Help setting shutter speed and adjusting a lense properly
Hello my name is amanda and i am breaking out my camera after not using it for 2 years for a wedding and went to school for 2 years learing how to be a photographer i wanted to show my family my skills and forgot all my papers on what i have learned to become a good photographer and how to take good pictures can you help me set up the basics to use outside inside shutter speed with a macro 200mm lense i just need some refreshements and i am sure i can remember and this will be another learning expeirence :) i am not sure if it had let me enter my camera it just says minolta x-370 it is a 35mm
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Re: help setting shutter speed and adjusting a lense...
Hey little22, I would set this camera to auto mode to begin with. This cameras auto mode is actually an aperture priority mode which means you choose the aperture on the lens and the camera automatically chooses the correct shutter speed. For outside photography the morning hours and the evening hours will provide the best light because the light is softer and the subject will not be lit from above which usually cast unwanted shadows on your subject. If you do have to shoot during mid day I would put an external flash on your camera to fill in the shadow areas on the subject. Inside photography is often more challenging because even though the human eye can adjust to low light levels camera film is not so forgiving. You will either need to shoot with a very high ISO film, or you will need to use a flash. I would suggest using a flash since high ISO film is usually very grainy. If you can I would suggest bouncing the flash off of a white surface this should produce softer light and more pleasing portraits. I have included a link to a download of your camera manual incase you need it. If you have any other more specific questions just ask. I hope this helps! http://ca.konicaminolta.com/support/manuals/film-cameras/film_mf_slr/index.html Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
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Are you setting the exposure properly? The pinhole lens requires a much longer exposure than usual. Try pointing the camera out the window at a daytime scene (not directly at the sun!), set the ISO at 200, and the shutter speed at 1 second. Do you get a black picture now? If you get something, adjust the exposure from there by changing the shutter speed.
That depends on the exposure mode. In any of the automatic point&shoot modes you have no control over the shutter speed, the camera sets what it thinks is the proper shutter speed. In the P (Program AE) mode you can adjust the shutter speed by pressing the +/- button. In the S (Shutter Priority) and M (Manual) modes you control the shutter speed by pressing the +/- button and then using the cursor-up/down buttons.
The aperture and shutter speed setting depends on the amount of light and on the effect you want to achieve. For any given lighting situation there are many possible aperture/shutter speed settings that are all equally valid. However, the aperture also determines the depth of field, and the shutter speed can either freeze action or allow it to blur. Only you as the photographer can decide which of those valid exposure settings best conveys your vision. As to how to determine the proper exposure, there are several possibilities. One is to use a light meter. If you don't have a separate light meter, you can use another lens and meter through it. It may not give you exactly the same field of view, but it should get you into the ballpark. Then there's the "sunny-16 rule." This says that under a bright sun, the proper exposure is f/16 with a shutter speed equivalent to 1 over the ISO. Of course this is just a starting point, and you can adjust the aperture/shutter speed to achieve the desired result. I suggest you visit your local library. They should have introductory books on photography which will explain all this in depth.
These big lenses are very slow and cannot deliver much light to your camera. Obviously, you can't open the aperture any wider than f8 as specified by the lens itself. In the old days, most inexpensive cameras were fixed focus at f8 with a shutter speed of 1/100 sec. That's a good place to start with this lens without the doubler.
If the pictures are too dark, you can't open the lens any wider so your only option is to reduce the shutter speed.
That means that motion of the shooter or the subject will be more inclined to cause blurring so you need to be shooting from a tripod with a remote shutter release and/or a delayed shutter release setting.
If the test picture is too light, I would first reduce the lens opening to the next stop, f9 or f11, then shoot another test shot. You could also increase shutter speed, or both o reduce the light reaching the camera sensor. Keep shooting test shots until you get the exposure you want.
Once you add the doubler, you compound this situation because it will further reduce the lens speed by about 2 f-stops, meaning that you have to start your tests at f-11 at 1/100 sec. or f-11 at 1/50 sec. This gives you far less flexibility to properly adjust exposure.
Further, you will have increased the magnification so much that a slight breeze or a fly landing on the lens can cause vibration and blur the picture.
Before you shoot any serious pictures, you need to experiment with this lens so that you know exactly what its capability is.
I'd say you're severely underexposing. The M mode is for manual exposure. This means you're responsible for setting the appropriate shutter speed and aperture. The aperture controls how much light passes through the lens, the shutter speed controls how long that light hits the sensor. The two of them have to be adjusted properly to suit the amount of light hitting the subject. If the lens doesn't admit enough light and/or the shutter is opened for too short an amount of time, not enough light gets to the sensor and you get a black image.
The S mode is for shutter priority. This lets you set the shutter speed and the camera automatically adjusts the lens aperture for correct exposure. However, the lens has a maximum aperture beyond which it cannot open. If the shutter speed is too fast, again not enough light gets through the lens and you get a black image.
Since you didn't specify the model of your Nikon camera, I can't tell you exactly how to adjust the shutter speed and aperture. If you can't find the procedure in your manual, please feel free to reply to this post, specifying the model.
Well, . . . that's a nice lens and I would expect someone buying a lens like this would know what it is used for and how to use it also knowing it's full manual lens. Sweet as it is it isn't worth much not working so here is what can be done, it's take a little time and an ear for sound so here goes.
Set the aperture at F5.6 and the shutter speed at the lenses fastest speed **** it and fire. Move the shutter speed to the next slowest **** and fire and again and again until you get to say 1/100 then start going back up the speeds again fire it again move to the next speed fire it and so on.
After the buyer has gone through the sequence at least three times there should be an improvement in the shutter sound if there is continue the sequence another three time. Then the ultimate test is to set the shutter for its 1 second time **** and fire it if it drags and hangs up then the grease inside has dried and there is no other way then to send the beauty to a competent repair person for a clean lube and adjust. Best of luck with that, I'm still using some old Kodak lenses from the Graflex Speed Graphic era and producing beautiful 4x5 chromes. People these days just don't understand everything has got to be digital. Okay well the very best
Set the mode dial on the top of the camera to Tv. Use the control dial on the back to change the shutter speed. The aperture value is shown on the screen at the bottom. If it is shown in red the picture will not expose correctly. Adjust the dial until the value is white.
Quite right too. When the M42 adaptor is fitted there is absolutely no exchange of information between the lens and the body: M42 lenses pre-date all of those later developments. Your camera will also be unable to stop down the lens automatically when taking the picture, most M42 lenses don't even stop down automatically when connected to an M42 body.
You need to do things the old-fashioned way. Your camera needs to be set to meter manually, shutter priority mode may also be used. In manual mode you focus the lens as normal with the aperture ring set to the lowest aperture number (i.e.aperture is wide open). You then make sure that the lens in in manual mode as well and stop down to whatever you want, if the image remains bright enough then you can adjust the precise focus using the hyperfocal principle if you like which takes advantage of the increased depth of field of a stopped down lens. In manual mode, you then tell the camera what aperture you have set (read it from the lens barrel) and set the shutter speed using the camera's light meter to guide you. If using shutter priority mode then the camera will choose the shutter speed for you. Check everything is set as you intend and press the shutter.
It all sounds long winded but is exactly how many of the world's greatest photos were taken and soon becomes second nature. You also learn far more about the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings and will be able to talk about reciprocity like you know about it!
If your camera has a scene mode that is called "high speed", "sports", or "action", you can try using that scene mode with flash.
Other than than, there is no way to adjust the shutter speed.
There are several factors working against you.
The T1 has a very weak flash (4.9 feet) and it will move the adjustments toward more light, which means slower shutter speeds.
All light weight, small cameras are more difficult to hold steady. If it has a viewfinder, using the viewfinder will help because you are holding the camera to your head; which is steadier than your arms held out in front of you.
Resting you hand on a solid object is a good solution, but not practical all the time.