Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
Check the drain line. Possibly tripped the float switch because the drain is clogged. Don't leave float switch out, you'll have to vacuum drain clear.
Posted on Jun 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the problem sounds like a defective capacitor its located on the condensing unit outside, also a contactor that is used can be defective also.
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
open the service panel to check for control voltage of 24volts when tstat calling, The contactor should be pulled in, if contactor is down,and contacts appear to be clean, and the unit is still not running, it is a bad compressor. to test this unplug the black wire from the compressoror at contactor,w/ power off! Turn on power if fan works normally it's a bad compressor. However if you see a swollen split cap(5 wires to a soup can looking w/ the terminal C,F,and Comp), switch it first and start at square one.
You also need to consider the high pressure switch if its cycling on off on off.
Posted on Mar 12, 2009
Ours was worse than yours. It was not frozen up, but it did need freon. The tech told us that the compressor coil (the unit in the attic) was leaking freon and that the unit would have to be replaced within a year, but adding freon dropped the temperature inside from the mid-80s to the mid-70s (on 100 degree days). It might go lower, but we don't set the thermostats below 76. We paid $80 for the service call plus another $197 for 3 lbs of freon (for our 4-ton unit). Total cost: $274. The quote to replace the system with a new 14 SEER unit is $7,000 -- but this will get us through the summer. Oh, be sure to replace your filters monthly and keep your condensor fins clean. Spray them down with a hose (even while the unit is running), make sure there are no leaves or other trash blocking them, and make sure you have 2 feet of clearance around the condensor. Putting plants or other objects right up against it will impede its operation. Good luck!
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
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