What would cause smart hot water board to burn or melt after 3 wks of installation

Reset the heater

It sounds like there is too much pressure in the hot water pipes. You can try adjusting the pressure. Do it a little at a time to see how much hot water is coming out. The only other thing I can think of is that there is a large delay between the switch and the water flow. meaning you will need to stop the water a while before you actually want the water to stop flowing.

Elisa Jed ' http://www.mccreeryhvac.com

1) Copy following links for whirlpool energy smart resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Energy-Smart-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

2) Control box is probably bad.
There are 2 types of control boxes for older-style energy smart water heaters.
You will need model number and serial number from label on side of tank to order from Whirlpool.

3) This older-type energy smart water heater is probably discontinued by AO-Smith, American, State, Craftmaster, Reliance water heater group that makes Whirlpool and Kenmore water heaters.
New generation energy smart offers interface with home automation and/or non-existent smart grid.
Older energy smart only offered potential interface with non-existent smart grid.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I run out of hot water after one short shower. Lights looks normal. I have adjusted it every way I can, still the 50 gal water heater runs out after one shower. I have check the elements and are fine.

My guess is that you may have or have had a spider web or other debris in burner tube that caused flame to back up, thus burning some wiring but, have someone experienced check it and clean it. The wiring if not burned too bad may be able to be repaired/spliced.

The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing

2 green flashes is 'High Water Temp.'
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Typical energy smart manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf

3 flashes is Temperature Sensor failure.
4 flashes is Upper element
5 flashes is Lower element

Troubleshoot section says:
1) Make sure access doors and insulation are installed.
2) Check elements for resistance of 5-25 ohms (if element has a short in center of element, it might not trip breaker)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
3) replace element and reset control system.
Buy ordinary 4500 Watt element from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

4) I also suspect the self-diagnostic control box.
Manual says: Repair parts may be ordered through your plumber,
local distributor, home improvement center, or by calling
1-877-817-6750.
You need serial number, product number and model number from label on side of tank.

You'll obviously have to determine where leak is coming from, then we can decide how to stop it. If it's the pressure relief valve outside, and it's only a small drip, that is normal, but you can try lifting arm on relief valve and cleaning it out a little to see if that helps clean it out. BE CAREFUL when water is hot, that you don't burn yourself, thus better to try it when cooled down. If it's dripping, or running out too much, it may be that water is too hot, or water pressure is too high as well, so check that as well. Usually smart to install a pressure regulator in line from hose to trailer. If your running off on board pump, not very likely that pressure is too high as they are usually set at 40-50 psi, which shouldn't cause that. If water doesn't feel hotter than before, then best to replace pressure relief valve, if that's where dripping (excessive) is coming from.

Probably a bad solenoid in the gas valve. Higher voltage of a new thermocouple keeps it open longer but it still fails over a period of time. Look into a new gas valve for the water heater.

It may be bad thermostat terminals of the water heater, or, alternatively, the very top heating element is in need of replacement. See this handy diagnostic article for more info:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Home_Improvement_Zone_Heating_Systems_Water_Heaters_Cold_Water_Still_Released_Despite_Water_Heater.htm

Hope this helps.
Brad