My Homelite super 2 UT 10563A chainsaw is leaking Bar/chain oil into the piston barrel it's coming out of the exhaust port and spark plug hole, piston and ring appear to be ok, plenty of compression. I noticed the problem shortly after pressure washing the engine to replace some carb parts and basically give it a good cleaning. I'm wondering if there is a gasket or seal that may have gotton ruined because of the pressure washing that is now allowing chain oil to enter the barrel, any thoughts or ideas!. Thanks for your help. Bill

If it is pouring out you can adjust it but if it is not bad dont worry about it. you want a lot of oil coming out of it that is what keeps the chain lubricated this is very important otherwise you will burn the bar up and that will not be good

there is a breather hole somewhere you need to clean it up so you can find it probly on the cap

The saw you have must have a combined crankcase/oil tank, they will be seperated via a gasket, if this gasket is leaking then oil from the oil tank can and will enter the bottom of the crankcase.

I have a Homelite XL and was having problems with rope pulling from difficult to unable to pull rope while trying to start saw. I removed the muffler, squirted some WD40 through the exhaust port ABOVE and BELOW the piston compression ring. Then pulled the rope about 20 times without spark plug to fully lubricate the piston and cylinder. Left it till the next day, pulled it through about 20 more times, put the spark plug back in,and it works well now. Guess it was just gummed-up a little and the lubrication freed it.

Check that it is mechanically sound, remove the muffler and check the condition of the piston through the exhaust port, any signs of scuffing, or damage, and the saw will need to come apart.

I input your model number and found 3 possible matches, "42cc/46cc Chain Saw UT-10520; SUPER 2 Chain Saw UT-10520 or SUPER 2 Chain Saw UT-10520-A".
I opened the first "Ref # 3" on "Figure A" I suspect is what you say is leaking. It is very inexpensive and available. I would order one and inspect it once recieved to determine an installation method. It does not appear overly difficult without the part in hand. Good Luck.


Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

If the pump is a piston type, there must be valves on both sides of the pump to control the flow of oil in one direction. The one in the tank is called is called a 'duck-bill' valve and may be mal-functioning. Can you move the diaphragm by hand to see if it pumps anything? Did you run the engine without the bar and chain attached to make sure the bar oil-ports were not choked up. Oil should ooze out of the engine side port when running. Hope some of this helps!

Your saw is listed as an "XL Chain Saw UT-10655" here:
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
See the "Engine Internals" print. The oiler appears to above the clutch and driven by a pressurized tank. Venting the tank (opening the oil cap) may help help with weeping but only emptying the tank will stop it.

If no oil from engine oiler hole I suspect a failed hose or connection. Use the IPL to inspect and repair as needed.

Oil System Plugged.

1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. Please take extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou

Inspect your cylinder and piston as follows:
A written diagnosis by a good independent saw shop ($10-20 I recommend Stihl) might be a good idea at this point.
1. Remove the starter housing. Does the starter operate smoothly? If yes, reinstall the cover and continue with 2, if no repair starter.
2. Is the saw equipped with a decompression valve? Yes continue, no proceed with 3.
· Leave the ignition off, set the valve and pull the starter.
· Pull gently to release the valve. Is there a difference in the effort required?
· If yes continue with 3, if no repair or replace the decompression valve.
3. Was this saw perhaps operated in a lean condition (metal transfer from the piston to cylinder wall)? This may be caused by many things including; leaky intake connections at the engine or carburetor; leaky crankcase seals; or running on gasoline containing no 2-cycle oil.
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug. Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole, inspect the cylinder above the exhaust port. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by an independent saw shop should be considered.
4. The last likely possibility is the saw has jumped timing. This problem or any not discussed is usually beyond the ability of the operator to repair. Please take it to a good local saw seller/mechanic for a written diagnosis before authorizing any repair. HTH
Lou
A short block R² is the usual repair homeowner grade saws. You may find some additional help here:
ArboristSite.com Chainsaw thread (free to join)
http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=9
Please do a search for your saw before posting any question.

May be oil port on saw clogged. Remove side cover, remove bar and chain. Remove giude plate if equipped. Check to see if small oil hole on saw is open and clean. You can start the saw with side cover removed to see if oil is coming from oil hole or not. If it is coming from oil hole when running the problem is most likely dirty bar .If bar is dirty check to see that groove is clean and the oil hole along the edge of bar is clean also. The hole is at same end of bar that attaches to saw.