Question about Dryers
Drum not turning
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Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:
Belt Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.
Click here for a belt installation diagram.
Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:
If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.
If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.
Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jun 21, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the vent where the air from the dryer leaves the house is blocked. if the air cant get out at the proper rate of speed the clothes cant dry properly. the vent needs to be cleaned out. not just the part be hind the dryer but all the way to the outside. if you need someone to do this for you, most chimney sweeps will handle this problem
Posted on Nov 26, 2007
front drum seal needs replacing pop clips at front of dryer top ..lift top remove 1 secrew each side of front from the inside..remove wires lift panel off clips ckd front panel around door area for felt seal may also have embedded plastic drum glides a felt seal also goes around bottom half
Posted on May 06, 2008
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
The heating circuitry is usually located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...
Posted on Apr 06, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks, so now how do I get the extended warranty plan to pay for it. They will not send someone out for squeaks and squeals. "
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Posted on Oct 05, 2010
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