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Wiring Color code for circuit board terminalstrip 1-9? I put it on a piece of paper and my new puppy distroyed it....

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What is needed are the numbers associated with the unit. You will need the brand, both model and serial (if it has one). Then the board needs to be described in detail, size, and so on (possible numbers on the board as well, may help).
Go to the Internet and search for your model you have, asking for the circuit board information. You may be able to find a repair or service manual for this unit on the NET.
Search for "service manual" or "repair manual". One of those will bring some results.

Posted on Jul 26, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My microwave says "SE" or "5E" and won't work. What does this mean?


The problem lies with the mylar ribbon cable that connects the Keypad to the circuit board. The Mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself and are touching. Over time the mylar 'breaks down' electrically and the wire traces in the mylar will 'arc' onto the other mylar ribbon cable. The solution is to separate the two mylar ribbon cables using paper and electrical tape. I've done this on several microwaves (not just Samsung) and it has worked every time. Patience and about 20 minutes is all it should take to fix it. I've described below how I did it for the SMH9187ST Microwave Good luck to all.

1. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. 1. Remove the top front cover by removing the (2) screws that are along the top edge (phillips).

3. 2. Slide the cover to the left about a half inch (there are tabs holding the cover in place) and remove.

4. 3. Remove (1) screw from the top of the Keypad Housing (phillips). Lift the Keypad Housing upwards about half an inch (there are tabs holding the Keypad Housing in place) and remove. Be careful of the metal grille that is just above the Keypad Housing as this may fall out since it is being held in place by the Housing.

5. 4. Be careful not to pull on the wiring harnesses that are attached to the Housing. Carefully unplug the wiring harness that has the RED connector on it from the circuit board. Carefully unplug the small white connector that has the mylar ribbon cable on it (this cable is see-through and you can see thin, flat wires in it).

6. 5. Remove (4) screws that are holding the circuit board onto the Housing.

7. The Housing should now be free of the circuit board and wiring harnesses. It's safe to let the wiring harness/circuit board hang free, but caution should be used anyway.

8. 6. Remove the thin metal frame from the Housing. There are (4) plastic tabs holding the frame in place. Using a small screw driver pry one side of the frame away from the housing (try to do this to the side that has smaller plastic tabs). When this side of the frame is free of the Housing you have to lift the frame out at an angle to remove. It might put up a fuss, but be patient and be gentle with it since the frame is thin and fragile.

9. 7. With the frame out of the way you will see the mylar ribbon cable that is coming out from underneath the Keypad assembly. You will notice that the mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself as it re-enters the Keypad assembly. This 'touching of the two ribbon cables' is where the trouble lies. The ribbon cables may be stuck together. Carefully separate these two and then insert a small piece of paper between them (paper can be 1/2 x 1/2 ) and work the paper all the way down into the Keypad assembly as far as it will go.

10. 8. Using electrical tape, apply a small piece between the ribbon cables to hold the paper in place. Next, use more electrical tape and put it between the mylar ribbon cables enough so as to keep the ribbon cables separated.

11. 9. Re-attached the thin metal frame making sure to press it into the Keypad assembly enough so that the (4) tabs click into place.

12. 10. Use electrical tape and apply it to the raw metal edge of the thin metal frame to prevent the mylar ribbon cables from rubbing on the metal edge.

13. 11. That's it. A final word of caution. Be careful when inserting the ribbon cable connector back on to the circuit board. The connector is loose and you need to gently place the ribbon cable into the circuit board connector.

14. 12. Reverse the order of assembly from above.

15. 13. Plug in the microwave and then it should reset and ask you to set the time.

Best of luck to you

Dec 29, 2014 | Maytag Appliances Over-the-Range Microwave...

1 Answer

I have a intermatic ET1125C I have 30 amp fused load coming in,how EXACTLY do I wire it in and TWO independent outs for load 1 load 2 ? The diagrams are confusing I need to know color wire to #1-6 on the...


10-22-12
Intermatic ET1125 240Volt, two independent circuit Wiring absolutely shows on following link: Wire colors can vary. 240Volt line can be black-white, or red-white, or black-black. Non-code wiring can be white-white.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Intermatic-ET-series-timer.html#1125

I have no idea what color wires you have. Or if circuit tests for 240V.
Include a photograph of your wiring, and list showing voltage on each wire, and color of each wire, and description where each wire comes from.
You should have two Hot wires L1 L2 coming from 30 amp breaker.
And 2 wires going to each Load (light, fan, motor).
Wire size should be at least 10 gauge.

Turn power ON, stand on dry boards, tape tester leads to wood sticks, and test each wire to bare ground.
240Volt circuit will have two hot wires.

Oct 22, 2012 | Hardware & Accessories

2 Answers

Samsung microwave shows SE on display


The problem lies with the mylar ribbon cable that connects the Keypad to the circuit board. The Mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself and are touching. Over time the mylar 'breaks down' electrically and the wire traces in the mylar will 'arc' onto the other mylar ribbon cable. The solution is to separate the two mylar ribbon cables using paper and electrical tape. I've done this on several microwaves (not just Samsung) and it has worked every time. Patience and about 20 minutes is all it should take to fix it. I've described below how I did it for the SMH9187ST Microwave Good luck to all.

1. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2. 1. Remove the top front cover by removing the (2) screws that are along the top edge (phillips).

3. 2. Slide the cover to the left about a half inch (there are tabs holding the cover in place) and remove.

4. 3. Remove (1) screw from the top of the Keypad Housing (phillips). Lift the Keypad Housing upwards about half an inch (there are tabs holding the Keypad Housing in place) and remove. Be careful of the metal grille that is just above the Keypad Housing as this may fall out since it is being held in place by the Housing.

5. 4. Be careful not to pull on the wiring harnesses that are attached to the Housing. Carefully unplug the wiring harness that has the RED connector on it from the circuit board. Carefully unplug the small white connector that has the mylar ribbon cable on it (this cable is see-through and you can see thin, flat wires in it).

6. 5. Remove (4) screws that are holding the circuit board onto the Housing.

7. The Housing should now be free of the circuit board and wiring harnesses. It's safe to let the wiring harness/circuit board hang free, but caution should be used anyway.

8. 6. Remove the thin metal frame from the Housing. There are (4) plastic tabs holding the frame in place. Using a small screw driver pry one side of the frame away from the housing (try to do this to the side that has smaller plastic tabs). When this side of the frame is free of the Housing you have to lift the frame out at an angle to remove. It might put up a fuss, but be patient and be gentle with it since the frame is thin and fragile.

9. 7. With the frame out of the way you will see the mylar ribbon cable that is coming out from underneath the Keypad assembly. You will notice that the mylar ribbon cable folds back onto itself as it re-enters the Keypad assembly. This 'touching of the two ribbon cables' is where the trouble lies. The ribbon cables may be stuck together. Carefully separate these two and then insert a small piece of paper between them (paper can be 1/2 x 1/2 ) and work the paper all the way down into the Keypad assembly as far as it will go.

10. 8. Using electrical tape, apply a small piece between the ribbon cables to hold the paper in place. Next, use more electrical tape and put it between the mylar ribbon cables enough so as to keep the ribbon cables separated.

11. 9. Re-attached the thin metal frame making sure to press it into the Keypad assembly enough so that the (4) tabs click into place.

12. 10. Use electrical tape and apply it to the raw metal edge of the thin metal frame to prevent the mylar ribbon cables from rubbing on the metal edge.

13. 11. That's it. A final word of caution. Be careful when inserting the ribbon cable connector back on to the circuit board. The connector is loose and you need to gently place the ribbon cable into the circuit board connector.

14. 12. Reverse the order of assembly from above.

15. 13. Plug in the microwave and then it should reset and ask you to set the time.

16. Hope this works for you !!

Jun 13, 2012 | Samsung SMH9187ST Microwave Oven

2 Answers

D4 lite flashes


Flashing D4 light is an error from the TCU (transmission control unit), so you got something going on with your transmission. If you want to pull the error code, remove the passengers side kick panel and look for a pair of wires with a blue connector at the end. Stick a paper clip or some other piece of wire into each hole of the connector to short the wires. Put your key in the ignition and turn 2 clicks. The D4 light will flash the code...short flashes=1 and long flashes=10. Add the number of short and long flashes to get your code. Errors are below:

0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty.
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

Hope helps.

Aug 03, 2011 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Dual receptacles (hot all the time) next to dual rocker switches. One switch controls a light, the other a disposal. I've got three black and one white wire ( ground). The post set up on the rockers...


What are you doing? I can't figure it out.
I think you have a new double rocker switch and you are trying to replace a double toggle switch and you don't know which side to put your wires?
The screws are color coded. Look at the screw colors on old and new switches and follow same pattern.

If this is incorrect, answer back and I will help.

If you are adding another circuit.
That means running a new wire into the box to power another receptacle box, or to switch another light fixture.
If this is the case, the best place to connect any new circuit is the existing receptacle.
Connect new black wire to brass colored screw
Connect new white wire to silver colored screw.

Oct 25, 2010 | Pass & Seymour #660IGU 15A Ivory SP Toggle...

1 Answer

92 honda accord D4 light flashing


Flashing D4 light is an error from the TCU (transmission control unit), so you got something going on with your transmission. If you want to pull the error code, remove the passengers side kick panel and look for a pair of wires with a blue connector at the end. Stick a paper clip or some other piece of wire into each hole of the connector to short the wires. Put your key in the ignition and turn 2 clicks. The D4 light will flash the code...short flashes=1 and long flashes=10. Add the number of short and long flashes to get your code. Errors are below:

0-Transmission control unit (TCU) faulty.
1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

Aug 11, 2010 | 1992 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Fliter queen repair


Hi there,
I generally don't like answering questions like this cause it could lead to unwanted problems. But I will say that if the individual wires are color-coded (each wire is a different color and can easily be determined which go to which) and you are handy with some electrical tape and know about how to make wires connect, then you may be able to do this yourself.

If you are NOT able to determine which wires go to which wire, I definitely do NOT recommend you trying to this yourself.

If it is obvious to you which wires go to which, splice them to clean edges, connect metal to metal, wrap two connecting wires tightly with electrical tape, then once all wires are wrapped to one another, bunch all together and wrap all with electrical tape. That's it.

It's fairly simple, but again, YOU MUST, I STRESS MUST be able to distinguish which wires match which wires from the detached (thanks to dear sweet puppy) wires. :) Bad puppy!

Hope this helps at least some. A good repair person shouldn't charge that much to do it for you.

Best, Jenn

Jul 07, 2010 | Filter Queen Cheetah II Ash - MU305...

2 Answers

Mitsubishi ws55513


there is a small piece of a ground strap under the DM module that the metal case has to engage

Jan 22, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-55513 55" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

7310 office jet all in one - black ink problem


You are right about the "extended paper clip".

Here's what I found when this happend on my two 7410's. Take a look at where the ink cartridge slides into it's holder. Shine a flashlight on the circuit board at the rear. You will no doubt find it has a puncture in it that breaks the little tracer wires on the board. The culpret is the tension spring arm. It likely has come off it's base support and when that happens, and you install a new cartridge, the cartridge will push the tip of the tension wire g right into the circuit board. After you fix the circuit board, apply some silicone glue to the spring base mount to hold it in place. I hope I can find the part and remove and replace it easily. That I haven't done yet.

Mar 31, 2008 | HP OfficeJet 7410 All-In-One InkJet...

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