Question about Hobart EZ TIG 165i InverterBased Welder 165 Amps 230 Volts AC and DC

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Im welding 16ga sheet metal, with short little beeds. i will lay a 1 inch bead and stop and go to start another one i step on the pedal and there is nothen i have to wait for the machine to cycle. sometimes i wait a minute.

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Is it waiting to finish the post-flow cycle before allowing you to start the arc again? If so I'd return it with all speed because it's going to cost you much in time and gas both.

If you can't return it, are you capable of modifying it? If not, try breaking the arc and just starting the next without letting the pedal up fully.

lp

Posted on Dec 24, 2010

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Change tire kawasaki mule


Jeff:
Those tires and rims on the Kawasaki mule are extremely hard to change! To break the bead I use an impact hammer (metal tube with heavy rod going through it.) I have used a long pry bar or long crow bar. Step on the tire next to the rim and squirt a soap solution between the rim and the tire bead... do this all the way around the tire. Set the crow bar upright on the tire next to the rim and a couple of good hits on the top end of the crow bar should give you a little room between the tire bead and the rim.Just get a little room between the rim and tire bead, slip the crowbar between the rim and tire bead letting the other end of the crow bar rest on a piece of wood, and smack the crow bar next to the rim with a sledge hammer. Don't hit the rim!!! You can lay a short piece of two by four on top of the end of the crow bar to give you a better target. You'll need to do this around the circumference of the tire until the bead is broken all the way around the tire. Again, Don't damage the rim!! Take a short break, because you'll need to do the same thing for the other side of the tire!
Break's over... Lay the tire with the short lobe of the rim up, (the deep side of the rim down), and use your crow bar to lever the tire bead over the rim. The side of the tire you're not prying on should sit in the valley between the bead lobes. use another tool (long screwdriver or such to keep the tire from slipping back down over the rim. keep levering the tire off of the rim. Do the same for the other tire bead making sure the other side of the tire stays in the valley between the bead lobes. Installing the new tire is just the opposite of removing the old one. Don't be afraid of using the soap solution to install the new tire, and be careful not to damage the bead area of the tire (The bead is where the tire touches the rim, and any damage there will cause an air leak). You'll get a workout doing this job!!

Nov 30, 2013 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

ARC 100, 115v, 60HZ, 20A. When I run a beed, the


With these smaller machines you have a common problem. The way to get the weld to hold is on thicker material you have to sometimes pre-heat the metal in order to get it to stick. Also if ther is no flux nor gas the material has to be clean, free of dirt, oil, and rust. These machines are for very light use only. For welding material over 8 th inch, I suggest investing in a welder with at least 100 amps

Jul 25, 2011 | Lincoln Welding Tools

1 Answer

Lincoln 120v mig welder. makes different noise when running a bead and doesnt get penetration


I WROTE EARLIER WITH A POSSIBLE SOLUTION. I FORGOT TO CONSIDER THE THICKNESS OF THE PLATE YOU ARE RUNNING YOUR BEADS ON. IF THE PLATE IS 1/4"-1/2" THE BEAD WILL PROBABLY BE THIN AND HAVE A HIGH HUMP IF YOU WILL. LOOK IN YOUR MANUAL IF YOU HAVE ONE TO FIND THE SPECS OF YOUR MACHINE FOR THE LIMITS OF THICKNESS RECOMENDED. IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE I WOULD TRY WELDING ON SHEET METAL,LIKE 14GA. OR 16GA. SEE HOW YOUR BEADS COME OUT ON THIS MATERIAL. FIND AN OLD FENDER TO WELD ON AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS. GOD BLESS AND GOODBYE.

Nov 14, 2010 | Garden

2 Answers

I have a problem with **** inclusion in my welds. I am using 3/32 6013 electrodes on a small AC unit. I am welding 1/8 inch mild steel plates in a 2F configuration. When I start the weld I produce is...


A number of things can cause "****" inclusions, poor Technique, bad fit up, Amperage too low, Electrodes damp---etc. Firstly you are using AC-- Check the Electrode carton for the correct ampage, then check the set up, this is the electrode use AC or DC, most 6013 work better on AC terminal setting dont matter + or -- earth.
If you weave too wide you will loose the fluidity on the weld metal, meaning you will be welding over the ****.
before welding the bead, start and iniciate the weld pause a second until the arc is established then move off.

Jan 08, 2010 | Welding Tools

1 Answer

Not forming a continuous bead on the inside of a 3'' carbon steel. set amps at 85/ 90 argon at 10, what am i doing wrong. please help me


I need more info, you are Way too vague.

What type of weld are you trying to do? A Fill weld?

Are you trying to fill a V in-between two pieces of hard steel, (Carbon), that is 3 inches thick?

1. If you are, the electrode should be held at a 90 degree angle to the metal. Straight up, and down.

Moving the electrode too fast will cause a intermittent bead. Slow down. TIG welding takes time. It isn't like ARC welding.
If the electrode burns off to one side, you don't have the electrode in the correct position.

2.Too little heat, (Amperage) will make a 'Cold' weld, and you won't have the penetration that you need. Too much gas (Argon) will do this also. Too little gas, and you'll burn through.


Nov 08, 2009 | Welding Tools

1 Answer

Have a 120 volt 70 amp stick welder what gauge or stick type do i use


1/16th stick to 3/32nd.
3/32nd being the maximum. Don't use 3/32 for an extended period of time, or you can burn up that welder. (Even if it has a fan. If it doesn't have a fan built-in, I invite you to put a house box fan, close to the ventilation slots for the welder)

I would also recommend using 6011 rod. It's a mild steel rod, and is excellent to begin with. Usually used for filling, and medium strength situations. It does splatter, be aware of that.

Not trying to give you a tutorial on beginning welding, but would like to offer some tips:

1.Make sure the ground clamp has a good, clean surface it's clamped to. If not, it will be very hard to get the rod started, and also to keep it going. (Makes bad welds too)

2.Start with a B U T T weld. (Had to type it that way do to censorship of certain words)
That's laying two pieces of metal next to each other, and laying a bead in-between them. Easiest thing to start with. Go to corner welds next, (Two pieces together at a 90 degree angle), then try Uphill welds.

3.Shield flipped up on helmet, welder on. Lay the rod past the area you are going to start on. Past the metal edge. Lay the ->flux coating of the rod on the edge of the metal piece. The tip of the rod is past the metal edge by at least two inches.

This way you are lined up to begin the weld. Then flip your shield down, draw the rod back, until the tip of the rod touches the metal. Once the arc starts, lift the rod up a little to get the correct height, and keep that arc going.

4.Watch the PUDDLE, not the arc! You are watching the melted metal in front of the arc. You need to see how that puddle is doing, in order to compensate by bringing the rod closer, or further away.

5.Use a Zig-Zag pattern to begin with. Keep the Zig-Zag close to each other, until you are comfortable enough to make a longer pattern. Watch the penetration. Good penetration is the key, not a pretty weld.

6.Use the proper safety equipment. If the welding helmet lens has a tiny little scratch, you will burn your eyes. NO fun, believe me!
You won't know it until you wake up the next day with your eyes swelled shut!

Cover your arms, and use welding gloves. Welders give can give you a radiation burn, worse than a bad sunburn. NEVER just start welding a little with No welding helmet. Welding goggles are for the birds, or Acetylene welding!

Be safe, have fun welding!

Sep 02, 2009 | Welding Tools

2 Answers

Welder work OK with flux wire, cannot get penatration in MIG mode


Are you using combination argon/co2 gas? You need a flow regulator and should have it set for about 10cfm. Note that this is different than a pressure regulator. The problem you note is a result of inadequate or improper gas.

Mar 10, 2009 | Campbell Hausfeld WG2060 Mig/Flux Versa -...

2 Answers

Mig Question


MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas welding, many times called Wire-feed.. Also referred as GMAW (Gas Metal Arc Welding). The "Metal" refers to the wire which is what is used to start the arc. It is shielded by inert gas and the feeding wire also acts as the filler rod. A semi-automatic process, it is fairly easy to learn and use.

Aug 27, 2008 | Lincoln Electric LINK2400-+1 CV-305 MIG...

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