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I am trying to replace the main seal on my front load washer....what do i need to know

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  • heppster63 Jun 20, 2008

    it is a Kenmore HE2 mod 11046462501

  • heppster63 Jun 24, 2008

    it is helpful but i wasnt there to take the old boot how do i get enough room to attach the boot inside this is on a Kenmore front loader

  • heppster63 Jun 24, 2008

    got it fixed thanks now my door locked for some reason and how do i get it opened? is there a reset



2 Answers

Great thanks got it done and no leaks!!!

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

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Basically, once you have your replacement boot (availible at local parts stores or from
the manufactures web site on line), You can follow these steps:
1 - Remove the front clamp. (a silver peice of wire with a spring at the botom) A small flat head screwdriver will let you pull it off.
2 - You will have a clamp on a hose that comes from the dispenser to the boot on some models that you will have to disconnect. (sueeze the cmlamp and side the hose off)
3 - There is a second clamp on the tub side itself. Remove it by using a short phillips head screw driver to unscrew it.

4 - remove the boot

5 - Reverse the procedure making sure to line the new boot up at the top. (there is a arrow that needs to be lined up on the tub and the boot).

Taking the lower front panel off can give you a bit more room to work. You can take it off by removing the 3 1/4" screws at it's bottom.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

  • Toby Norton
    Toby Norton Jun 24, 2008

    We always would just replace the boot from the front opening. If you place your replacement boot just over the white part (tub) that you can see inside and line up the arrows, the replacment can be worked on all of the way around. Next take the wider clamp and work it around the boot where it meets the tub (there is a notched area it will sit in) make sure your screw to tighten it is in about the 2-3 o'clock position. Tighten it down with a phillips screw driver. Attach the hose to the boot (some models only) by squeezing the clamp with pliers or channel locks and slipping it on. Work the fill tube (clear plastic about 10-11 o'clock position) into the hole provided for it in the boot. Lastly the boot has a channel molded into the rubber that can be worked on to your front panel. Lastly take the small wire clamp and put a flathead screw driver in one of the holes near the spring. Using your hand or a rounded tool (needle nose pliers is what I usually use) work the rest of the clamp on by sctreching it slightly and putting it into the rubber channel as you go along.

    If you want to get a little more room in the front, you can pull the machine forward and then tilt the top back (make sure you have enough hose on the drain and fill hoses to do this). Put something underneath the washer to support it while it's leaning. This will let the tub rest on the back of the washer and give you a little more room.

    The only way to get more room is to take the front panel off. To do so... well here goes. Unplug the unit. Remove the 3 1/4" screws from the rear of the top lid. Slide the lid towards the rear of the unit about and inch, then lift it up and out of the way. Next remove the console (the front panel with all of the buttons). To do so, you must remove the 1/4" screws holding it down, Remove the dispenser drawer (slide it forward and push on the button towards the rear of the drawer so you can completely pull it out). Next, remove the #20 torx screws underneath that the drawer was convering. Now open the door. Look in the door frame towards the console. There is a phillips screw there on some models. Now there are clips on the right and left hand side of the console holding it in. Reach inside the unit towards the left front side. You should see the white plastic clip. Push the clip towards the outside of the unit. Now work the top of the console of by working a small flat head screwdriver along across the top. Once you get about 3/4 across the console will come off. Follow the wires coming out of the console to the CCU (Plastic box will all of the wires going to it). Unplug it from the CCU and set it aside. Underneath where the console sat, You will find a shiny peice of metal running across the whole front of the washer. Remove the 1/4" screws from the top and front of it. Set it to the side. Now opening the door again, on the right hand side where the door latch is, you will find more #20 torx screws holding the door latch in. Remove these. Make sure you have the lower front panel off (3 1/4" screws along the bottom of the panel). You will find 2 1/4" screws on the bottom of the main front panel that you will remove. Now, going in from the top or bottom), there are 2 1/4" screws on the inside where the front panel meets the side panel (about 1/2 way between the top and bottom) Remove these. Lastly, On the top of the main front panel there are your last 2 1/4" screws on the right and left hand sides. Loosen (but do not remove) these screws. The front panel is almost ready to come off. Due to the awkwardness of the weight of door and front panel, I would recommend getting a helper now. It's not heavy, the weight is just not evenly distributed and you don't want to scratch your machine. Lift up on the front panel so it can come off the 2 1/4" screws you loosened and pull off. You now have full access to the front of the machine.

    As you can see by the last set of instructions, it is very difficult and time consuming to get more room to work in the front. This is why I've only replaced them by just using the cramped space of the opening for the door.

    If you are still; running into problems, drop me a response back.

  • Toby Norton
    Toby Norton Jun 25, 2008

    Removing power from the unit for 2 1/2 minutes can unlock the unit. Even just starting and stoping cycles will do it. But as far as manual release, remove the lower front panel (3 1/4" screws along the bottom). Now, reach up inside towards the door lock assembly. On the bottom of the assembly, there is a ring. Pull on the ring to manually release the door.



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