Question about JVC AV-32920 32" TV

1 Answer

Bad PS component - C921

Is there a schematic for the main board for this TV around anywhere? I have no power and a visual inspection shows C921 burned out. I am looking to get the value and type of capacitor to replace this part.

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  • croupe Jun 20, 2008

    Awesome - perfect.

  • evilprimogen Nov 07, 2008

    I have the same problem with the same TV but I am having a lot of trouble locating a .0015uf 500v capacitor. Does anybody know where I can get one of these?

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Here is a picture with the part in question.
Bad PS component - C921 - 23a68dd.jpg

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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I have a Samsung 46 LN46C630K1F CCFL TV with a backlight that doesn't come on. How can I tell whether it is the inverter board or the power supply board that is bad?


Check and replace the damaged components at its back light inverter circuit. What else to look for? If you wish to get more details visit the site linked here. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ Sometimes the back light inverter board might need replacement.

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My LG Plasma TV will not power on.


- You still have an problem on the power supply, most likely one or more other capacitor that are bad but can only be verfied with a capacitor checker. They may not show any signs of damage or bulging but still internally damaged.
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As soon as it turns on it shuts off!!! Help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I believe that this could be that the main component has failed.
First check around for any broken pieces or burned places.
If so then there is your problem.
If not then the component that holds all the data in this machine may be dead.

Oct 22, 2012 | Computers & Internet

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TV was making a clicking sound like a relay was trying to click open everytime you would turn it on. It would take up to several minutes for the tv to actually turn on. Now it won't even turn on. And the...


I had the same problem and finally figured out what was wrong and fixed it. If the TV is making clicking sound, 95% the problem is the main power supply board (PSB). The easy fix is to replace the new PSB which can be ordered online from $80 to $100 (model # PSPF 501A01A), or you can buy it straight from Samsung for $129.95. If you are a little handy in electronic, knowing how to solder and troubleshoot electronic components, you can fixed it for a little cost around $30. It was $1.77+ shipping for my case, I guess I'm lucky.

I have read and research a lot of info on the internet forums and here is what I learned about this clicking problem. The clicking noise you hear when turning on the TV is the sound coming from the switching relay. It's the power protection circuit which senses a short somewhere in the system and trying to shut it down. The short can also be from other boards connecting to the main PSB, or within the PSB itself. Of course I'm not certified or TV repair man, but if it is something minor and can be fixed by a handyman, I'll try it first. If it is beyond the basic, a major problem or you have no idea about electronic at all, have it serviced at a certified TV repair shop.

For my case, here are the steps I took to troubleshoot it:

1. Unplug all 4 connectors on the main PSB. Use a Voltmeter to check the voltage on pin 10 of CN804-1 (read the print on the board where it said SB 5V), this is the standby 5V supply. If the voltage is low, not present, or spike on and off, the issue is the power supply. If the TV is totally dead after the clicking stage, this stand by voltage should be 0V or spiking up and down. For my case, the Power thermistor is dead.

2. Visual Inspection: Visually inspect the PSB for any damaged component, especially all the ESR capacitors. Look in the back of the PSB to see if all the solder traces are ok, no crack or black stain causing from burned components. If you find any damaged component, replace it.

3. If everything look good on the main PSB, then the problem is likely on somewhere else, may be the Y-board. At this stage, you should consult with a certified TV repair person.

Here is what happened to me:

Symptom:
-First stage: When turn on the TV, it was clicking for less than one minute then back to normal.
-Second stage: After 3 days, the clicking last longer to about 4 minutes then back to normal.
-Third stage: After 1 week, the power button's blue light is flashing when the TV is off. But "might" turn on after clicking for about 8-10 minutes.
-Fourth stage: No flashing blue light, no response. The TV is totally DEAD!

Solution:
-Visually inspected the PSB. Everything look good except I found an NTC Power Thermistor (next to the switching relay) was bad. It was burned and opened. The number on it is SCK 206.

-I checked the stand by voltage at pin 10 of CN804-1. I have no voltage there but a spiked voltage up and down on the meter (no reading). Definitely the problem is the PSB.

-All solder traces and capacitors look good, so I decided to replace the burned power thermistor. The big problem is to find a new part online because there is no match for SCK 206, SCK 206 is not the part number and no one on the online store knows what substitute part for SCK 206.

After a few days searching for the part number, I was lucky to talked to a technical support from a Amethem company which designed the NTC power thermistor and he quickly recognized the Samsung SCK 206. He gave me a substitute part number of a much better quality power thermistor. The part number is SL227R010 (7Ohms, 10A).

When you have the correct part number, you can find it everywhere. The cost was $1.77 each, and I got it from Digikey.com

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=sl227r010&x=0&y=0

I solder the new component back to the main PSB. My TV came back to life. Hope it help for your case.

_1325.jpg

_1323.jpg

_1324.jpg

Jan 15, 2011 | Samsung HP-S5053 Television

1 Answer

I have a samsung tv hp-s5053, when you push the power button, you hear it click then the power button flashes blue 3-4 times ans it sound like it cuts off, but nothing ever comes on the screen...Does...


I had the same problem and finally figured out what was wrong and fixed it. If the TV is making clicking sound, 95% the problem is the main power supply board (PSB). The easy fix is to replace the new PSB which can be ordered online from $80 to $100 (model # PSPF 501A01A), or you can buy it straight from Samsung for $129.95. If you are a little handy in electronic, knowing how to solder and troubleshoot electronic components, you can fixed it for a little cost around $30. It was $1.77+ shipping for my case, I guess I'm lucky.

I have read and research a lot of info on the internet forums and here is what I learned about this clicking problem. The clicking noise you hear when turning on the TV is the sound coming from the switching relay. It's the power protection circuit which senses a short somewhere in the system and trying to shut it down. The short can also be from other boards connecting to the main PSB, or within the PSB itself. Of course I'm not certified or TV repair man, but if it is something minor and can be fixed by a handyman, I'll try it first. If it is beyond the basic, a major problem or you have no idea about electronic at all, have it serviced at a certified TV repair shop.

For my case, here are the steps I took to troubleshoot it:

1. Unplug all 4 connectors on the main PSB. Use a Voltmeter to check the voltage on pin 10 of CN804-1 (read the print on the board where it said SB 5V), this is the standby 5V supply. If the voltage is low, not present, or spike on and off, the issue is the power supply. If the TV is totally dead after the clicking stage, this stand by voltage should be 0V or spiking up and down. For my case, the Power thermistor is dead.

2. Visual Inspection: Visually inspect the PSB for any damaged component, especially all the ESR capacitors. Look in the back of the PSB to see if all the solder traces are ok, no crack or black stain causing from burned components. If you find any damaged component, replace it.

3. If everything look good on the main PSB, then the problem is likely on somewhere else, may be the Y-board. At this stage, you should consult with a certified TV repair person.

Here is what happened to me:

Symptom:
-First stage: When turn on the TV, it was clicking for less than one minute then back to normal.
-Second stage: After 3 days, the clicking last longer to about 4 minutes then back to normal.
-Third stage: After 1 week, the power button's blue light is flashing when the TV is off. But "might" turn on after clicking for about 8-10 minutes.
-Fourth stage: No flashing blue light, no response. The TV is totally DEAD!

Solution:
-Visually inspected the PSB. Everything look good except I found an NTC Power Thermistor (next to the switching relay) was bad. It was burned and opened. The number on it is SCK 206.

-I checked the stand by voltage at pin 10 of CN804-1. I have no voltage there but a spiked voltage up and down on the meter (no reading). Definitely the problem is the PSB.

-All solder traces and capacitors look good, so I decided to replace the burned power thermistor. The big problem is to find a new part online because there is no match for SCK 206, SCK 206 is not the part number and no one on the online store knows what substitute part for SCK 206.

After a few days searching for the part number, I was lucky to talked to a technical support from a Amethem company which designed the NTC power thermistor and he quickly recognized the Samsung SCK 206. He gave me a substitute part number of a much better quality power thermistor. The part number is SL227R010 (7Ohms, 10A).

When you have the correct part number, you can find it everywhere. The cost was $1.77 each, and I got it from Digikey.com

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=sl227r010&x=0&y=0

I solder the new component back to the main PSB. My TV came back to life. Hope it help for your case.

patpsc_0.jpg

patpsc_1.jpg

patpsc_2.jpg

Dec 03, 2010 | Samsung HP-S5053 Television

1 Answer

Tv turns on and off by itself when plugged in


It sounds like the power supply is bad. It is also possible that the main board is defective. The TV is most likely doing the following:
1. Trying to turn itself on
2. Unable to sustain the correct voltages
3. Puts itself in protection to avoid damaging the components by turning itself off
4. Repeat step 1

You can do a visual inspection for any bad capacitors that look bubbly first but would need the service manual and a voltmeter before finding out which part is needed. It is most likely the power supply not giving the correct voltages but the main board that is putting the TV into protect. The voltages need to be checked in order to see which one needs to be fixed.

Oct 05, 2009 | Samsung PCN5425R 54" Rear Projection...

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1 Answer

Have a 30" SHARP Aquos LC30HV2U that has a bad power supply. Nothing happens when I turn on the LCD - though it is getting power confirmed by green light going on but nothing on LCD. Visual inspection


You did try the CLEAR button on front of the box?
One possible idea is the cables going the box to the TV. ( might be bad )

If your sure about the problem, you can get your Service Manual here:
http://www.nodevice.com/manual/newmans/upsharp/LC30HV2UPDF/get53718.html

This with have all the schematic, diagrams, part number, and test points you need.

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1 Answer

No Audio no video on an Element FLX3710


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1 Answer

TV will not switch on


this can be caused from numerous reasons, I will specift only the most common ones which doesn't require professional skills to deal with. The "easy" initial technical troubleshooting that can be performed, without a schematic and without a service manual, is using your DMM to make voltage readings and test components, also do a careful visual inspection and make not of any faulty or cracked solder connections around the high heat producing components and other pertinent details. Given the symptoms you reported, it should be obvious that the areas of initial troubleshooting interest in the television circuitry are the main PS, B+ regulation, and B+ distribution, standby B+ , the HV and HOT area.... also pay attention to the and flyback derived B+ circuitry and components.

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