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I have a 58ss080-bc that sparks and ignites the pilot but the gas valve never opens to light the burner. It just keeps on sparking

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: ignite prob

You've got two different things going on.  First - the type of igniter used on your model does wear.  I have had mine for over 10 years and have gone through 3 such igniters - and I grill nearly 3 times per week over the 25 week "grilling" season where I live. Spring for the $12 part and just replace it. The other issue sounds like a clogged cross-over system.  I would remove the burners, including the cross-over bar on the far left side that connects them.  Clean the exterior with a stiff steel/brass brush and the inside with a bottle brush.  Make sure all the holes are clear to allow gas to flow easily - use a wooden tooth-pick to do this to make sure you don't change the size of the holes! Put that baby back together and I think you'll find you'll be good as new!
These grills are great.  Now, if Weber could only fix the uneven heat problem between the left and right side I'd REALLY be happy!  (I wish they would even just admit there IS a problem!)
Good luck and happy grilling.

Posted on May 19, 2008

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: Amana Gas furnace, Air Command

Buy a new ignitor here; The Ignitor Store. Or talk an Amana dealer/Contractor to sell you one. They can range from 15 to 35 bucks! Depending on their mark-up. Give them your model number, and or ignitor part number. Their simple to change out, good luck, please contact if you have any questions.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

rayname
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: cant find wireing diagram for carrier 585ejw30050ca

if you have a volt/ohm meter you can unplug all the wires to the valve set the meter to ohms and check to see across each terminal which have measurable resistance these should be the coil, usually the diagram is on the panel door i guess this is not the case so you will probably have to see which wires have voltage when your tstat is calling for heat also you need to make sure there are no other safety holding this circuit out let me know how you make out

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: spark module will not stop after lighting burner

The module might not sense the flame: check electrical connections: wire (and its contacts0 and conections by fryer chasis; to be sure please bond with 18AWG wire pilot burner with spark module green wire.
MarKor

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace runs about 1 minute, then total shutdown

What type of gas supply line do you have? Is it black pipe or copper? If it is copper, there can be a film like substance that builds up on the inside of the copper. The debris will the get caught in a pre screen where the supply enters the valve thus cutting the supply of gas to the unit. Also, the thermocouple may be bad. You didn't say that you replaced it. Try replacing it as well. Also, you could have a limit switch turning the system off and thus cutting the gas off completely but it is highly unusual for the pilot to be cut off as well unless the pilot is being blown out when the gas is shut off. Also, turn the unit to fan only without calling for heat. Using a flame of some sort, put it into each baffle of the heat exchanger. If your flame is being blown around in one of the baffles, then you have a hole in the heat exchanger and what is happening is that the roll out switch is cutting the unit off and the air still moving through the heat exchanger is blowing the pilot out. I have seen this actually happen. If your furnace is in excess of 15 years old, it does need to be checked for possible holes. If it is in excess of 25 years old, it is a huge possibility that the unit has already developed a hole. If you feel hair coming out of one of the baffles, then shut the unit down immediately and have it replaced!

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

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1 Answer

Polit lights ignitor keeps sparking burners do not light i have 24 volts to gas valve


Clean spark igniter check to see if its the right position could be missing the gas check pilot is clean , check igniter is not cracked

Nov 03, 2016 | Heating & Cooling

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Can't seem to access Hotpoint Stove Pilot Light?


Your range uses electronic ignition, not pilot lights. For surface burners the igniter sparks when the gas valve is turned to the "light" position. All burners should spark when any gas valve is in the light position. For the oven the ignitor is also electric but does not spark but rather heats up or glows. What is the problem with your range?

Nov 30, 2014 | Hotpoint RGB745 Gas Kitchen Range

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Our Kenmore Elite Gas stove has 1 pilot that won't light when the knob is turned. How do we fix this.


The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

Apr 12, 2014 | Kenmore Elite Stainless Steel 40" Dual...

1 Answer

Teledyne ec-400 pilot light won't light up? I can see it sparking but no ignition? Just replace the pilot burner assembly.


make sure 24 ac volts to gas valve between brown wire and ground if not check safety circuit

May 05, 2012 | Teledyne Laars Pool & Spa

1 Answer

Hotpoint gas stove. burners work, oven and broiler do not.


Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.

May 09, 2011 | Hotpoint RGB528 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

No flame


Several steps here to check...
turn power off unit and back on
set thermostat to heat
watch for pilot to ignite..igniter should glow orange or cherry red or spark if its a spark type ignitor
Did you see a pilot light ignite?

If not you probably have a bad igniter.

If pilot lit....in a little bit you hear a click of the gas valve opening..then the main burners will ignite

If you see the pilot and the main burner lights but goes out in a few minutes or immediately you may have an issue of the "high limit" switch tripping.

Is the blower fan turning that blows air out of your vents?
are all your vents open in your house? too many times i see homes with almost all vents shut.

Jan 08, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

I replaced what I thought was a bad igniter.But still had no glow from new igniter. Must be something else.Where do I go from here?


Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:
  • Pilot Ignition
  • Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)
  • Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)
  • Spark Ignition System

  • Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


    Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
    This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


    What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

    It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

    Dec 30, 2009 | GE Ovens

    1 Answer

    Kenmore gas oven model no. 273 3248296 pilot free ignition wont fire up


    Hi

    If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
    The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
    The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
    The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
    The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
    But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
    If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
    If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
    One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
    There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
    The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
    Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

    Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


    Thanks
    Rylee

    Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

    2 Answers

    Pilot light will not light


    you should have to push the dial or a seperate button in to manually open the pilot gas valve. If you find this not to be true and you have a spark either the pilot burner assembly needs to be pulled and cleaned.

    Dec 18, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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