Check and test power input may have lost a feed line or problem with circuit bound --
SOURCE: Kenmore Stove (coils)
if the timer is on hit cancel or reset then hit clock and then use up and down arrows to set them also locate the serial plate and give me the mod num will be a buch of num like 106.48062890 around the bottom drawer on the body of the range or around the oven door if the eoc or clock isnt lit go turn the breaker off for 5sec and let me know
SOURCE: stove works, oven does not
in repairing Kenmores there is a relay well 2 small black an square in the head unit of stove one for stove the other is for oven anyway they go out alot a setback to the kenmore digital controls take upper panel off where controls are look at the green board an you can see them some green some red or blue to tell if one is bad be careful an turn the stove on u will hear the relay click then try oven if you do not hear a click its bad do not i repeat do not touch it while its on
SOURCE: burner heats up really high sometimes, even on low or medium
Replace the surface element switch for that burner.
SOURCE: kenmore stove model# 665.92024100 While cooking
Check and see if the broil element has shorted to ground.
Bonus
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SOURCE: kenmore stove mod.790 9432
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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