Help setting shutter speed and adjusting a lense properly
Hello my name is amanda and i am breaking out my camera after not using it for 2 years for a wedding and went to school for 2 years learing how to be a photographer i wanted to show my family my skills and forgot all my papers on what i have learned to become a good photographer and how to take good pictures can you help me set up the basics to use outside inside shutter speed with a macro 200mm lense i just need some refreshements and i am sure i can remember and this will be another learning expeirence :) i am not sure if it had let me enter my camera it just says minolta x-370 it is a 35mm
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Re: help setting shutter speed and adjusting a lense...
Hey little22, I would set this camera to auto mode to begin with. This cameras auto mode is actually an aperture priority mode which means you choose the aperture on the lens and the camera automatically chooses the correct shutter speed. For outside photography the morning hours and the evening hours will provide the best light because the light is softer and the subject will not be lit from above which usually cast unwanted shadows on your subject. If you do have to shoot during mid day I would put an external flash on your camera to fill in the shadow areas on the subject. Inside photography is often more challenging because even though the human eye can adjust to low light levels camera film is not so forgiving. You will either need to shoot with a very high ISO film, or you will need to use a flash. I would suggest using a flash since high ISO film is usually very grainy. If you can I would suggest bouncing the flash off of a white surface this should produce softer light and more pleasing portraits. I have included a link to a download of your camera manual incase you need it. If you have any other more specific questions just ask. I hope this helps! http://ca.konicaminolta.com/support/manuals/film-cameras/film_mf_slr/index.html Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
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M90 is a battery independent setting - it requires no battery power to function. If it won't advance until put on M90 from other settings, then either you're not allowing for proper exposure, have the settings incorrectly set (film speed, etc), or you have shutter issues. The shutter is electronically controlled on all settings except M90. In the auto setting, your lense MUST be set to the smallest aperture (biggest number). On any other setting, you can use it however you'd like. I'd suggest unloading any film, setting the shutter speed dial to 1/125 or so, opening the back and looking thru and firing the shutter. If it's not snapping open and immediately closed, theres an issue and you need to consult a repair technician either locally, through Nikon, or through KEH Camera online.
The N2000 has Program, Program Hi, Aperture-priority, and Manual exposure modes, with exposure lock and exposure compensation capabilities. It can TTL auto and manual with flash. The meter is full-aperture and center-weighted. The Program mode sets both the shutter speed and aperture for optimum exposure. You can adjust the exposure if you want to emphasize shutter speed or aperture. The Program Hi mode tries to set a higher shutter speed for action and/or long lenses. You can download a copy of the manual here if you want to know more about this camera.
The EM doesn't really have a manual shutter speed setting. It does have a Bulb setting for long exposures and a 1/90 second manual for flash, but otherwise the camera automatically sets the shutter speed to go with the currently selected aperture.
Normally you would set the aperture and let the camera set the shutter speed. You can adjust the shutter speed by pressing the exposure compensation button for +2 stops. You can also adjust the exposure by changing the ASA/ISO setting.
If you need a manual, you can download one from http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_em/nikon_em.htm
Hello...Just to warn you...you might have a fistful of problems there but I'm going to have you check a few things FIRST!! Before you try anything with new batteries, check the contacts inside the little battery chamber...look for any discoloration(might indicate some corrosion goin on). Use a pencil eraser to gently but firmly rub the contact clean. Next, put the shutter selector in the "b" position in order to manually dry-fire the unit at least 50 to 100 times without the lens attached. Cameras DO NOT like to sit idle--grease stiffens, oil evaporates or becomes thicker, springs "form" to their rest positions, etc. You need to work that camera and hopefully things will still operate--namely some electro-mechanical switches inside! Besides the meter not operating, does the shutter hold any of the slower speeds--1/60 thru 1 sec? These are battery functions--the whole metering system controls a couple of tiny magnets to give you the speeds. I can assure you of one thing--you're going to have to have the camera cleaned and adjusted(called an "overhaul") because the springs that operate the shutter have worn due to age and need to be adjusted.The two sections of shutter blades need to move inside a narrow range of speed so the actual shutter speeds will be accurate. Also, be SURE to check the lens glass CAREFULLY under a bright light--when cameras and lenses are put away for long periods, an insidious fungus just loves to attach itself to the *inside* of tasty, high quality glass elements causing weird, spider-web lines and spots. These will almost certainly cause blurred spots or shadows in pix. Additionally, check the diaphragm blades *carefully* for a wet-looking substance around the edges. That's grease that has migrated from the focusing barrel, down the metal surfaces, and stuck to the thin, metal blades. Check the movement by turning the F-stop ring on the lens--make sure the blades move very freely. DON'T FORCE THE RING if it feels slightly "gummy"--The F-stop ring should move freely and have "sharp" stops at each of the F positions. If you force things, you could easily damage the blades internally. Hope I helped you get things "motivated"<grin>. Good luck!---Rick
First, are you shooting with the flash up or an external flash connected to it? If so, the camera likely needs to synchronize at 1/200 or slower otherwise it won't be able to take a full photo. As a safety feature to prevent that, many new cameras just restrict the ability to pick a faster shutter speed.
Second, if its not related to the flash, it might be related to the mode you are using. Turn the camera off the automatic modes and put it on an all manual setting. Change the ISO to 400 or so, got outside and aim up at the day's sky, put it on manual mode and then adjust the shutter speed. Open up the aperture on your lens all the way (turn it to the smallest number). Now adjust the shutter speeds. It should be able to go past 200 now.
It sounds like your cameras need a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment). Occasionally when this has happened to me, i noticed that it was the foam on the mirror bumper that had gotten all deteriorated and gummy and as such the mirror would 'stick' to it when it flipped up. Changing the foam seals might do the trick.
Switching to M90 means that the camera is in Manual mode whereby it is not relying on the electronics at all in the camera. When your battery dies in mid shoot, you switch to M90 and you shoot manually at a fixed speed of 1/90 second. Of course your light meter won't have power, but if you meter manually or go by the 'Sunny 16' rule, you can adjust the aperture and get your shots.
Yes, moving the shutter dial to M90 should release the mirror back down, if it is stuck up.I'm assuming of course that you didn't manually set the mirror up anyway... Test it out with brand new batteries!
Try it on bulb, and open the f and check it is working properly the problem might be the computer inside the camera and there's no replacement spare parts, but yoou canfind another ody and swap the computer.
The lens must be set to F/22 on that model so the camer can set the aperture. Setting it to 22 tells the camera it is ready, so the camera can actually set the proper f/stop according to the light level. You can set the aperture yourself using the control knobs on the camera - in manual settings. In Aperture, or Shutter settings, you can set the aperture or shutter speed and the camera will set the right exposure. On Program, the camera sets both aperture and shutter.
Two possibilities : 1 ) your film was not properly loaded into the pick up spool and hence it was transported or exposed ; what you took to the lab was unexposed film. 2) the shutter is not opening and again no exposure takes place. To check this open back , set to slow speed like 8th of a second, and see if the shutter opens and closes properly. If the shutter does not open then it will have to go in, unfortunately. Cost ? If it is just an adjustment ( as I suspect is the case ) you should not pay more than $ 100.