Question about Viking VGRC485-6 Gas Kitchen Range

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In the large oven both burner flames are only reaching about 1 inch in length compared to the small oven which ignites at a length of 3+. This results in lengthy preheat time and inconsistent temps. This is a Viking Range 6 burner with griddle model # VGRC485-6GDSS

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: viking oven won't heat

Igniters need to be replaced

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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SOURCE: I have a viking VGIS480-6GDSS

www.repairclinic.com

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Viking Griddle thermostat issue

replace the hotplate ignitor. you may in the future have simmilar problems with the ovens or broiler, there are 4 ignitors in my unit I have replaced each at lease once. it seems to be a weak link in the design. If you need more information contact c2d6c2 at yahoo

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

EllaWatson25
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SOURCE: Problem with Viking stove griddle knob shaft

Abalos, we will be happy to assist you with your parts for the Viking griddle knob.
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Posted on Mar 11, 2010

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: griddle makes backfire noise

I get the same sound but I found it is actually coming from my stainless steel backsplash, it seems like the heat makes it flex from time to time.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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I have a Frgidaire es100 gas range(04-05). The broiler does not fire up and the oven cannot reach higher heats. The burner shows blue flames of about 1" along the length of the burner. The igniter...


Good Morning Robin C Reamer, thanks for your post!
From what you have described the broiler on your Frigidaire range is not starting. In order to have the proper component replaced I would suggest consulting with a professional technician in your area. Based off the information you provided it could be an issue with the burner or safety valve and having a professional come out would reduce the costs of parts. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Dec 02, 2014 | Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My oven will not ignite, what's the problem?


Hello there:
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself. The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame. Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are: The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven). The thermostat is defective. The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective. The selector switch is defective.

Oct 09, 2010 | Whirlpool GS563LXSS - stainless Steel Gas...

1 Answer

Oven will not heat past 100 degrees. Circuit breaker is not tripped. All other parts of the oven work fine.


Hello there:
It won't bake or even heat up correctly or If your oven won't bake, check these: Bake igniter Other causes Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself. The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame. Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are: The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven). The thermostat is defective. The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective. The selector switch is defective.

Jul 24, 2010 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Viking Professional VGIS 360-6BDSS (~10yrs old)- Oven won't come up to temp. The right oven burner ignites and the flames are a 1.5-2 inches long along the burner. The left burner will eventually ignite...


Your second ignitor needs replacement. If you can measure the current to the ignitor, it should be at least 3A. I usually replace this kind of ignitors with a Maytag ignitor, which is slightly shorter. The original one, part number is PB040001 has been discontinued.
Maytag ignitor part number is 12400035
If you buy it from the link above, coupon "New10" chops 10% off.

Oct 24, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Oven takes 5 minutes to come on (ignite).


Replaced the igniter. The parts guy told me that the amperage changes with age and use; thus the igniter still glows, but it takes much longer to operate the gas valve with the reduced amperage. Cost - $70.14

Oct 18, 2009 | Tappan 30IN ELEC IGNa Oven

1 Answer

Oven takes a long time to heat up.


Hello. To go 12 years without issues is excellent. Now however you will have to make a decision to repair or replace. Be sure to get a firm estimate before you repair and compare that to the cost of replacement.

here is what may be causing your problem:

Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.

Aug 15, 2009 | Maytag MGR5750 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven won't ignite but broiler does


If your oven won't bake, check these:

Bake igniter
Other causes
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.

Aug 11, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

The oven gas does not come on? Top and Broiler does. Oven igniter does glow


If your oven won't bake, check these:

Bake igniter
Other causes
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.

Jul 11, 2009 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Oven won't light, even with ignitor getting red


If your oven won't bake, check these:

Bake igniter
Other causes
Bake igniter Usually when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, that's about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.

The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace either the igniter or the gas safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.

Other causes Other reasons that your oven may not bake are:

  • The clock settings are incorrect (if you have timed baking or a self-cleaning oven).

  • The thermostat is defective.

  • The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.

  • The selector switch is defective.


May 23, 2009 | Magic Chef 9122 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

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