Question about Viking VGSC306-4B Gas Kitchen Range

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Electric spark for gas range burner is non stop

The electric spark for gas range burner continues sparking non-stop, regardless of the state of the burners or burner controls. The problem started by itself suddenly, with no apparent cause or provocation. Problems occurs when all burners are turned off, and when any burner is lit. Burners light properly when the knob is turned to enable flow of gas, yet sparking continues non-stop. I have to disconnect the power to get it to stop.

Model number of the stove is Viking VGSC3064BSS.

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  • 5 more comments 
  • elunow Jun 19, 2008

    I checked the switches. They are all clean. There didn't seem to be any problem with any of them being stuck.

  • Anonymous May 17, 2009

    what???

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Rear burner on Brown Rv Gas range will not go out when control is off

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Rear burner on Brown Rv Gas range will not go out when control is off

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    Rear burner on Brown Rv Gas range will not go out when control is off

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    I have a hybrid frigidaire 1yr old. The electric Burner turns on to low by itself. Beeps constantly. Can this be fixed?

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    no spark turning any knob. Gas OK

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  • Viking Master
  • 5,568 Answers

Turning any knob starts the spark via a switch behind each which should disengage when the (any) knob is turn further.
One of your switches is stuck.

I think you should be able to remove the range-top for access and find the offending switch.
It is probably gummy from a spill and is no longer in solid contact with the cam that operates it.

A solvent/lubricant such as WD-40 sprayed on the plunger of the switch once you can see it and operating the knob back and forth should free it up.

It might be wise to turn off the gas supply while tinkering with the range - blow your house away and the range won't matter. :-(

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison Jun 21, 2008

    One of the switches must have failed, otherwise the circuit (probably a high-ratio transformer) would not be getting voltage to operate.



    I don't know how accessible the wiring is that connects the individual controls to the high voltage circuit but you would need a multimeter to check the switches. Digital meters are quite inexpensive and easy to use. These are available from a number of sources; auto parts stores (more expensive there) or if you are in the US, from Radio Shack and one that would help you find the problem will cost <$20 US. I just saw them yesterday at a tool store, Harbor Freight, for $3.00. They aren't exactly precision but more is rarely needed.



    Of course, the AC should be disconnected (which it probably is already) and either the switch terminals or the other end of the leads will show continuity when measured.

    If you are lucky, the remote ends of the leads should be plugged into a board and can be isolated by pulling (or removing) them one at a time.

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