Question about Amana ARS8265B Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer section is cold but refrigerator section will not cool because of ice build up on evaporator coils in freezer and air can not flow to refrigerator side. I manually defrosted it two weeks ago but frost again built up on coils. I feel I have either a bad defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost limit switch. Which one of these items is usually broken? How do I figure this out? Thanks Peter

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Find defrost timer normally located behind the cover plate for the fresh food temperature thermostat. It will have a one way adjustable screw head on it. Turn the screw slowly until you hear a click (this would normally be where the defrost would begin) leave in this position for an hour or until you hear compressor kick back on. If you have water in catch pan of refrigerator you have bad timer. Otherwise you have bad heater or defrost thermostat. To check heater and thermostat I would go to parts site on Internet and type in model no. And see if they have diagnosis videos on this or similar ref. Otherwise buy the heaters and thermostat remove shelves, ice maker etc. To get to the liner of ref. Remove it and you can then remove and replace the heater and thermo. Be very careful as the cooling fins are sharp as razors.

Posted on Aug 06, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Refridgerator not cool enough.

Our Kenmore bottom freezer (made by Amana) did the same thing -- technician replaced both the defrost timer and and the defrost thermostat -- that seems to have fixed problem.

Posted on Jun 24, 2007

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Amana SCD22JL

It sounds as though you have a refigeration problem if there is no cold on the coil, however you hav sad that you have changed the sensor which would bring in the fan when cold enough. As far as airflow I have been doing this a while on American cabinets and never really consider airflow as a primary failure. If the fan is running and the vents are clear that is normally enough, these fans are not high powered and the cabinets have a large volume. What you could try is leaving the door open whilst observing the coil and see if it frosts right through the coil without the fan running. If it does then it should pull down to temp. Hope this helps, unfortunately without seeing things its hard to give a definitive answer.

Posted on Aug 17, 2007

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Auot defrost problem?

cleaning the condensor is nothing to do with evaporator freezing up. keep an eye on it - you may have a problem with the defrost cycle. problem can also happen if freezer door has been left open

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: I have an Amana bottom

Typically with this model it is either the timer or the defrost thermostat.

This is behind the back wall of the freezer. It is attached in series with the element. It is designed to open when the heater gets hot enough. The part is about the size of a stack of 6 quarters and typically has a blue end coating on one end. The other end is silver in colour and should be clipped on the black coloured heating element. It will have 2 wires coming out of the blue end.

If this part is defective then it will have to be replaced. by cutting a splicing a new one in. Be sure to unplug the fridge before replacing it.

There are 3 main components that can give issues; the timer, the thermostat and the heater. All 3 should be checked to confirm the fault. NOTE the timer contacts can be burned out as they arc under normal operation.

If you have a multimeter then you can check if the heater circuit has 0 or close to 0 resistance when there is frost on the back wall of the freezer. if it is then the timer is bad.

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: amana abb222zde bottom freezer not defrosting

email me at b4829@yahoo.com ref amana

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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1 Answer

My whirpool freezer is ok but fridge not cool the fan is ok too


Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Apr 03, 2015 | Whirpool Refrigerators

3 Answers

Freezer foods thawed, still cold


then the thermostat must have gone bad.

did u replace it?

Jun 19, 2008 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Why does my whirlpool refrigerator make clicking noise at vicinity of cold control knob ?


Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

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1 Answer

Freezer goes -9 and fridge goes to 40 I have set it to 0 for freezer and 34 for fridge it changes on its own


Depends on type of refrigerator freezer you have, but you need to realize that the evaporator (cooling coils) are in the freezer, and the cold air produced in the freezer is then circulated via an evaporator fan into the refrigerator section. The thermostat the cycles the compressor motor is located in the refrigerator, and the compressor will run until the temperature reaches the desired level in the refrigerator. On most units, the freezer temperature setting simply regulates how much cold air is circulated into the refrigerator.

What you are describing is that the freezer is working fine (almost too good), but the air is not properly getting to the refrigerator area. Several things can be causing restricted airflow, including a faulty evaporator fan, icing of the evaporator coils because of a malfunction in the automatic defrost system. Check to see if there is frost or ice build up in the back or bottom of the freezer. The proper temperatures should be around 0 F for the freezer and 38-40 degrees F for the refrigerator.

Feb 25, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why samsung Refrigerator Freezer is cold but Refrigerator is warm -Model srs622dss


check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.

Feb 23, 2015 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer back panel ice up, refg. not cooling


What you probably didn't notice was that the freezer has not been going through it's normal defrost cycle. Because of this un-noticed event going on, there has been frost building up on the evaporator coils that doesn't belong there. After this frost continues to build up over the course of a few days to a week or so, now you are going to start to notice the effects.

Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy.you need to do a continuity test on the defrost thermostat this is the one piece that i find mainly is the reason out of most of the repairs on fridgerators that i do also while testing defrost thermostat also test the defrost heater and assure that the fan is working as well lastly you would replace the defrost timer if all else checked out in proper working order if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped Thanks again Rick p.s to access the defrost cycle parts you have to remove the rear panel in your freezer

Jan 15, 2011 | Amana ARS2661B Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The freezer is working good, but the refrigerator does not cool. there was frost built up in the back of the freezer, Defrosted it, but it did not help. ,


What you probably didn't notice was that the freezer has not been going through it's normal defrost cycle. Because of this un-noticed event going on, there has been frost building up on the evaporator coils that doesn't belong there. After this frost continues to build up over the course of a few days to a week or so, now you are going to start to notice the effects.

Here is what's happening when you have a malfunction in the defrost system.
  • Air cannot circulate from the freezer(where the cold happens basically) to the fresh food section.
  • Your refrigerator will run constantly to try to cool the fresh food section. This will develop a new set of problems with your refrigerator. More on that later....
  • Excess frost builds up within the coils inside the freezer. This is what is blocking the air flow to the fresh food section
  • Usually you will notice the icemaker will stop making ice. Poor air flow and not quite cold enough temperatures in the freezer cause this
  • Water will not come through the dispenser on the door. Cold air settles, the water resovoir will freeze.
  • Compressor may overheat and shut off. This is when you hear, click, click, click. Not good
  • Ice Cream in the Freezer will start to get soft. That's really not that bad. lol
What can you do about this. Let me explain the defrost system in general so you get an understanding of what is going on.
The coils inside the freezer are the only part inside the whole refrigerator that "get cold". They need to stay free from excess frost build up so that air can pass through the coils and reach the refrigerator section of your refrigerator. Every eight hours or so, depending on the type of defrost timer or control you have, the compressor and fans will shut off and the machine will go into defrost mode. When the refrigerator is in defrost there is a heater that is tied into the evaporator coils inside the freezer that comes on. This heater is behind the rear panel inside the freezer where the evaporator coils are located. It melts the frost that has accumulated over the course of time. After about thirty minutes the machine comes out of defrost and goes back to normal operation.
Now the air can continue to pass through the coils and keep the freezer frozen and the refrigerator cool and everybody is happy. Therefore you should do continuity test on the tstat the heater and check the fan as well the last thing that you would check would be the defrost timer all three of the first parts can be found behind the back panel in the freezer If you have any further questions please remember when this chat is concluded to rank how this opinion has helped Thanks again Rick p.s we love 4 thumbs for answering free chats lol also if there is ice built up in the back of your freezer defrost it with a hair dryer Thanks again Rick

Dec 28, 2010 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Fridge and Freezer loosing their cold


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

May 23, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

Dec 06, 2008 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

1 Answer

Fridge does not cool


lo1972

Sounds like ice built up on the evaporator coils inside the freezer. thus hindering air flow to the refridgerator section. Is there ice build up in the freezer? This is assuming the temperature control didn't get changed inadverttily.

Hope this helps
handiman518

Jan 16, 2008 | Zanussi ZEBF250W Bottom Freezer...

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