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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ignite prob
You've got two different things going on. First - the type of igniter used on your model does wear. I have had mine for over 10 years and have gone through 3 such igniters - and I grill nearly 3 times per week over the 25 week "grilling" season where I live. Spring for the $12 part and just replace it.
The other issue sounds like a clogged cross-over system. I would remove the burners, including the cross-over bar on the far left side that connects them. Clean the exterior with a stiff steel/brass brush and the inside with a bottle brush. Make sure all the holes are clear to allow gas to flow easily - use a wooden tooth-pick to do this to make sure you don't change the size of the holes! Put that baby back together and I think you'll find you'll be good as new!
These grills are great. Now, if Weber could only fix the uneven heat problem between the left and right side I'd REALLY be happy! (I wish they would even just admit there IS a problem!)
Good luck and happy grilling.
Posted on May 19, 2008
SOURCE: Amana Gas furnace, Air Command
Buy a new ignitor here; The Ignitor Store. Or talk an Amana dealer/Contractor to sell you one. They can range from 15 to 35 bucks! Depending on their mark-up. Give them your model number, and or ignitor part number. Their simple to change out, good luck, please contact if you have any questions.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
if you have a volt/ohm meter you can unplug all the wires to the valve set the meter to ohms and check to see across each terminal which have measurable resistance these should be the coil, usually the diagram is on the panel door i guess this is not the case so you will probably have to see which wires have voltage when your tstat is calling for heat also you need to make sure there are no other safety holding this circuit out let me know how you make out
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
The module might not sense the flame: check electrical connections: wire (and its contacts0 and conections by fryer chasis; to be sure please bond with 18AWG wire pilot burner with spark module green wire.
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
What type of gas supply line do you have? Is it black pipe or copper? If it is copper, there can be a film like substance that builds up on the inside of the copper. The debris will the get caught in a pre screen where the supply enters the valve thus cutting the supply of gas to the unit. Also, the thermocouple may be bad. You didn't say that you replaced it. Try replacing it as well. Also, you could have a limit switch turning the system off and thus cutting the gas off completely but it is highly unusual for the pilot to be cut off as well unless the pilot is being blown out when the gas is shut off. Also, turn the unit to fan only without calling for heat. Using a flame of some sort, put it into each baffle of the heat exchanger. If your flame is being blown around in one of the baffles, then you have a hole in the heat exchanger and what is happening is that the roll out switch is cutting the unit off and the air still moving through the heat exchanger is blowing the pilot out. I have seen this actually happen. If your furnace is in excess of 15 years old, it does need to be checked for possible holes. If it is in excess of 25 years old, it is a huge possibility that the unit has already developed a hole. If you feel hair coming out of one of the baffles, then shut the unit down immediately and have it replaced!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
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