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Our Gas Craft 3 burner gas heater seems to be leaking gas.

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Have it checked by a service technician because this can be a dangerous situation.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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Following removal of filters from Rinnai gas heater (2 years old), I vacuumed both filter and back of gas heater but it still smells ilke gas when filters putr back on and heater tunred on.

Although you cleaned the filter and vacuumed the outside of the heater, there is probably a dust and dirt build up inside the heater, that also needs to be cleaned out. A dust build up can clog the burners so that they do not burn cleanly and thereby produce a gas odor, Be sure you turn the heater OFF and let it cool completely, before removing the heater's cabinet. A Shop Vac with a brush attachment on the hose and a can of compressed air with a straw nozzle (like you clean your computer with) works well in performing the cleaning process. Be sure to not only clean the burners, also clean the pilot and the pilot assembly.

If after completing the above, you still get a gas odor (if it doesn't smell like rotten eggs, it's not gas), it would be wise to perform a leak check on all the fittings. With that said, it's normal to get a whiff of gas when the burner lights and turns OFF, But, it should dissipate quickly.

Hope this helps you further troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

May 07, 2011 | Rinnai Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a slight propane smell in the house, but the furnace is still running. Upon inspection no leaks are detected, but the bottom flame on the burner does not seem to be in trim. Could rust or an...

The simple answer to your question regarding the inefficient burner is Yes. Also, be sure you're not running out of gas. That can also cause the odor. Also, a partial blockage in the furnace's exhaust vent piping can cause it.

Hope this helps you track it down. At the same time, unless you're a certified gas technician, don't undertake something you're not familiar with, as far as making a repair is concerned.

Feb 09, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Our Rinnai C85 tankless water heater is used for radiant heating. During the heating season it will occasionally throw a "12" code and cut out. It will reset and run for several days. Technician...

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Ok your code 12 is a gas issue, or this listed below

Check that the gas is turned on at the water heater and gas meter. Check for obstructions in the flue outlet.
Ensure gas line, meter, and/or regulator is sized properly. Ensure gas type and pressure is correct. Bleed all air from gas lines. Ensure proper Rinnai venting material was installed. Ensure condensation collar was installed properly. Ensure vent length is within limits.
Verify dip switches are set properly. Ensure appliance is properly grounded. Disconnect keypad. Disconnect EZConnect or MSA controls to isolate the problem. Check power supply for loose connections.
Check power supply for proper voltage and voltage drops. Ensure flame rod wire is connected. Remove flame rod and check for carbon build-up; clean with sand paper or emery
cloth. Disconnect and reconnect all wiring harnesses on unit and PC board. Check all components for electrical short. Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits. Remove burner plate and inspect burner surface for condensation or debris.

your manometer levals should be around 3-4

if you are running other gas appliances, like pool heater

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question's. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Jan 04, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Our Whirpool Gas water heater is leaking from one of the top water supply lines and the pilot went out. we tried to light it back on and it does not. before we can replace the leak should we continue to...

first repair the leak then remove the burner assembaly at the end of the pilot tube you will find a small orfice were the gas comes out for the pilot remove that and be sure it is free from debri and not clogged replace it when the burner assembaly is back in place and reconnected try to light the pilot if it still wont light as you are trying to light the pilot tap the side of the gas control valve (somewhat hard) if it then lights you know you have a bad gas valve if you are getting gas through the pilot orfice (not air if you have recently disconected the gas supply) and it seems to be blowing to hard you will need to replace the pilot assembaly at the end of the orfice as the small sheild also helps make the gas air mixture

Aug 25, 2010 | Whirlpool Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Hi. I have an old LPG space heater, unknown make. (30-40 years old?) Has been working well up to last week. The problem is that while the fan comes on there is no gas flow or ignition. There is gas in the...

Check your regulator, this is an often overlooked culprit.
NO that Gap you have is meant to be that so that the spark will "Jump" that distance and draw enough current to make the spark hot enough and big enough to ignite the gas. You must check, if there is gas to the pilot light, and if so, why isn't the igniter igniting it, can it be ignited with an external source? if so, does it continue to run, if so, then it is most likely the igniter, if NOT then it is the gas delivery, or a safety feature activated, or a faulty controller.,
If you don't see a good blue spark, then either your igniter is broken, or the ignition circuit is, or perhaps a safety sensor, is inhibiting disabling it, or perhaps it could be the thermostat too. I have included a website below, that will step by step you through troubleshooting your system.
Due to the possible safety ramifications however really one should get a professional in to attend to matters such as this, as any mistakes can be dire. Be safe.

Jun 23, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer


Hi, this is whats called delayed ignition. I have burned the eye brows and lashes off my face many times because of this. This is really something a repairman should look at, as raw gas is not igniting completely when the unit shuts off. In other words you have raw gas in the box that is igniting when the heater shuts down. This normally happens on a unit with a standing pilot.You may have a leak in the pilot tube if it is a standing pilot that ignites. You can do this, shut the unit down and check for any signs of leaks and clean all of the burners out. They will build up with rust flakes and cause the gas in the burners not to fire and shut off until last. Clean everything up really well and make sure panels are secure. Try it and if it continues, call someone out. This can be dangerous to you and your family. You can also call out your local gas company and say you smell gas when you use the heater. They will come out free of charge and then when they are looking it over, you can say what you just told me. They can take care of it. Even though you may not smell gas, they don't no this and will get rolling on this fast as this sounds like a gas leak!! This will be your best bet as it could very well be a gas leak. Keep me posted,

Feb 21, 2010 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

2 Answers

Heater work poorly

Hi, what seems to be going on here is several things need to be checked. When a heater starts to slow down lets say, I would make sure 1st of all that you have a clean return air filter in the system. 2nd, make sure that the indoor blower motor is clean and running up to speed. Ruud and Rheem units collect dust very fast and the filter must be maintained. If this is all ok, depending on the age of you're unit, and if it is natural gas or propane, you're heat exchanger may be cracked or plugged with soot. I woul'd say that you need to call out your local gas company as they will come out free of charge if you tell them you think you smell gas and your heater is acting up. What they will do is come and make sure you have no leak and inspect it heating section. I would say you are in need of service. Burners may be plugged also. I would call out the gas company and they will tell you if you need a sevice call or hopefully they will find and make a repair rather then you calling out a Tech. Im not saying you have a gas leak but this will get them rolling on it and a place to start. If you are inclined to make these checks on you're own, look in the burner section when the unitis on and see if all burners are on with a nice blue row of flames. Look it over and see if the blower motor is clean. This is all very important. Please get back to me and keep me posted. Best of luck,

Jan 10, 2010 | Ruud UAMB Air Conditioner

1 Answer

We have a whirlpool hotwater heater model #fg1404t3nv and we can not get the pilot light to stay lit. help please we need hot water and do not have the money to replace it

Fear not, unless you havewater leaking from the tank you won't have to worry with replacing it.

Heres how your heaters ignition system works.

The Pilot is lit, and the flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to the gas valve.The gas valve then sends gas to the burners and the burnes ignite.

If the gas valve does not recieve signal from the sensor it will not come on and it will shut off all gas to the pilot, and burners to prevent raw gas from dumping into your home.

If your system has a thermocouple, 99% change the problem is the thermocouple.

When I service a customers unit, I automatically replace the thermocouple because they are so notoirus for going bad.

You can buy one at Lowes for less than 10 bucks.

To locate the thermocouple, go to the gas valve, fint the small copper tube (about as thick as a pencil lead) and follow it to the pilot. The sensor will be slightly larger in diameter and about 2 to 3 inches long.

You can try cleaning the sensor with steel wool, but usully they just need to be replaced.

To replace it, turn off the gas, unscrew the nut holding the tube in the gas valve, and disconnect the sensor from the ignitor/pilot assembly. Make sure your new T-couple is long enough, as the come in different lengths, you can simply coil the extra length up out of the way near the gas valve.

Install the new one as you removed the old one.

Relight pilot, be sure to hold the button down long enough, and enjoy your hot shower!

If you have any other problems, let me know, and I will be glad to help you.

Please don't forget to rate this solution.

Dec 26, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Burning smell from AC Unit

"Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But remember, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose. Unusual odors could indicate a serious problem and should not be ignored. 

We will go through each of the five categories and list the possible causes and things to check.

1. Electrical odor - Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure such as the bearings seizing up, the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. 
Sometimes loose electrical connections cause wires or plastic relays to overheat causing electrical odors. 

It is possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. 

If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service. 

2. Burning odor - This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke. Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. 

It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger. 

If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service.

3. Gas odor - First of all, if you really smell gas and suspect a gas leak, you should open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 

Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season and it smell just like gas. 

If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. Use your nose. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. 

Gas odor is the one that causes the most fear. People think of gas explosions or carbon-monoxide poisoning. Well, gas explosions are very rare and carbon-monoxide for the most part is odorless. 

Having said that though, don't take a gas odor lightly. If you can't locate the source of the odor and you are worried you have a gas leak, remember, open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 

4. Oil odor - Oil odors are usually caused by one of two things. An oil leak/drip or an oil burner that is not working properly. 

The oil leak is usually easy to spot. Just look for oil. Check the burner itself, the oil tank, filter and oil line. Sometimes it is just a matter of tightening a fitting. If there are no signs of an oil leak then it is most likely a burner problem. 

This can be caused by many things, too many to list. It could be a minor adjustment to the burner to a faulty or blocked chimney. From a bad fuel pump to a plugged oil nozzle. Listen for any unusual rumbling or banging sounds or smoke or soot while the burner is running. If you notice any of these things and/or you have an oil odor, you should call for service immediately. 

One other common problem today is that new houses are insulated so well and are built so tight that they run out of combustion air, causing odor problems. In this case it is just a matter of bringing in a fresh air for the burner. Call your local Heating Company to assist in a proper diagnosis. 

5. Damp and musty odor - This is more common in the air conditioning mode. Sometimes attic units or very damp basements have this problem. Check for air leaks in the return ducts. Check for water damage to the ducts or air handler itself. Possibly consider having your ducts cleaned. Run a dehumidifier and see if the odor goes away. 

But this odor problem is almost never due to a problem with your equipment. 


Final Tips:

Keep in mind that almost all heating systems cause an odor the first time they are fired-up. And the first few times at the beginning of each heating season. Brand new furnaces are coated with oil to keep the heat exchangers from rusting. This burns off, creating a bad odor - even smoke. But it usually only lasts for about 20 minutes. Opening the windows usually solves the problem. And the first few times the backup heat on a heat pump kicks on, it smells like an electrical smell. This might last for a few days but isn't that bad. If you are worried, call for service. 

Remember to check for a clean air filter and that your vents are opened. Check to see if the fan is working which mean your motor hasn't burned-up. 

Check for air leaks in damp areas, oil stains or rumbling sounds, strong gas odors - these all indicate problems. Do not ignore them. 

Hope this helps, remember - these are just rough guidelines and not all possible situations are covered."

Jul 28, 2008 | Sharp CV-P09FX Air Conditioner

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