Question about Bosch SHE99C05UC Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Kindly check for the following :
Check for hose kinks or food plugging drain hose. Start at the drain port exit.
Check the check valve and drain hose for debris.
Check pump motor for reversing during the pump out make sure the dishwasher is pausing between the wash and drain cycles letting the pump/motor reverse for the drain cycle.
Check pump motor assembly for a drain solenoid, during the pump out make sure the solenoid makes that distinctive "clunk" noise
If you have recently installed a new garbage disposal, check knock-out plug at connection.
Check pump impeller for damage.
Check that the water inlet valve isn't seeping fresh water into the dishwasher when off.
Please contact for any further clarifications.
A Fixya Rating would be appreciated if.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
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