I have a 9 year old Kenmore Electronic 90 series washer. It's operating fine but when it gets to the spin cycle I get an "OL" in the agitate time window. I did some troubleshooting and discovered one of the fittings (for the screw) on the "lid closed" sensor had cracked so basically instead of being held tight in position by two screws it's only held by one. I've unsecured and rotated the control panel out of position now I just have to get to the part. I am assuming the top of the washer will come off but I can't see any screws or tabs that will allow me to pull it up so I can get to the part. I'm sure there is an easy way but I sure don't see it.
The lid switch mount broke, held in place by two screws in my Kenmore washer (Model 110.22332100), causing the machine to stop during the rinse cycle. The machine would not spin to drain the water. I used sticky-back metal duct tape to hold the lid switch in place, allowing me to use the machine while I order the lid switch (Part #3949238) and the do-it-yourself repair manual (Part # LIT4314044) from Sears Parts online (Phone order at 866-873-7666).
*****THIS REMOVES THE SAFTEY FEATURE OF THE LID SWITCH**** If you are able to remove the top portion of the washing machine, simply remove the switch from its mount, remove the 2 wires from the switch and connect them together. I would utilize a wire nut and electrical tape then secure the newly made connection where it wont be vibrated or jarred around too awefully bad. I just had to do this to my seiries 90 washer and it worked, as all the device is looking for is return voltage from the switch being closed (the 2 wires making contact). but again... *****THIS REMOVES THE SAFTEY FEATURE OF THE LID SWITCH****
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.
Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.
Sounds like the lid switch is not working.It is a safety feature to prevent the washer from spinning if the lid is open.If you look a the lid,you will see a small point that sticks out,The switch is locate under the rim,right where that point would contact with lid closed.
I've had the same problem...you can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.