Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

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Kenmore gas range model 362.75875691 will not function in bake or broil mode. Did all the tests and have determined there is no power when testing from the neutral to the bake and broil relay hot when bake or broil function is initiated. Power going into Timer erc panel checks out. The original problem is that the oven does not work. Glow bar not glowing. No power to the glow bar and resistance test is spot on. Sensor checks out good as do oven door open and clean mode checks out. Cooktop works fine. It seems odd that both relays have failed so my assumption is the Timer ERC 2 device is bad. Before I spend $200.00 for a replacement do you agree with my diagnostic or do you have a suggestion?

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  • perrynowak Nov 15, 2010

    I appreciate your response but let me be a little more specific. I was performing a relay contact operation test per the technical data sheet. When I put the probes of the meter to the BA terminal (bake) to the Neu (neutral) terminal there was no voltage in the OFF position. When I had my girlfriend turn the oven on to BAKE the timer would come on for a few seconds and then go off. During this period there was no recorded voltage which should have been 120. I did the same test for the BROIL relay and the results were identical. When I did the oven control test across terminals L1 to Neu I had 120V in the OFF position of the oven. I failed to see what if anything the voltage did should I have had my girlfriend turn to Bake or Broil mode. I can't test that should I need to until this evening. Turkey time is coming soon and I'm being threatened about not having a Turkey Dinner. Thanks for your help.

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Yes. I completely agree with you. Both relays would not go bad at the same time.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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  • Kenmore Master
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Well, IF you suspect that you have no power on the neutral (In reality there is no power on the neutral as it is the "Return" path for the current) However that doesn't mean that the wire is intact, it very well may be a disconnection, you need to meter each and every wire, and see if they have continuity from point to point, BOTH the Phase and the neutral. usually it is the Phase wire that is routed to each element or device, the Neutral, is used as a return or common wire. For something to work, it needs to have an unbroken Phase wire, and a connection back to the Neutral wire, to complete the circuit. You need to trace and meter out the Phase from where it comes in to each element and controller.
All a switch or a relay contact, does is make or break the Phase wire. this controls the element.
Usually it is the control rather than a relay, relays seldom fault... Controllers frequently do.
Try to obtain a service manual this will help you greatly. Please be careful.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


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The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

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