Question about Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Samsung side-by-side refrigerator

The original problem is that it ices up in the back, behind the panel in the refrigerator, causing it to slowly warm up. I have to de-ice it about every other month. But when I tried to run the self diagnosis, it only blinked once (its supposed to go for 20 sec), all the icons and numbers blinked (its supposed to have corresponding lights that tell you whats disfunctional) and then goes back to normal mode. it's not really the RS2534--I guess it's too old? I have the RS2544SL/XAA

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  • jerseygirlie Aug 06, 2008

    I don't think it is, because everything else in the whole unit works dandy, it's just that it won't defrost and I can't force a defrost....I suppose if I replace the three parts and still nothing, then i would go to the circuit board. But that's a pricey fix. I'll just sell it and buy a new one!!

  • mnishi Sep 16, 2008

    Icing up on the coils in freezer and refrig. The repair man is here is the control panel did not indicate what the problem was. It is a piece of junk. The refrig is only 4 yrs old and this is the second time I have the repair man out here.

  • Beechbabe Jan 05, 2009

    My freezer works fine temperature on fridge was high unfortunately I bought it in the UK and now live in the Caribbean (it's still under warranty) a technician said the sensor for the fan need replacing. have spoken to customer service in the UK who told me the fan wasn't working. now I'm going to purchase a lot of parts I may not require,ie fan, sensors having read dozens off bloggs I'll have to add mother board to the list. does anyone have a diagram of the circuit wiring?

  • Todd Born
    Todd Born Mar 07, 2009


  • alan665 Mar 08, 2009

    Where is the main PCB? It sounds like that's what I need. I'm in the UK, I hope I can find a supplier for the part!
    Thanks for all the posts from everybody, this is a great forum.
    Alan C

  • sbx14 May 11, 2010

    do you think the circuit board went bad on you?



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Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} A solution to refrigerator defrost cycle not working, causing frig to not cool properly (also for freezer not cooling and water dispenser and ice maker not working).

Here are my observations and solutions after 6 weeks of problems with my Samsung RS2533sw side by side refrigerator/freezer.

First problem was the refrigerator defrost cycle was not working. I first called a local technician to solve the problem. Big mistake, he didn’t know what he was talking about and it cost $60 for nothing. After calling around and not finding anyone else who would service my refrigerator, I worked on it myself. I finally diagnosed that the PCB (or PBA) main computer board had gone bad. All other refrigerator defrost parts tested ok with an ohm meter. Unplugging the refrigerator to ‘reset’ it for any length of time did not solve the problem. So I ordered a new PCB main from for $87 + SSH (part number DA41-00134A or D or F – don’t worry about the last letter, they are all the same part). The new part solved the problem.

One note about ordering parts, I choose, they were the second lowest price. They also have very good customer service, at least when I’ve dealt with them. They will send a replacement part if the part they sent you fails within 30 days (only once on electrical parts though). gets very bad reviews and for just $6 less than Sears, I wouldn’t risk the agony of poor customer service. is pricey, $150. was $20 more than Sears. All these stores are online because I could not find any stores that carry Samsung parts and it is even harder to find a repairman willing to work on Samsung refrigerators, I live in Dallas where there are 6 million people in the metro area and only 2 service men are registered with Samsung as being qualified.

I found out something very interesting before installing the new PCB main. In order to know if I could do it myself, I took apart the back compartment and took out the existing PCB main. I then reconnected it and put it all back together so at least I’d have a working freezer. I then ordered the new part. In the mean time between getting the new part and having disconnected the original main circuit board that interesting thing happened. I came out a couple of days later and found a pool of water on the floor in front of the frig. The original circuit board was activating the defrost cycle in the refrigerator and had melted a huge block of ice, now water on my floor!!! I had already ordered the part and couldn’t cancel it, so I kept the part and installed it anyways, rather than pay more postage just to get the cost of the part refunded.

So if you think you have a bad circuit board and unplugging the frig to ‘reset’ it doesn’t work, you might just want to try disconnecting all the leads to the circuit board and just stick it back together and see if that actually ‘resets’ the unit. Just the other day the freezer side completely shut down (freezer stopped cooling, water dispenser and ice maker quit). I disconnected the circuit board completely again (all 8 connections) and that fixed it. Now everything works as it should (note it may take several hours or even a day or two before everything starts to work normally). One important note before disconnecting the circuit board, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FIRST!!!

Another interesting thing I found out about the defrost heater for the frig, is that during the defrost cycle it makes a soft, low grumbling sound (I was trying to eliminate the heater as the cause of the defrost not working). I know this because while this sound was going on I disconnected the lead to the heat element the sound immediately stopped and when I reconnected the heater plug, the sound resumed. The heater plug is next to the fan plug in the upper right of the compartment in the back of the frig as you access it from inside the frig compartment.

Lastly to see if I can prevent having to disconnect the circuit board all the time (we have infrequent power outages here which I think have a lot to do with this issue), I bought a $10 surge protector just for the refrigerator. Hope that solves that problem and good luck to whoever has the same issues.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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I'm having the same issue. I took apart the refrig. compartment and deiced the evaporator (was a big block of ice). The frig works until it ices up again. I've tested the current in all the sensors and the heater. All get current through, so now I'm going to test the PBA main according to the service manual instructions. I have no electrical experience, but was able to figure out how to test all those parts with an ohm meter. My guess is that I'll have to buy a new PBA main circuit board. Some advice, shop around because I've found $72 all the way up to $198 for the same part.
I first hired a repair man, he acted like he knew the problem, but after checking his work (and paying him) I found that he was completely wrong (he said the freezer fan was not pushing air to the frig. - this is a twin cooling system and the freezer fan does not effect the frig. side.) Now I'm doing it myself cause I can't find another repair man that works on Samsung. I'll post my results after the fix.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

  • Dallas Frig Sep 14, 2012

    Dallas Frig again.

    My frig went out again.Tried unplugging to reset, did not work. Tried unplugging the PCB main and also tried putting in a new board. Did not work either. I tested several parts and all seems to test with an ohm meter. So now I was unsure what to do. Go buy a new frig? Start replacing parts that I think are the problem? Well I finally figured it out and it was only a $8 part.

    If you don't have a user manual, you might want to search for one on the internet. You can download it for free from a few sites. There are basically 3 electrical parts that can cause the coils to freeze over and stop air flow, causing the temp in the frig to rise.

    1. The "PCB Main", which controls all main electronic functions of the frig/freezer.
    2. The "Thermistor Sensor" or "Defrost Sensor", which tells the computer that ice is forming on the coils and that the defrost heater needs to kick on and melt the frost.
    3. The "Thermistor Fuse", which keeps the heater from overheating and damaging the unit. This must work for the defrost to work.

    So which is it? You can test each part at the individual connections or test at the PCB main connections. Or you can test the functions of the frig with a self diagnostic test. To run a self diagnostic test you need to simultaneously press the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons for 8 seconds. These are the top two buttons at the freezer control above the ice and water dispensers. You can also just unplug the frig and plug back in after 5 min. to run the self diagnostic test. It will automatically run it on power up.

    When I ran the test one bar lit up and blinked. It was the lower right vertical bar of the right most 8 in the display. The meaning of this vertical bar is listed in the service manuals. This particular bar mean the "Thermistor Sensor (Defrost Sensor)" is bad, even though it tested ok.

    Ok so now what to do? Tests conflict and I didn't want to just buy parts that I didn't need. I looked online at and Both get good reviews, so it came down to price. Repairclinic was a little less, so I went with them. Bought the Thermistor Sensor for less than $8 and also went ahead and bought the Thermistor Fuse also for less than $8.

    Received the parts, defrosted the block of ice on the coils and installed only the Thermistor Sensor (defrost sensor). The defrost sensor is inside the frig, back wall, behind the fan. You will have to unscrew many screws to detach the cover panel that holds the fan and defrost heater. Once you take the panel out and disconnect the heat and fan plugs in the upper right, you can access the coils, defrost sensor and thermistor fuse. The defrost sensor is on top of the coils, has a yellow wire, plugs into the back of the frig to the upper right of the coils (there are 3 plugs stacked on top of each other (it is the bottom one). The defrost sensor runs across the top of the coils with the actual sensor held in place with a plastic sleeve to the top left of the coils.

    It worked and for $8 my frig is working again. So I'm a little disappointed that this frig has had these two problems over the last 10 years, but I have learned more than I ever thought I would about refrigerators. And now that I know this much about this particular model I'm kind of scared to buy a different frig and have to figure out it's mechanics all over again.



I have the same problems as ya'll mine does fine on the freezer side but reads a high temperature on the fridge side. After reading countless blogs on the subject im going to get a fan and computer board. It seems to be a common problem with these units , by the ones I have read om the internet. One repair guy tried to stick me for 400.00 so I think I will do it myself for about a hundred bucks. or just by a better product the next time.
lbj Dallas Texas

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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I have the same problems as ya'll mine does fine on the freezer side but reads a high temperature on the fridge side.
where is the computer board and fan? how difficult to replace them?

thanks in advance

John G

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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