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What is the ohm value of a defrost heater to see if it is bad? Ge refrigerator model TBX18SASGLAD

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE Profile SxS Refrigerator wont defrost after new heater installed

If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.

Posted on Apr 30, 2008


SOURCE: GE Model GSS22JEMB WW - Defrost heater Bad

yes, remove the freezer panel and defrost with blow dryer. will work for about 5 to 7 days.

Posted on Jul 22, 2008

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SOURCE: Defrost Heater Resistance Range

21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,


Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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SOURCE: Hotpoint CTX21DA defrost heater not working

Heater coil can be checked with a continuity meter, just be sure to unplug the unit first. Before you do anything, locate the defrost timer which is under the control panel in the fridge at the top in the back. There is a little white plastic plug cover a small hole, remove that and you will see the manual advance device. You can only turn it one way due to its design, so using a flat bladed screwdriver that fits the device turn it slowly until you hear a click. then listen in the freezer for sizzling noises as the heater warms up. If you hear the noise you will need to replace the defrost timer, part is available on line. If it doesn't activate the timer then check the continuity on the heater element and the defrost thermostat. (You will have to cut the wires on the thermostat to accomplish this) and check it for continuity. The thermostat needs to be frozen to read properly otherwise it will appear to be open so leave it in a freezer for a bit then check it out. all the parts are available online, just google for refrigerator parts and look for your model.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: measurement of defrost heater elemnt resistance in E 442B

yes, should be 165

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

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My ge side-by-side refrigerator/freezer isn't cooling. It started on the refrigerator side and now both sides are losing cooling capability. There is ice build up on the lower back wall of the freezer....

Yes that is right. Turn the Refrigerator off/ unplug it. Remove the rear panel of the freezer and thaw out the coils with a fan or hair dryer.

The most common problem is with the defrost heater. Using an ohm meter check the heater for continuity but unplug the 2 wires (one from each side). This should be a glass encased heater. you can also very gently pull both ends of the heater and if it is bad it will come apart instead of feeling "springy". If you have only one heater your new replacement will probably be a 2 heater kit.


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21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,


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1 Answer

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Normally, the defrost heater can be checked for continuity rather than ohms of resistance. If the heater is o.k., then your problem may be the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. Contact an appliance service company.

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How do you test the defrost heater to see if it is functioning? We had same issue several years ago and the defrost heater was the issue. Before we buy parts, is there a way to test to see if that is truly...

You can remove the wires from the heater and using a volt/ohm meter set for ohms,test the heater terminals. If it reads it is good. If it does not read it is bad.
Or,you can force the fridge into the defrost mode and wait for the heater to come on. Find the defrost timer and turn it to the defrost setting.
This being a GE refrigerator it is probably the heater and the defrost thermostat.

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The next step would be to unplug the refrigerator and remove the rear panel and defrost so that you can unplug the defrost heater on one end and check the continuity. 305175 Defrost Heater and defrost thermostat Part number 3489. If you change the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Let me know the results. Remember above 60 degrees the defrost thermostat will show open with your OHM meter. Sea Breeze

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1 Answer

Test to see if circuit board is okay

From Appliance

WHY Force the Arctica to Defrost if it Don�t Want to? Don't bother using the self-diagnostics feature to force a defrost cycle. On some models � those with control knobs - which technically are not Arctica models (Arctica models have plastic liners with touch pads � Standard GE electronic models with metal liners have knobs) servicers would have to invest in parts to build a �test� control panel, complete with touch pads and digital displays, to achieve this (self-diagnostics) function. Instead, save both time and money by following this helpful Arctica Tip: If a frosted evaporator or a �frost block� is apparent, initiating a defrost cycle may not reveal anything helpful anyway. First, disconnect power and then simply check the resistance across the defrost heater and bimetal circuit at the main board located at the backside. The two associated wires at the main board are almost always BLUE and ORANGE. The heater/bimetal circuit should normally read around 30 ohms roughly. Next, check the evaporator thermister at the main board between thermister input terminals J1-4 (Blue/White) and J1-5 (Blue) to determine that its resistance is greater than 1.2k ohms but not more than 166.8k ohms depending on its ambient temperature. If thermister resistance falls within this range according to temperature (Approximately: 6k ohms at 70�F � 16.3k ohms at 32�F � 51k ohms at 0�F) and the heater/bimetal circuit is diagnosed as good, then replace the main board.

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Either heater or Board is most likely bad. You can remove heater and test it with ohm meter for continuity

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Most likely it is the defrost heater. (it's that thing at the bottom of the coils with two wires leading from it.) To test it for sure, you'd have to use an ohm meter, but many times you can visually see that the heater is bad. Defrost the coils with a hair blower. If you don't have the heater on hand, the refrig will work fine for a week until you can replace the heater.

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It's almost always the defrost heater. If you have volts to the defrost thermostat the defrost control is working. Set your meter to check ohms and remove the wiring from the heater. If anything changes when you touch the meter leads to the heater terminals then the heater is probably good, but my guess is nothing will change, which means you've got a bad heater.

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loaded question any COULD be bad a volt ohm meter will tell you whitch one is bad

if this is a ge sxs i would check the defrost heater first

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