Re: Extend cable from control module to bass module?
Alex, I know you posted this question over a year ago, but my husband has the same question and we cannot find an answer ANYWHERE! Did you ever figure out how to cut & splice the wire b/t the control module & the base module? Please share if you did!
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Use a test light at the contactor to see if the switch and wiring are good.If you see an input from the switch up to the contactor,make sure the connections are all clean on the control input terminals at the contactor.(The contactor is the device that changes the polarity of 12V to the winch to extend or retract-essentially a double throw double pole relay).
Wikipedia says: An Ethernet extender (also network extender or LAN extender) is any device used to extend an Ethernet or network segment beyond its inherent distance limitation which is approximately 100 metres (330 ft) for most common forms of twisted pair Ethernet. These devices employ a variety of transmission technologies and physical media (wireless, copper wire, fiber-optic cable, coaxial cable).
One benefit of using a terminal strip to connect the
thermocouple wires is signal integrity. Since the thermocouple has a
temperature probe located on the end of the wires, a signal must be sent
from the probe to the thermocouple. The equipment and machinery will
work intermittently, if the signal strength is not maintained. For
example, if the probe senses the flame on the furnace, it sends a signal
to the thermocouple. Once the flame goes out, a signal is sent to the
thermocouple, which shuts off the gas.
The terminal strips have a covering, or shield, to protect
the thermocouple wires. You can open the strip and gain access to two
metals for testing. You must cut off the insulation surrounding each
metal wire and insert them into a terminal strip to make the proper
connection. The cover protects those bare wires from dirt and debris.
The cover can be removed when troubleshooting the thermocouple and
wiring. Without the terminal strip, you would have to cut off each
wire's insulation to test the signal strength and voltage between the
probe and the thermocouple.
A thermocouple sensor that has to carry signals over a long
distance requires a thermocouple transmitter to strengthen the signal.
Using terminal strips makes it easier to connect a transmitter to the
thermocouple device. The terminal strips also lengthen the thermocouple
wires. If you need to extend the distance from the probe to the
thermocouple, you can add additional wires and splice them with terminal
strips to increase the distance. It is like adding an extension cord to
an outlet, so you can extend the distance between the outlet and the
Another benefit of using a terminal strip is that the strip
enables a better electrical connection between the two thermocouple
wires. Without a terminal strip, you would have to introduce signal
compensation metals for the thermocouple sensor to get an accurate
temperature reading between the two metals. Since the terminal strip
uses the same metals found in the thermocouple wires, your electrical
connection will not lose voltage. A decrease in voltage can trip the
To extend speaker wire you need to splice it. The proper way to do this is with bu tt connectors. You will also need a crimper, but a cheap set from the hardware store will do the job just fine. Make sure all components are off and unplugged when doing this. It is also a good idea to splice 1 conductor at a time so that you don't accidently cross the wires and end up shorting your system. Once your wires are spliced through, it is also a good idea to re-insulate your connections with electrical tape.
It is NOT clear what you are trying to do... HOWEVER if you are attempting to extend a bass potentiometer remotely, you CANNOT use the four wire flat telephone line as it is unshielded and you will pick up hum.
If you can, loosen the ties that hold the wires for the button and see if they will reach the new location. If not, splice in a bit of wire to extend the reach. I recommend soldering the connection, but you could use crimp connectors with a larger wire. Make sure the wire you splice is a little bigger than the factory wiring.
If you are referring to the subwoofer speaker wires, normally, speaker wires of any length are available from
most electronic stores and/or audio/video stores. Even those shops that
do car audio installations would have them in their inventory. The only
requirement/specification you would need is the power output of your system and the required length. The longer the distance, the bigger the wires the better.
Hope this be of initial
help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need
additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using
Fuses and Breakers Attach the red or positive wire to a 5 amp circuit breaker. If the unit is connected directly to the boat’s battery, include a 2 amp in-line fuse. (In-line fuses are available at most marine supply stores.) The power cable includes a smaller "shield" wire. Connect this to a good ground.
Extending the Power Cable If you need to extend the power wiring by more than 10 feet, use a larger wire size. This will allow the wires to deliver the correct voltage in spite of the longer wire distance. For runs of 20 to 35 feet, use #14 AWG cable. If you extend the power wiring, be sure all electrical connections are solid and durable. Soldering is the best way to make these connections. Insulate all connections using heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape. You may also use crimp connectors or a terminal strip, but be sure to use good-quality marine-grade parts.