go back to the pilot control box and touch it to a ground it will spark.

Its the other way around the valve controls the igniter so to speak

GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

clock must be set to correct time or it will hinder proper operation of oven

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

if its a pilot lightr that stays lit all the time,then its the thermocouple next to the pilot light thats bad and cant keep the pilot on

You probably can't any longer as they contained mercury. Whilst this never was a problem, I believe California outlawed all devices for commercial cooking that contained mercury and manufacturers had to stop fitting them. My understanding is that they are not even allowed to hold stock. GOOD NEWS! there is a modification kit that can be retro fitted that turns the unit into an automatic pilot system. It contains a grey control box and some wiring. The original flame switch and spark box are removed and this new box initiates the pilot valve/ignition. I don't have part numbers and you will need to be a really good engineer to fit this mod' kit, but it does work and is pretty reliable, just make sure it doesn't get mounted where it will get too hot.

Hi pilot ligh lit fitted new thermal cupling gas pilot lights hold down switch for over 2 / 3 minutes butgas pilot goes out

Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

all gas range ovens have a small metal box in the back upper area of the broiler burner; a gas line runs into this box as do two wires; this is a "flame control " gas valve; the way it works is: after the pilot has been lit as you turn the oven temp control a heating element in the box causes a small valve to open allowing a larger amount of gas into the oven burner to ignite the whole burner If you can only get pilot flame on high replace this valve

There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.

Relighting Your Furnace's Pilot Light
- Turn off the gas at the main valve at your utility box - Wait five to ten minutes for gas fumes to waft away - Get a long match—yes, a fireplace match, not a standard match - Set the gas valve on your furnace to "pilot" - Press the red button as you hold the match to the pilot valve - Keep pressing the red button for 30-60 seconds so the pilot can heat the thermocouple. Release the button and see if the pilot remains lit - If pilot goes out, wait five to ten minutes and repeat the process - Once the pilot stays lit, turn the main gas valve back on - If the pilot light continues to go out, call a technician, who may need to adjust or replace your thermocouple or adjust your pilot