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Electric clothes dryer

Drum not turning

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  • tkittymomma Apr 08, 2009

    Electric Kenmore dryer #11086872100. Drum trys to turn when start button is pushed, but doesn't turn. We got it turning, and it shuts itself off in seconds.Motor sounds normal. Belt and all pully assembly fairly new. I thought that I could normally hear the timer ticking, even when motor is off, but I'm not hearing it.Where should we start? An old dryer, but shouldn't be much to go bad.

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  • Master
  • 525 Answers

I attempted to locate an answer to resolve the issue for you, but you have not provided me with enough information to access my service database. Please observe the TIP below, and post me back and I will be happy to assist you further. Should you require more extensive consultation to help resolve your complaint(s), you may contact me through our premium chat service.

Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.

Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_8_1.asp#Level1_3
If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:

Belt
Motor
Door switch
Belt Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.

  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.

  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

5 Suggested Answers

  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Electric Dryer Won't Dry.

the vent where the air from the dryer leaves the house is blocked. if the air cant get out at the proper rate of speed the clothes cant dry properly. the vent needs to be cleaned out. not just the part be hind the dryer but all the way to the outside. if you need someone to do this for you, most chimney sweeps will handle this problem

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire electric dryer; model # FDEB34RGS1

front drum seal needs replacing pop clips at front of dryer top ..lift top remove 1 secrew each side of front from the inside..remove wires lift panel off clips ckd front panel around door area for felt seal may also have embedded plastic drum glides a felt seal also goes around bottom half

Posted on May 06, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer. No hot air. Drum spins

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

The heating circuitry is usually located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Nov 10, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet GEW9250PW1 electric dryer squeals

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

heatman101

Posted on Apr 06, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks, so now how do I get the extended warranty plan to pay for it. They will not send someone out for squeaks and squeals. "

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Maytag Dryer Performa: Front loading

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Hello. I know exactly what is wrong with your dryer.

If your clothes get marked or torn in your dryer, check these:

Rollers
Rear seal
Front glides
Front seal
Rollers Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set.

Rear seal Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it.

Front glides Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set.

Front seal Many dryers have a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer may get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the seal wears out, you need to replace it.

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