Question about Homelite Curved Shaft Trimmer Bump Feed Replacement Line

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F2035 UT70123A clutch faulty therefore no drive and also starter cord spins but as clutch doesn't work motor doesn't turn and therefore won't start

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First off, here is an exploded parts view with part numbers and diagrams for the machine.
http://ryobi-service.net/en/item/homelite/2376.html
Secondly, the clutch does not enable the engine to run. It is a centrifugal clutch and only works when its speed reaches a certain RPM. It controls the string/blade head only. I am including all instructions regarding the removal of the clutch and pull start mechanism. It is up to you if it actually needs replacement parts.

Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers or a good flat blade screwdriver.

Posted on Nov 16, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

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