The limit thermostats are tripped. unplug your dryer before you do anything. there is an access panel on the back of the dryer over the heating element. some of them are resettable, they will have a red button in the middle. press them one at a time. if you hear one click, that means you found it. put the cover back on, plug it in, and check it. some of the limit switches are not resettable. they are like fuses that blow one time and have to be replaced. you will have to check them with a volt meter. they usually blow because the dryer ducting in your wall is clogged, and there is not enough airflow to take the heat away from the heating elements. the thermal limits blow to keep the dryer from catching on fire due to the high temperatures. If you dont resolve the airflow issue, it will blow the new thermal limits also. take it with you to the appliance store, along with your model number to make sure you get the proper replacement.
SOURCE: DRYER RUNS BUT, NO HEAT
They normally have a thermal cut out on the rear, behind a small cover or rubber area. Reset this by pushing it in. You have probably let it get too hot at some point by not keeping the filter cleaned often enough, or the outlet hose getting blocked. If there is not a reset, or it doesn't resolve the problem, it may be a fault with the hetaer element. These are not normally difficult to replace, just normally difficult to get to!
SOURCE: Dryer not heating
hi
The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.
Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here's how to test and replace a dryer timer:
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned.
Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type.
Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.thank you
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SOURCE: DRYER BLOWING COLD AIR-NOT HEATING UP
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
SOURCE: Dryer blowing cold air only
older homes with fuses can have to fuses on the dryer circut-1 could blow and the dryer would run without heat
SOURCE: Maytag Bravos dryer heats but does not blow air.
Maybe that was in addition..they tell us the air flow is blocked and tell us 2 clean our air duct ..but the dryer was blocked on inside..the repair man claimed the belt was off maybe he was blowing smoke..but these are the kind of people they are sending out..trying to blow off as many appointments so they can get off on time.
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