Question about GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

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My ge front load washing machine drum is loose, I can slide it back and forth and when it spins it clanks on each turn, when I cleaned the pump I found a piece of metal (appeared to be some sort of anode) along with a sheered of bolt head. That was the first problem - the pump wouldn't work, - that issue is fixed thanks, but now I'm wondering what broke inside the drum and is it realtively fixable. Or should I just junk it.

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  • GE Master
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Front loaders frequently suffer bearing failure.

Posted on Jul 11, 2017

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Front loader washing machine

renew your door seal

Posted on May 27, 2007

natengel
  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: ge front load washer won't spin

replace the drain pump.and 2 remove the control panel u need 2 remove the 3 screws from top cover from the back

Posted on Nov 01, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Washing Machine Will not Spin

Howdy!
I just finished completely disassmbling my machine for the exact same reason you mentioned. And I mean completely. Not a screw still in place. It took 4 hours.
Turns out in my case that electrolysis is the problem.
What I mean by this is that behind the inner drum is a three pronged heavy metal piece made from galvanized steel which attaches to the inner drum by 6 large screws. Coming out of the center of this is a post which comes through the plastic drum housing into the back of the machine and hooks to the assembly your belt runs on. (This wheel for the belt looks a bit like a tire wheel well but thinner.)
What the problem is for me is that the piece inside that attaches to the drum (the galvanized steel one) has completely corroded from electrolysis and broken. All three prongs have completely broken off making it impossible for the drum to turn. I am a little irritated with GE at the moment because had they used an appropriate metal, knowing it would be constantly bathed by the water from the laundry loads, I would not be in this predicament. I am a little disturbed that a 15 lb metal part has broken before the rubber belt even wore out!
I mysel am on here right now trying to find the exact name of this part and possibly a part number so I can order it and replace it. My basement is currently a compete mess from this project and I have laundry waiting to be done.
I am also looking to see if maybe this just might be a recall situation where we can get some help with getting the part due to what I feel is faulty manufacturing.
Should I come up with any of these answers I will come back on here and share them with you.
In the meantime, unless you have the appropriate tools, plenty of time and plenty of patience, I don't suggest tearing into your machine like I have. It may be worth calling a appliance repair place for you.
If you want to be certain that this is in fact the same problem with your washer, open your machine and see if you can freely move the drum around by pushing on it. If it isn't a good solid middle of the machine spin and has play in it wear you can lift the drum a bit in any direction, we have the same problem.
Just from your description, I am betting we do.
I hope this is helpful, and I'll let you know what I find out!

Posted on Jan 13, 2008

  • 170 Answers

SOURCE: The drum inside my ge wbvh6240fww washer is loose.

There is one bearing in rear tub/bearing is part of rear tub...To repair that unit you will need a rear tub/inner basket with spindal and possible a front tub if it damaged..If i was you I would price the parts b/c you may not want to repair it as it can be costly .....Good luck

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: GE WSSH300 front load washing

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa

It sounds like (based on your initial description) the unit is detecting an incomplete drain or an unlocked door, hence the control will not initiate a hi-speed spin. Since you've checked the drain already you can likely rule the incomplete drain a non-factor.

I know most folks will rule out the lock initially because the unit does indeed "lock", however, the lock on these machines are a two part device, a set of contacts to lock and a secondary contact to activate hi-speed spin, i.e.

macmarkus_339.jpg
If it does indeed drain fine, then here's the next place I'd direct you to investigate.

**Unplug the unit from the wall first...safety first**

It will require you to visually inspect the control board, thus needing to remove the top panel by way of taking out the screws at the back and sliding the panel back and up.

What to look for specifically is the wires with the green connector fastened to the board securely...I've seen a few vibrate loose thus preventing the unit from spinning, i.e.

macmarkus_340.jpg
If loose push it all the way in until it cannot be pulled out with a slight tug ( there are clasp's on the connector but I suspect sometimes they aren't secure when leaving the factory...just my suspicion )

If these things can be ruled out, then it is quite likely the door switch, so here's how to change/access the latch assembly...

**The door latch is likely the single most common fault (which prevent's any spin, and consequently drenching wet clothing at the end of the cycle) with the frigidaire/electrolux built washer's, ASIDE FROM PUMPS BEING OBSTRUCTED.**

You should be able to purchase one at most local brick & mortar stores or on-line part's depot's such as "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclininc.com" to name a couple. They usually sell for about $50 or so, part # 1531974 ( # at repairclinic.com ) and are relatively easy to replace. It should resemble the image here...

218766c.jpg



As for replacing said switch, There are a couple ways to access it, through the top and squeezing your arm down the front or the way I prefer, remove the front bellows spring/retainer.

1) **UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE WALL OR TURN OFF THE BREAKER.**

2) Remove the spring, get it started where the spring is located with a small screwdriver. Once you`ve got the spring/retainer off ( it comes off and on pretty easy by hand ) pull the gasket/bellows back away from the cabinet.



a936590.jpg


309723c.jpg


3) Undo the two screws holding the switch to the cabinet, pull the switch out ( there is just enough slack in the wires so don`t pull too hard ) and swap the wires from the old assembly to the new one and you`re in business.

46e20c7.jpg
95f0559.jpg

4) To put it back together, just reverse the removal procedure. The trickiest part is the retainer. Rap the retainer around the boot leaving the spring for the last...and make sure the spring is located at the 6 o`clock position...usually. Just wherever it was initially.

Let me know if you need further assistance going forward or if my instructions are not clear.


Thank's again for visiting FixYa today. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on Mar 02, 2011

Testimonial: "thanks we tried everything else and am now ordering a door lock"

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When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

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