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Re: maytag Front load epic z - code f-01
Once you change the CCU, that is where the fault codes are stored. They will go away. To change the CCU, remove the screws on the top of the washer (usually #20 torx or 1/4 screws) Push the lid slightly back and lift off. Depending on the model of Epic z you have the CCU will be on the top, center towards the rear or on the top, right hand side towards the front. It will be the plastic box where all of the wires are going. However, before changng the CCU, unplug the unit for 2 1/2 minutes. Does the problem return? While you have the top open, check all of your connections going to your CCU. Are any loose? Also try following the black hose on the top, right hand side towards the rear. It goes to your pressure switch (round cylinder 2 1/2 - 3" wide). Give it a firm tap with something insulated (the handle of your screw driver for instance). If the switch gets stuck it can cause a false f01 eror code.
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Any luck? the certified Maytag repair company looked at mine and quoted $445. for the repair. it is 15 months old so of course the warranty is obsolete.
The solution is a new CCU panel and Temperature sensor.
Hi, The F01 fault code is indicating an EEPROM error or a PUMP DRIVER error. A communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM on board the CCU occurred.
Possible causes of an EEPROM error: A power glitch may have caused this error. Unplug the power cord for 3 minutes then reconnect power. Possible causes of PUMP DRIVER error: The pump driver fails to activate. Replace the the CCU board. Most likely the CCU board will need to be replaced. Thank you !!
when my front loader was giving me the f-01 there were three diffrent times one was water pressure 2 was soap wat to suddy 3 not enough power which is the most common another was off balance and load to heavy funny they all have the same err code #
I think you've actually got an uprated control board.
Modern designs allow for less water usage - most in as you say about 3"
Water level is determined in 2 ways #1 pressure - A pressure switch is used with an inverted container low down in the water. As level rises, pressure builds untill the switch opens and the water shuts off.
#2 Time - The valve is only allowed to open for a preset time (to prevent flooding)
If the first board was faulty, the pressure switch probably was being ignored, so was overfilling.
Older models also used more water per wash.
Shutting off after 10 minutes on a quick wash? - if it performs a full cycle in this time, it's working normally. As I said - just updated.
Let me know if there are any defects or faults , otherwise, it seems to be "modernised" by using the new board.
Unplug the unit for 2 1/2 minutes. Does the problem return? Open the top, check all of your connections going to your CCU. Are any loose? Also try following the black hose on the top, right hand side towards the rear. It goes to your pressure switch (round cylinder 2 1/2 - 3" wide). Give it a firm tap with something insulated (the handle of your screw driver for instance). If the switch gets stuck it can cause a false f01 eror code.