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Inducer comes on, pressure switch makes, ignitor lights but no gas, with terminals off of gas valve i get 26 volts with them on i don't get voltage, i also have 13 volts to gas valve when unit is powered whether the thermostat is calling for heat or not. Model GMT070-3A

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Here is a link i use for goodman http://www.hvacpartsshop.com/Gmph075-4%20Series.Pdf 

this covers the GMT series heaters with simple to follow test instructions.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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Heater will not ignite


  1. Do you have a standing pilot style heater = Milivolt
  2. or is it an IID = Spark style ignitor
  3. Or... Hot surface Ignitor = glows red hot like an auto cigarette lighter?

Most common problem I have come across over the last few weeks, is pressure switch not closing, meaning - dirty filter. Try cleaning your filter: backwash or rinse cartridges.

  1. is pilot staying on, and burning well?
    1. If so, is htr's gas valve in ON position?
  2. Do you hear sparking?
    1. If No, then one of the safety switches is keeping heater from firing...
      1. Toggle switch - on/off
      2. Thermostat - turned up high?
      3. Pressure switch - closes circuit when pump comes on
      4. 2 each high limits
      5. Fusible link / roll out switch
    2. If yes, either gas valve is off, is bad or the Ignition module is bad? Some call it grey box.
      1. You will need to test for voltage at the common and MV posts of the gas valve - 24 to 28 volts. If voltage = bad gas valve; if no voltage = bad IID Module (Intermittent Ignition Device)
  3. Do you see a bright red glow in the burner tray area?
    1. If yes, either fuel supply is off, or Ignitor has worn out and the glow is not hot enough to ignite raw fuel.
    2. If no, check voltage at Ignitor - depends on make and model of heater- could be as low as 24 volts and as much as 110 volts. So... No voltage at the supply wires = bad sending component, again depend on brand and model, could be ignition module, could be circuit board?
    3. If yes voltage, bad Ignitor
      1. Again, this is if fuel supply is confirmed.
Good Luck

May 08, 2015 | Teledyne Laars Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater...

1 Answer

The ignitor comes on and the pressure switch closes with the inducer on but the burners wont come, mod . H9-1262


check gas pressure if ok see if voltage to gas vale brown wire if ok bad gas valve if no voltage check safety circuit

Sep 17, 2013 | Raypak 130,000 BTU Natural Gas Pool...

1 Answer

The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 14, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

2 Answers

I have a Arcoaire Gas Furnace (Model# GNJ100N12A1), that will not fire up. It has a White Rogers Digital Stat. First the Stat seems to be faulty, since it reads 70plus in a house that has a temp of 30...


Sounds like a faulty board. shut the power to the furnace off for a minute then turn it back on. Make a call for heat at the thermostat. The inducer should start and close contacts on a pressure switch . Once pressure switch closes the hot surface ignitor should glow red. Then the gas valve will open when the gas valve opens you should get fire till the stat is satisfied. If your concerned it is the jump out r to w on the board this will eliminate the stat. If you to reset the rollout switchs 3 timesyou're getting flame rollout and you either have a cracked heat exchanger or blockage in the exhaust piping or a bad inducer motor. Keep me posted with what you find!

Dec 15, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Replaced board on heater and pressure switch heil furnace still wont start is it smart valve


Hi, if you have replaced the control board and pressure switch, you need to check the sequence of operation. Starting with the inducer motor, must start up to pressurize unit box and be sure the pressure switch is closed. Even though you have replaced this switch, it may not have enough pressure to close it due to condensation in hose, a leak and so on. Jump across this switch to see if the pilot will light next. If this unit has a flame roll out switch located by the corner burner, make sure it is not tripped. Sequence of operation is, first your inducer motor will start and vent old gases and build pressure. Pressure switch will make and send signal to ignitor board to start pilot. If you have a HSI pilot, (Hot surface ignition ) it will glow. Next it gets the flame sensor hot enough to send a signal that the pilot is proved back to the board to fire the main gas smart valve with 24 volts. Go through this check as I have layed out. The flame sensor is right along side of the pilot tube and if the metal tip gets dirty, it will not fire. You can clean it with sanding cloth or fine steel wool to clean. If you go through all of these steps and it will not fire after you have made sure you have 24 volts ac at all controls in the sequence I have said, check the main gas valve across terminal C and MV for 24volts. If you have 24volts and it won't open the valve, it is faulty. Check this out for me and let me know. If no 24 volts, you have missed a safety in the sequence.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating& Refrigeration Contractor

Oct 21, 2010 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

York furnace model p2mpd12h06401f flashes 4 times for trouble code does'nt have code list inductor motor comes on but ignitor does'nt come on


Check pressure switch for inducer motor. If switch closes, check for crack in ignitor. If gas valve opens and you can hear/smell gas, the ignitor is bad probably. If pressure switch isn't closed you need to check for blocked vent/chimney/heatexchangers.

Dec 18, 2009 | York Furnace Draft Inducer Blower Fasco #...

1 Answer

My Furnace does not turn on. Installed a new igniter/flame rod assembly, still not coming on (I had this same problem before with another furnace which I changed the igniter flame rod and problem was...


Assuming the inducer fan and pressure switch are working fine, your next step is to test the voltage coming to the gas valve. There should be 4 wires going to the gas valve, one is black. This is the 24 volt power side. Unplug the molex connection at the gas valve and while the inducer is running test for 24 volts AC. If you get voltage you have a bad valve. If no voltage you have a bad circuit board. Test the safety circuit and roll-out sensors to make sure all switches are closed. Check for continuity across the switches.

Nov 09, 2009 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Won't srtart


Check at the gas valve to see if you are getting power to the terminals after you hear the click shortly before the ignitor stops. If no voltage ...replace the board.
Sequence is

induction fan on, if pressure switch is reading ok condition---->

Ignitor is powered for up to 20 seconds (depends on model) ----->

Gas valve is energized ----> if flame is present everything just works away, if no flame in 3 seconds sequence starts over for set number of tries or continuously (again depending on the model)

Hope this helps

if 23/27 volts is present at gas valve then replace valve but bad valve is not very common usually, its the board.

Nov 08, 2008 | Goodman GDS80703ANA Open Flame Mid-Size...

2 Answers

Janitrol/Goodman GMP075-3 Draft Inducer Fan Won't come on


most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.

Oct 25, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Goodman GMP075-3 ignition problem


OK, if the furnace is not lighting for even a few seconds, you have either a bad gas valve, bad wire, bad control module or no gas. The pressure switch is not the issue. Check all wires to the gas valve and look for 24 volts across them when the ignitor glows and you hear the click. Then test for 24 volts to ground. It could be a bad ground wire.

Sep 28, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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