How do you attach the cutting wheel to a bit. I assume I need to use the pointed threaded bit but I can't get the wheel to thread on the bit. The bit appears to big for the wheel.
The instructions were quite vague with regards to installing a cut-off wheel. If I am understanding correctly, the threaded-point arbor is not the correct one for the cut-off wheels (?) and I am to use an arbor that has a removal screw on it ??? The instructions were quite vague with regards to installing a cut-off wheel. If I am understanding correctly, the threaded-point arbor is not the correct one for the cut-off wheels (?) and I am to use an arbor that has a removal screw on it ???
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Do not use the threaded bit. You need a mandrel that has a tiny screw on the top. Take the screw out and thread it onto the cutting wheel and then screw it back on. My book says its mandrel #401.
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Take a good look in your manual and see how to clean and oil you machine. Now, take a new paint 2" brush(from Dollar store) and really brush that thread, when you get a little tail slowly pull it while turning the handwheel slowly is the key. Use tweezers if you need too. Keep going until you have no more thread, remove bobbin and cut the thread attached to the machine.
Besides installing a brand new needle (which you've already done), unthread the top thread. (Cut the thread below the spool, raise the presser foot, and pull the thread DOWN from the thread tail end--NEVER PULL thread UP!)
ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot and rethread the top thread from the beginning. Verify the thread path is correct. Set the upper tension to the midway point and then tweak it so both threads meet in the middle of the fabric.
This may sound traumatic, but there is no easy way to pin point where the tie-up is located. So proceed as follows.
Cut all the threads as they come off the antennas.
Open the front cover and pull-out all the threads by pulling them straight toward the back. If they do not come easily, try moving the hand wheel back and forth by a 1/4 revolution .. this is like a rocking motion. If still not budging, start cutting back the threads and removing them in sections until all the threads are cleared. If this step is still challenging; check that there is no residual fabric or threads still wrapped around the loopers or other part/s of the serger. If so cut them out bit by bit until everything below is cleared.
Great. Now check for threads wrapped and/or jammed anywhere above.
Since the overlocker jammed, it is possible that the needles were bent. This will continue to cause issues in stitch formation. So just to make sure; change the needle/s. Make sure that the correct needle type is being used. Every overlocker is engineered to be used with a specific needle type. The needle type will be specified in the manual and will also appear on the needle package. If the needle types are not the same, do not use those needles.
Re-thread the overlocker and stitch test on a piece of fabric before pressing down on the foot control.
This should get the overlocker back on track and you back to overlocking.
There may be a bit of thread stuck in the bobbin or somewhere under the machine. Turn the machine sideways and look with a flashlight. Then turn the wheel a couple times and look again...Good Luck...xo
Assuming your bobbin is threaded correctly. Try to pull your top thread thru the needle a bit longer & suggest you turn your hand wheel towards you till the needle just poked thru the fabric, then only you start sewing.
There are a number of possible reasons for this, but, assuming the thread hasn't actually broken (!), it may well be that the upper thread sensor flag has come off the check spring - this is something I see fairly regularly and is frequently the result of people pulling the upper thread 'backwards' out of the machine a bit too quickly, rather than cutting it off at the spool and drawing it through the machine in the correct direction. It's a bit fiddly and very difficult to explain how to check this, without taking all the covers off. However .... if you take the head cover off (single screw) and look carefully at the bottom of the metal takeup lever cover you will see a large slotted screw with a spring wound around it - this is the check spring. The end of the check spring pokes-out behind the takeup lever cover and the thread goes through a loop in its end when you thread the machine up. Thread the machine up as far as the takeup lever, take hold of both ends of the thread and gently raise it - you should see the check spring move upwards. Now, look very carefully at the part of the spring between the big coil around the screw and the loop where the thread passes-through ... there should be a black plastic part attached from the other side of the takeup mechanism (you cant get at this without taking the front cover off !). If it's not attached, you can very very carefully wiggle the spring and sensor flag back so that the spring sits in the slotted part of the sensor flag (either that or take it to your Bernina service agent !). If the sensor appears to be attached, it could also be the optical sensor which is attached to the front cover just above the reverse switch - sometimes this gets full of fluff or I have seen a couple with manufacturing faults where the sensor flag gets caught in the optical sensor circuit board ... whatever the case, this is really a job for the service agent. Good Luck
flap discs can be used on a grinder the same as grinding disc and cut off wheels . You may need a centre adaptor as some flap discs are larger in the centre hole
Drill the keyhole and stick a slide hammer (dent removal tool) with a threaded bit. Once threaded bit is secured in the hole you just drilled, pull the slide hammer action (like pulling a dent out) so the key mechanism can come off and release the lock hold on the serrated teeth on the rod of the club.
If that's just too much to be able to happen, another solution could be found in Home Depot. Purchase a Dremel high speed tool with a cutting disc for metal. Cut through the rod and you're home free.
You did not say it jammed from thread or just stopped working.
If it is thread, then you will need to carefully use embroidery scissors with a sharp point or a razor blade to cut at the lump of threads and carefully pull them out with your tweezers till you clear the mess. Use your vacuum to get all bits out of there, being careful and not hitting the loopers. You can knock them out of alignment with thread jams and such.
If it just stopped and you cannot turn the wheel, then it needs a trip to the repair shop, either your dealer or to a sew and vac repair where they know how to service sergers.
You need a # 402 bit. This comes with a screw on top that detaches and goes through the hole in the cutting wheel (very small hole). Then just re-attach it to the bit and you're in business. Depending on the particular cut-off wheel you're using, the wheel can be extremely fragile. Even though it will cut steel, it is brittle. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using a cut-off wheel particularly, they will inevitably shatter and go flying!
Probably best to go to a local hobby store, buy a few bits for $10, and pick the owners brain about the tool.
The instructions were quite vague with regards to installing a cut-off wheel. If I am understanding correctly, the threaded-point arbor is not the correct one for the cut-off wheels (?) and I am to use an arbor that has a removal screw on it ???
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