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Mac audio mac attack 600, 6 channel amp / subwoofer filter

Hello.
Thankyou for yor kind offer.
I am meant to be setting this up for a friend.
When he told me I thought he just wanted a speaker wired up.
However when I came to look at the job I mfound this box was involved.
I believe all he basically wants to do, is to use this amp to drive a subwoof box. from his kenwood head unit (I have the details for this)
My querries are as follows:-
The ratings of the cables and power supply required.
Whether two or more of the channels can be "bridged", as we are only driving a single speaker, and how.
What is the use of the "hi" inputs with 3 pin miniture plugs,
as opposed to the expected "phono" inputs.
I shall take a look at the unit gain and come back with more specific info.

Best regards

pete

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  • james  boyone
    james boyone May 11, 2010

    Hello , need more info u can call me at 559-3015942

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Hi dougal,
The power cable size depends on how many watts the amp is rated at (realistic) RMS with all channels driven at 20 to 20K.
Buy the largest cable you can afford as you never know when you may add another amp,
Though with 6 channels it should handle almost any reasonable sound system configuration, such as, front, rear fill and the sub/s.
400 watts and less will do fine on 8 gauge wire. 500 watts or more should be using 4 gauge, with a distribution block. The ground should be the same size as the power wire, and solidly connected to BARE metal,
keep it as short as practical.
Use good quality terminal connectors throughout.

The (HI) inputs simply means, using the speaker output from the head unit, as opposed to the RCA connectors.When purchasing the RCA cables don't be fooled by all the fancy high dollar one's, unless cosmetics are important to you.
$5.00 cables will sound just as good as the $25.00 ones. ( The marketing dept. hates that truth. )

You can bridge any two channels as long as they are the matching right and left pair.
Look at the amp, usually the rears are the most powerful and have a low frequency crossover.
The woofer impedance and whether it is single or dual voice coil will determine the speaker wiring.

If the woofer is a single voice coil, 4 ohms...
The positive terminal on the speaker goes to left positive, on the amps left channel terminal. The negative speaker terminal goes to the right channel negative on the amp.

If the woofer has two 4 Ohm voice coils,
Parallel the terminals on the speaker.
Pos. to Pos. and Neg. to Neg. and then wire as explained above it will present a 2 Ohm load to the amplifier, any good amp can handle that. If in doubt check the specs.
I hope i was of some help.
Regards, S.

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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Would need to kow what kind of car you have to be able to tell you but a quick way to find out is to take a AA battery and hook up the neg and positive wire from the speaker to it to see which speaker it is. If you are trying to figure out which wires from the unit are for which speakers, then take a speaker's (one that you know the location of in the vehicle) wires and hook them up to a set of wires from the unit and adjust the fade (front, back, left, right) to figure out which position those wires are for. If this doesn't help any let me know what kind of car you have and I'll see if I can help further.

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I'm having trouble visualizing exactly how you have it set up. You said that the amps are "grounded through the amp" but I think you meant they're grounded through the cap. I don't think that's the cause of your problem, but the cap and amplifiers really should be grounded separately. There's no reason to run the grounds to the cap instead of directly to the chassis. It seems more likely to me that the problem is related to your speaker wiring. I'm not clear on how your speakers are wired either; I can see that you've kept the speakers on factory wiring, and connected the amp to the factory wires. But I don't understand how that translates to having only one set of wires for both speaker sets. We'll leave the tweeters out of it; if they're wired through a crossover, then they don't have a serious effect on the impedance. However, any way you look at it, you've got two 4-ohm speakers wired together to a bridged amplifier. Most 2-channel amps aren't designed to be connected to load impedance under 4 ohms when they're in bridged mode. If your speakers are wired in parallel, then the load impedance at the amp is 2 ohms. Having too low a load impedance is the most common cause of amplifier overheating. My advice is to re-wire the speakers so that one 5x7 and one tweeter (together with a crossover) is connected to each amplifier channel. Don't run the amp in bridged mode. Even in this configuration, I'd be amazed if your 5x7" speakers are really rated to handle 310 watts RMS, which is the per-channel power rating of your amp in 2-channel, 4-ohm mode. It sounds to me like you've got too big of an amp for the job.

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Hi, if you still need a photocopy of instructions email me mail@srands.co.uk

If you want instructions in brief this involves POWER CONNECTIONS, PHONO LEAD & SPEAKER CONNECTIONS:

POWER (At the same time when routing these wires, I would connect the PHONO LEADS from the car cd player to the amp, if your car cd player only has 1 preout (1red & 1 white) then you will need two phono splitters, a female to 2 males. Phono leads carry the unamplified sound from cd player to the amp):
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SPEAKER:
Each speaker has a - negative & + positive, these must connected correctly. The amp has 4 channel, 2 channel labeled as front, 2 channels labeled as rear. Using speaker wire, connect cable from amp to speakers. Note: Ensure the speakers being connected only receive sound from the amp (Not cd player as well, as would damage players or at the very least impair sound)
The amp has a feature called bridgeable this means a sub 8" or 10" sub can be powered by 'bridging' two channels. For example there are 2 ways to bridge power a Sub on the NIKKAI EAPA450:
i) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel RL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel RR.
OR
ii) Sub speaker wire positive + to channel FL and Sub speaker wire negative - to channel FR.

Switches:
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~ X-over mode adjust hi/lo frequencies, only work if both x-over switches are on! Then adjust switch frequency knob, until it sounds right.
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NOTE:
You will need patience! many hand tools and parts such as: Wiring kit, fuse holder 20a/30a, Phono leads, speaker cable, Fork/ring connectors, wire strippers, wire cutters, set of screw drivers, also ueful to have zip ties to tdy excess cable and 'P' cable clips to tidy speaker wire to shelf, etc.

OK

Any more questions just email me mail@srands.co.uk

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1 Answer

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Hello jayPRICAN,

You do not say what kind of speakers you are running on the amp and that can affect how you troubleshoot the problem.

Most often, a wiring problem such as a faulty ground or short in the speaker wires will cause such a problem. Here are the most likely causes for the amp to go into protection.

1) When a speaker wire is shorted or grounded.
2) Overheated.
3) When a ground wire of the receiver/head unit or the amp itself is not properly grounded.
4) When the amp itself malfunctions and a DC is sent to the speaker output.

First check your power, ground and remote turn-on wires. Then disconnect the inputs and speaker wires. If the amp does not power up normally with all the other wires disconnected, the amp itself is defective. If it does power up with everything else disconnected, reconnect the wires one at a time to determine where the problem is located.

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It sounds like the wiring between the cdplayer and the dash has come loose. When the wires are not making proper connections some of the speakers or functions of the radio cut on and off.

This is just my first thought and the easiest thing to fix. You will have to remove the cd player from the dash. After which you will want to check the wiring. Chances are your cd player has a harness if it's an aftermarket cd player installed in your car. If it does there will be two sets of wires to double check.

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1) legacy products are highly overrated and i have never seen one put out the power it claims
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what size fuse or fuses does your amp use? what size wire did you install with (power and ground)? did you connect direct to battery or did you connect to a fuse block or similar? did you use a stiffening capacitor? does it sound like it is clipping when you turn it up or is it just distorted? what kind of box are you using for the speakers (ported, vented, sealed, bandpass)?

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