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Thermostat wires were disconected from the gas valve and don't know the proper terminals to reattach the 2 ends. Can you please help me. Thanks..

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Haven't seen a cozy befor but if a robert shaw valve which are pretty commen in gas appliance's there are three terminals marked tp, th and th/tp the tp terminal is for thermopile and the th is for yor thermostat or on/off switch and even if not a robetshaw valve pretty sure it should have some marking or indication for these connections i have also found detailed descriptions of some valves on the net so you could try there if i haven't helped, but hopefully i have and sorry if i haven't

Posted on Nov 19, 2010

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Having problems with 35,000BTU Williams Wall Heater. Have changed thermostats twice using the 986-1R. Heater not coming on when dips down to lower temp and not shutting off when on just keeps runnin


Wall furnaces operate on millivolts of electricity, about 750 mv which is only 3/4 of 1 volt, 1000 mv being 1 volt.

The electricity is created by a pilot generator that is in your pilot assembly, the pilot generator has a hot end in the pilot flame and a cold end that is not in the flame, this temperature differential is how the pilot generator creates the 750 mv or 3/4 volt.
As this is not much voltage, it is very easily disrupted by a patina on the connections, wires and terminals, I would clean them all shiny new, this often will fix it, if not try jumping the 2 thermostat terminals that the thermostat wires are connected to, this bypasses the thermostat and wiring so if it runs you know why it was not before. The pilot generator likely needs to be replaced, you can test the gas valve with a AAA battery with a wire taped on each end, then wire the battery to the gas valves terminals that the pilot generators wired to, this simulates a good pilot generator.

If the system operates via battery do not use it this way it is not safe as no pilot safety exists in case the flame blows out! gas will still flow due to the battery powering the heaters valve, it is for testing only, if it works by battery then the pilot generators bad.

Jan 07, 2015 | Williams Wall Heaters: 35,000 Btu/hr...

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Is there a way to rebuild a frigidaire gas oven control valve Model # from stove is FGFB75DSE


Gas control valve's are NEVER REBUILT, just replaced. It is a safety issue.

Please rate my help for Fixya, it helps to improve my standing on the site. Thanks

Jan 18, 2012 | Frigidaire Ovens

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I have an Atwood G6A-8E water heater. It stopped working last year so I took it to Camping Wprld. Their R&I'd the tube and igniter. He cleaned to tube and adjusted the igniter. The water heater...


Have you verified that you have 12 Volts DC to gas valve when it is trying to ignite? If you have the little thermal cut-off ( looks like a small diode ) inside plastic sleeve going to terminal on thermostat, remove it and connect female end on that brown wire directly to thermostat terminal and see if it lights.If it does, get a new thermal cut-off. It's a safety device so don"t go without it. It shuts off gas to valve if there is a flame up.

Aug 14, 2011 | RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP

1 Answer

Pilot light is lit Gas valve is in on position .When I turn on remote switch I'm getting no gas there is a blue wire hang lose nere the valve assembly Model no GDV5000L


Is it possible, that the "Blue Wire" is actually a Black wire & has a push-on, female, spade connector on the end? If so, it is one of the wires to the remote's receiver, to the millivolt valve terminal on the gas control valve. In which case, get a flashlight, open the control panel door and look at the control valve. You should see a line of 3 spade connectors on the side of the valve. One is marked TH, another TP and the 3rd is market TPH. The remote receiver wires (2 of them) connect to the TH & the TPH terminals.

After you check all of that. Change ALL the batteries in the hand held remote control and the remote's receiver box in teh control panel area of the firebox. Depending on what brand remote control you have, there could be up to 6 batteries, total. Generally, 2 AAA batteries and 4 AA Batteries. Make sure that you change them one at time and they are facing the proper position. Just one turned the wrong way, will cause the remote control not to work.

Hope all of this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.

Jun 15, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 14, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

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I have a 1992 bounder mh ,6a6e atwood water heater.I recently replaced the coach batteries and main battery.My circuit board went bad,replaced along with eco and thermostat.My gas valve was rusty and...


First check thermal cut-off that is connected between incoming power wire and thermostat terminal. (located inside little clear plastic sleeve) Easiest way to do that is to remove it from the circuit temporarily. Just pull it off thermostat terminal, pull it apart from other end, and just connect female spade from incoming power wire directly to thermostat terminal. Then see if water heater ignites. If it does, and all works well, get new thermal cut-off. That cut-off is a safety feature in case of flame up at burner, it will shut off gas supply. It is not reset-able, just works once then needs to be replaced.
If that doesn't cure it, take a 12v test light, or a multimeter, and test for power at gas valve, when water heater is trying to ignite, or at ECO terminal where red wire runs from left ECO terminal to gas valve. If power is getting to gas valve, and you don't hear or feel it click, make sure ground connection is sufficient as well. If you have 10.5-13.5 volts to gas valve, and it's not opening and ground is good, then it's faulty and should be replaced. If it is clicking, (opening) but no gas coming through, you may have a plugged orifice on gas valve, provided you have cleaned burner tube of any spider webs or debris previously. If no voltage from red wire, start back tracking with meter or test light to other terminal on ECO, then to terminals on thermostat as well. You'll see how feed wire (short jumper) goes from thermostat, over to ECO. Remember, you will have to hold test light or meter probe at connection and have someone turn on switch to get a reading, which will only appear when it's trying to ignite. Let me know what you find.

Dec 05, 2010 | RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

1 Answer

Floor heater won't light


At the gas valve on the furnace, jump the two connections where the thermostat wires attach to, I think TH and TP may be marked on terminals. If it lights, you have bad wire(s) going to thermostat. If it still refuses to light, you may be looking at a new gas valve.

Dec 02, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do i install a zone valve in my hot water heater. I need the schematic from boiler controller to the valve. if I tie the first floor to one valve , the rooms (2) will be on the last section before the...


The two zones have seperate supply and returns, correct? If not zoning will not be possible without piping the system in that way. Assuming the piping is correct, for two zones, you will need two zone valves, one cut into each zone. The wiring will vary, but for a 3 wire zone valve, (Taco), power from the transfomer goes through the thermostat, into terminal 1 on the Zone Valve, Terminal 2 on the zone valve goes back to the transformer, (24v common), and also to one "T" terminal on the aquastat (boiler control), and Terminal 3 on the zone valve goes to the other "T" terminal on the aquastat.

For a Honeywell, or other motorized Zone Valve, power again goes from the transformer, through the thermostat and into one side of the motor contacts/wires (depending on brand), the other motor wire goes back to the transformer, (24v common) Then the two end switch contact/wires go back to the T T terminals on the aquastat.

If you are using motorized zone valves, and only 2 of them, the transformer in the aquastat will be strong enough to power them.

Hope this helps

Jul 04, 2009 | Kenmore 75944 Gas Dryer

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