I have a double door fridge which I am using for last four years. From last week the power is ON but it is not cooling. What are the probable causes?

Possibly a blocked rain outlet. If there is water sitting in the bottom of the fridge, its likely to be the problem. Most drains are behind the rear panel in the freezer. Use hot water to defrost the drain if its full of ice. You may have another problem that has caused this. IE/ Drain heater not working or evaporator fan not working. If the fridge is still cooling properly, it will probably be just the blocked drain. make sure the door gaskets are good and that the door is closing properly as well.

Probably a fan not working or a defrost problem

Probably low on freon or blockage in sealed system

FRIDGE COILS or door walls SEEM VERY HOT:

The condenser coils do get hot. They can even be to hot to comfortably touch and this is normal.

The refrigerator should not run constantly but shut off with each defrost cycle.

Running constantly and never cycling off can indicate a cooling problem.

One thing to try is to wait till it has been running a few minutes then open the door and turn your cycling thermostat towards the off position. It should cycle off before getting to the off position on the dial.

If it does not cycle off then it's not getting cold enough to satisfy the thermostat. This is likely the reason the refrigerator runs all the time.

A thermometer in a glass of water can be used to check the temperatures in the refrigerator section.

You can check that all fans are running.

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is the compressor is over heating, probably the condenser fan motor to your compressor is bad.
It should be a little warm but not hot. they don't use heaters anymore ( some older models still use heaters) around the doors, instead they use the condenser coils to remove condensation and moister, you might want to check your condenser coils on the bottom or back of fridge to see if they need cleaning
If the condenser coils/condenser fan are all plugged up they need cleaning and/or the condenser may fail or has failed..

The ones that use an electric heater will have an "energy saver" switch that will turn it off.: God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!














Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED:

NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE.

It is probably no more expensive than a CONTROL BOARD...
POSSIBLY as cheap as a door switch...

It is sensing a DOOR ALARM... and quite reasonably
stopping ... and alarming.

You need to find the PIZZA box, poor door alignment
or FAULTY circuitry that is causing the ALARM.

ELSE
Contact the maker for support
(on your back panel... or by reading your Owners Manual).

Like (example)...
Fisher Paykel E331T Installation Instructions And User Manual Page 44

Hope this helps

Carnac the Magnificent

Occasional defrosting is needed on these units. 2 weeks isn't that bad considering the environment that it is in (your boat). Every time that you open the door, moist air enters the fridge, and the moisture eventually collects on the freezer plate, and freezes. Putting foods into the freezer that are uncovered also contribute to this a great deal, as do putting in warm / hot foods before giving chance to cool down.

These freezers do not have automatic defrosters. The target environment typically has limited power available. Automatic defrosters would easily double the power requirements.

You can also check the door seals on your fridge as well. If they are not sealing properly, they can also let in humid air which then causes moisture to collect on freezer plate.

Generaly the control board controls everything sometimes you have a bad thermister GE has a help line I beleive it costs 20.00 bucks but you will need a meter and know how to use it and they willl talk you thru the repair .

You need to check the limit thermostat for the defrost in the back of the refrig section. I replace it with a standard bi-metal type from a Frigidaire to keep the problem from reoccuring.

This is almost a word for word common problem. On frost free fridge freezers of this type all cooling is generated through the freezer side and is merely forced into the fridge side through airflow. Therefore if you have a problem with the fridge you have a problem with the freezer section. The most likely cause is that the coil is frozen up. We would always suggest defrosting unit overnight in case it was simply a door left ajar being the cause of the fault. If the unit then pulls the fridge temp down and it was not the door ajar then you probably have a defrost problem (heater or defrost thermostat, or defrost timer). If it fails to pull the fridge temp down on restarting then it could be the fan or part of the defrost circuit or even possible the cooling circuit. The normal outcome after defrosting is that the temp will drop in the fridge due to air circulation improved, which will probably remain cool for 2-3 weeks until the coil becomes frozen again. On either result I would contact an engineer on the 2nd failure occurrs so that the engineer can establish the exact cause. Hope this helps.

Pull the compressor side cover off. Pry off the square box. This is your compressor start relay. Check for continuity. It's probably blown. If ok check for voltage to the compressor.