Question about Sta Rite STA-RITE CLAMP ASSY W/ NUT - C119-37S

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I can't get the two pieces of the pump to fit snuggly enough to get the clamp to fit

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The problem is the o-rings. The diffuser o-ring has to fit tight into the volute to go back together correctly. This is a common o-ring and can be found at any on-line supplier. You will need the model number of your pump and they should be able to help you. (you may also e-mail me your model and i can give you the part number:

As long as you have it open, replace the housing o-ring as well, this will ensure a good seal on the v-clamp once you get it back together. It is a good idea to have these extra two o-rings along with the shaft seal anytime you open the wet end of the pump, just in-case there is bad wear on the current seals.

Posted on Nov 15, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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I am a pretty handy man but my question is: How difficult would it be for me to replace my water pump? I don't think the pump is attached to the timing belt but want to know how difficult of a job it would...

Hello. If you are handy you can do this job. Take off the upper shroud half, then find a scrap piece of cardboard to cover the radiator.

You need a way to hold the water pump pulley and a wrench big enough to fit the clutch nut. A crescent/open end if you have it and a pair of vise grips to clamp on the back side of the pulley-----but use a buffer of some sort, rubber/old belt/leather to keep from marring the pulley. Channelocks will work here also, it doesn't take alot. All you have to do is get it broke loose, it should spin off after that.

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How do you install a timing belt tensior on 1997 Mazda Millenia a used one?

You have to take it off the engine and press the rod back into the housing. Use a press or a c clamp. There are alignment holes near the top of the tensioner. Find a piece of steel that will fit through the holes. I used a very small allen wrench. Press the rod until the holes on the side of the tensioner and the hole near the top of the rod align. Insert the piece of steel through the holes. Keep in mind that you will need to take the piece of steel out so make sure there is enough sticking out to pull with pliers or wire cutters(dont cut the steel) You can get to it easier if its sticking out of the hole facing the water pump or out of the front. Release the c clamp or press. Bolt it back up. If you bolt the top bolt first(not too tight) you can move the tensioner around better to get the rod under the pulley lever better. Then put in the lower bolt. Tighten. Then pull out the piece of steel used to hold the rod down.
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Hi there. Take one of the trays to a hardware store or even a home depot and but a 12 inch piece of clear plastic tubing which fits snuggly over the studs. Cut the pieces just long enough so that the trays snuggly fit into the refrigerator door. This will solve your problem for a few cents compared to a very pricey repair kit from the manufacturer of the refrigerator. good luck.

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Need a diagram of a 79 chevy monte carlo fuel pump exchange

If your car is a gas powered V8 or V6 it is fairly straight forward. If your car is one of the few diesels, I can't help you.

I'll assume it is a gas engine

The fuel pump is located near the front of the engine on either the left or right side near the large lower pulley. It is most likely located on the passengers side. The will be two lines attached to the pump. One is the feed line from the fuel tank and the other is the line that goes to the carburetor. You need to remove those lines before going any further. The supply line will most likely be attached to the pump by a short piece of rubber fuel line. Just loosen the clamp on the pump side of the hose and pull the hose of the pump. The supply line that goes up to the carb is most likely metal. To loosen the metal line at the pump takes a bit more patience. The fittings that are used on these lines are fairly soft and can be deformed or ruined by using the wrong wrench or by trying to use vice grips. The proper wrench you will need is called a flare nut wrench. That wrench grips the fitting on four side and prevents the wrench from slipping and rounding off the fitting.

Once you have removed the lines you can remove the pump itself. The pump is held onto the engine by two bolts. If the bolts are difficult to remove, spray some penetrating oil such as BP Blaster onto the bolts and let sit for a while. Most of the time these bolts will come out without too much of a fight. Once you have removed the bolts, the pump will pull out from the engine. You will see a long "pump handle" type of a lever that is attached to the pump. That lever is what runs the pump. That lever is driven off of the camshaft inside the engine.

Once you pull the pump out, you will need to clean the area off of any grease and dirt and scrape any old gasket material that may be stuck to the engine.

To reinstall your pump make sure the area is now clean and don't forget to put on the new gasket that should come with the new pump. Just slide the gasket over the long pump handle and line up the holes in the gasket with the bolt holes in the pump and then slide the pump into the engine.

Then you can reinstall the two bolts and tighten to about 25 footpounds. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten down rather snuggly. You dont want to overtighten as this may warp or crack the new pump and cause an oil or gas leak. Once you tighten down the new pump, you can reinstall the lines. Make sure that when you reinstall the metal line that you dont crossthread the fitting. The fitting should thread into the new pump easily by hand and then you will tighten it up using the flare nut wrench. The rubber line is then slid on to the new pump and then you tighten the clamp.

Once you are satisfied that everything is tightened down, start the car and check for leaks.

I hope this helps!!

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1 Answer

I have been rebuilding Hitachi nalers for about 2 years now and this one has me stumped. It works fine if you single shoot it. If you hold the trigger and try to bounce shoot the nails, the driver will not...

The roofers that frequent my shop want their nailers to work like machine guns. Here is what I do to make the hitachi 45 nail fast. Remove the cylinder and sand the fine scratches where orings meet cylinder. I use a rubber slug with a small bolt through the center. The rubber slug fits snuggly into the cylinder and the bolt into chuck of drill. Turn the cylinder with the drill while holding fine sandpaper against the scratches untill smooth. remove the nose from body and replace the sheet (part # 877125) and the bumper. If the sheet fits loose on the driver and the bumper has cuts or missing pieces, the driver will not return with full force. also the oring on the piston should not be too tight. Just snug enough to hold the weight of the piston. While nose piece is off check the air passage to feed piston for trash, use a small wire and push through to make sure. Make sure the orings on the feed piston fit snug. Actually push the feed piston by hand in the nose piece to make sure the three orings fit snugly. A loose feed piston will reduce nailing speed. Finally replace the boot on the firing pin. If the boot is blown off its seat with use replace the firing pin. A loose firing pin will waste air and lower pressure reducing nailing speed. Good luck

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2 Answers

Engine cranks but doesn't start, if i spray fuel on the intake will start, i can heard the fuel pump working when I open the ignition

I had two similar probs with a blazer 4.3L the fule pump runs but with not enough pressure to start the engine you must have more fule pressure to start the engine than to keep it running.
also there is a rubber seal connecting the pump to the line in side the tank if the rubber ripped or cracked it fits your situation.
take the rubber out and rig it with a piece of 100 psi fule line and a couple og stainless steel gear clamps instead of buy ing all the expensive items. good luck.

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First, is the dehumidifier high enough so that the hose isn't 'backing up'? Otherwise, attach a small radiator hose clamp to hold it on.

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