Question about GE JSP69 Electric Kitchen Range

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My oven just quit, control panel works normal, broiler works but oven element won't heat up. Replaced the element, same problem.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: oven elements dont work / stove top works fine

Repair person also shut the power off before replacing the fuse...

Posted on Dec 20, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: broiler quit

Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.

Posted on Feb 02, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

SOURCE: GE JBP30 oven bottom element not working after being replaced

I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: frigidaire model fef336ece.oven and broiler wont

thermostat possible open check not sure if this model has a resettable or not

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.

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is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.

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Manufacture and model would be nice ohm out the bake element might be open some are in the oven cavity others are hidden below the lower oven plate and have to check from the rear by removing back cover in the bake mode the broil element element cycles on/off thats why you have some heat.

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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

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The easiest way to test whether this is working is to turn the broiler on and look at the element. If it is working correctly then the element should be glowing red.
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is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

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Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.

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