Question about Bosch SHE99C05UC Dishwasher

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I have a Bosch Model SHE99C Dishwasher. When the dishwasher runs, but no water is coming out. Is there a way to run a test cycle to find out what the problem is?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rylee_smith
  • 8619 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher has water in bottom after cycle is complete

Hi

Kindly check for the following :

Check for hose kinks or food plugging drain hose. Start at the drain port exit.
Check the check valve and drain hose for debris.
Check pump motor for reversing during the pump out make sure the dishwasher is pausing between the wash and drain cycles letting the pump/motor reverse for the drain cycle.
Check pump motor assembly for a drain solenoid, during the pump out make sure the solenoid makes that distinctive "clunk" noise
If you have recently installed a new garbage disposal, check knock-out plug at connection.

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Check pump impeller for damage.
Check that the water inlet valve isn't seeping fresh water into the dishwasher when off.

Please contact for any further clarifications.

A Fixya Rating would be appreciated if.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: bosch dishwasher motor keeps running no water

Hola Lewis!

This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".

What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)

All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.

Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.

There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.

Hope this helps.
SG

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Diswasher Pump won't stop running

Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.

I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.

Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.

STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.

To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)

Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.

I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.

Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.

Good luck.

Montpelier Man

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher timer sticking

I have been told to replace the timer which I am looking to do the same to my machine!

Posted on May 25, 2010

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How to run self test on bosche dishwasher


Here is an excerpt from "Bosch Dishwasher Troublesoooting".

Running a Test Cycle
Bosch dishwashers have a test cycle which can be run as a troubleshooting measure. The method to run this test cycle is similar across the Bosch dishwasher range so if your dishwasher features seems different from those described below then try experimenting, as the process is fairly straight forward and will be very similar. Bosch dishwasher model numbers are usually found around the top or lip of the door. One of the most common differences between dishwasher models is simply the names of the buttons. For example in the first example below, POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH may be called WASH and ECO depending on your dishwasher model and the country you are in. The other key difference is whether your dishwasher has a display panel (which can display error codes) or not (in which case a program light will illuminate to tell you the fault.
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WASH - A heating fault. Check your heating element.
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0 - No errors have been detected.
1 - A water sensor/filling fault.
2 - A heating fault.
4 - A water filling fault. This can also appear as F on the display during a normal cycle.
8 - A temperature sensor fault.
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Hi there,

Unfortunately, it seems that the heating element has failed. The dishwasher uses steam to heat the tub to dry the dishes. I suspect your dishes are also being washed in cold water.

To check this, please run a regular full wash cycle. Allow the washer to fill with water and run for about 10 minutes, then open the door and feel the water temperature in the bottom of the washer. If the water is cold, it's more than likely the heating element has failed.

There are other possible faults which would cause the element not to heat, but these often prevent the dishwasher from completing the cycle. If the water is cold but the dishwasher still drains the water at the end - and completes the cycle - the heating element has probably failed.

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- Else, place a service call to the tech of your choice.
  

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