Question about Kenmore 62872 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore dryer electric 417.8114200 - purch 2001. Dryer rear panel and top read get very hot, too hot to touch for heat setting above "Low heat". I have cleaned all air ducts inside/outside machine and air moves fine at vent roof exit. Used oven thermometer to verify that the 3 that settings do provide different non-excessive temps (approx 110deg,120,130 based on short test). Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer produces low heat but not high heat

check the vent outside it seems to be getting too hot and cycling the element off and on your safety therm.

Posted on Dec 13, 2007

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mikedurland
  • 481 Answers

SOURCE: low heatworks, high heat does not.

it sounds like you need a set of thermo switches. one may have stopped functioning. a service tech can test them easily. should be low cost

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

mikedurland
  • 481 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer model 41783142300

this is an airflow problem. make sure you are using a rigid metal duct behind the machine and not a flexible one. clean out the exhaust duct behind the dryer and in the wall all the way to the  outside. any residue of lint inside these ducts will increase drying time dramatically. basically clean everywhere the air flows. 
3d9f6fc.jpg

  • if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 
Mike  
  • picture is from fixitnow.com

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer wont stay on... it appears to have intermittent heat.

You have a broken belt. This dryer is complimacated but here goes.Remove the console screwsand flip the control panel upwards simular to what they do on washers. Remove the 3 screw in the rear that hold the top and get the top off. Pop the bottom panel and back off the screws holding the front on then remove the screws from inside the top. You can get the front off now. Get the drum out and clean out the dryer. Oil all 4 wheels and idler. You will note the micro switch below the idler. that stops the drum from turning when the belt breaks. You will be a pro if you can fix this one.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore gas front load dryer.Very little heat, takes 3x to dry

Check your heating elements. check the outside exhaust door is it open.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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1 Answer

Dryer surface too hot to touch


this dryer is an electrical heated dryer i suppose, ask an electrician to check the heat sensor, for this should trigger the on and off switch of the heater according to the drying cycle you set your dryer.

Dec 07, 2013 | GE DSKP333ECWW Laundry : Washer/Dryer...

1 Answer

Where is thermal fuse


If your Kenmore dryer has stopped producing heat, chances are the problem lies with the dryer's thermal fuse. A fire-prevention safety device, the thermal fuse is designed to disrupt the flow of electricity to the dryer's heating mechanisms if the dryer temperature reaches a predetermined maximum. Once activated, the thermal fuse must be replaced to restore the heat to your dryer. In Kenmore brand residential dryers, the thermal fuse will be located in one of two places.

Instructions

Front Panel Access
1 Unplug your Kenmore dryer from its power source. Make sure that the appliance is unplugged before proceeding.
2 Use a flathead screwdriver or putty knife to remove the dryer's bottom service panel, sometimes called the toe panel. Slide the screwdriver or putty knife along the top of the toe panel until you've located the toe panel clips. The clips are usually located about four inches in from either side of the service panel. Push down on the toe clips with the screwdriver or putty knife to release. Remove the panel and set it aside.

3 Locate the thermal fuse on your Kenmore dryer. Look for the thermal fuse directly above the dryer's motor; it looks like a white strip with two wires, and is usually mounted off to one side. See Resources for a diagram of thermal components.
Rear Access
4 Disconnect the Kenmore dryer from its power source while locating the thermal fuse.
5 Move the dryer away from the wall so that you can access the back of the appliance.
6 Use a screwdriver to remove the dryer's back panel. Set the panel and loose screws aside until you are ready to replace them.
7 Locate your Kenmore dryer's thermal fuse just above the exhaust port. The thermal fuse looks like a white strip with two connected wires.

Tips & Warnings

Clogged exhaust ports are a common cause of thermal fuse failure. While you've got your Kenmore dryer in pieces, clean out the exhaust ducts to keep it functioning at its best.

Take all proper safety precautions when working with electrical appliances. Make sure that your Kenmore dryer is unplugged before attempting to service it.

Check this link ,if you use Whirlpool Dryers:
http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/thermalfuse-dryer-Whirlpool-29inch-electric.html

Thanks

Apr 01, 2012 | Dryers

2 Answers

How do i change the high limit thermostat on a kenmore dryer # 72822


Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Slide the dryer out from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent from the back of the dryer. Loosen the retaining screw on the clamp connecting the vent to the dryer's exhaust port and slide the vent off of the port.
Remove the hex nuts holding the dryer's rear panel in place and slide the rear panel off to the side of the dryer. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing on the right side of the dryer. The oval-shaped thermostat can be found a few inches from the bottom of the heating element housing.
Unplug the two thermostat wires by sliding them off of the thermostat's contact posts. Slide the old thermostat out of the socket on the heating element housing.




Mar 12, 2011 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer not heating during cycle, what do I do?


You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.

Oct 23, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110


If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Feb 04, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer, electric


forget temp ck..first ck air flow at rear of dryer be sure strong air flow present if not remove back ..remove 4 screws holding blower housing to inside wall remove the 2 screws under lint screen on top ..clean blower housing if housing clear ck vent line all the way to end outside for restrictions ..reinstall line to dryer be sure not to crimp or flatten hose when pushing dryer back to wall ...quick ck dry a load with rear vent hose disconnected if cks ok definite vent restriction

Dec 05, 2008 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore gas dryer 110.97566200 gas dryer is running throught the cycle but no heat.


Your Heating Elements could have problemA dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position

Aug 04, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model# 86592110 - 65921


The heating element DOES cycle on and off through the cycling of the high limit thermostat. When was the last time you inspected the dryer vent and/or inside the dryer for lint? This sounds like you could have a couple of possible issues. Either you have a dryer that can't breath (Meaning, the vent hose is clogged from where it leaves the dryer to the vent outside. Or...the dryer may be clogged inside the air baffle inside the dryer where the lint screen goes.), or you could have a high limit thermostat that is malfunctioning. Now...the dryer will get hot to some degree, but it shouldn't be excessive. Here's a recommendation:

1. Remove the dryer vent hose from the dryer and turn the dryer on. Is the air leaving the dryer forceful and warm? (it should measure about 140 degrees F) If so...you probably have a clog or kink in the ducting somewhere between the dryer and where it exits the house. If the air is weak and cool, you will need to inspect your dryer interior to find what is obstructing the air flow. Rodents are notorious for building nests inside the event line or air baffle.

2. Can you access the heating element so you can see it? Start the dryer with the casing removed so you can watch the heating element. The element should glow red, but not so bright that it glows like the sun, and it should cycle on and off. If it glows continuously, the high limit thermostat is a likely suspect and should be replaced. (NOTE: It is recommended that you replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cut-out at the same time. Some manufacturers will sell the two as a pair).

HINTS: If you have a lint screen in the door, you should be able to access the heating element by removing a panel under the door. If your lint screen is on top of the washer, you will have to remove the rear panel of the dryer to see the heating element.

If the dryer is left to run in an overheat condition, the thermal cut-out and/or heating element will eventually blow. It is recommended that you inspect the dryer to see what is causing your current problem.

CAUTION: Always unplug the dryer if you are servicing the inside of the unit. Dangerous voltages are present even with the unit turned off. Also, unplug the dryer if you have to remove the rear panel. The 220VAC terminal is directly behind the panel and can cause electric shock if touched.

I hope this information helps you. Do your homework and post back if you need any further assistance.

Feb 02, 2008 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer produces low heat but not high heat


check the vent outside it seems to be getting too hot and cycling the element off and on your safety therm.

Oct 22, 2007 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

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