Question about Krups FLF2 Cordless Electric Kettle

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The kettle leaks at where teh handle attaches at the bottom

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Join the club ---I'm taking ours back this afternoon to BB&B. It's still under warranty and we have the receipt.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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My Kettle is leaking too from the bottom of the handle. I don't have my receipt. :-/

Posted on May 10, 2015

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I was successful at fixing my Krups Electric Kettle for $4. In my case the water was leaking from bottom somewhere close to the heating area. I think that a small hole was created in the seal around the heating area in the bottom of the inside of the kettle. One can try to find the general location of the leak by putting a small amount of water in the kettle, place the kettle in a larger pan, and tilt the kettle so that the water is slightly higher than the heating area in one area only noting the position where the water level is above the heating area. Leave it for a while and check for leakage. If there is none, rotate the kettle a few degrees so that you have a new high point and look again for leakage from the new area until you find the area where it is leaking. Alternatively you may wish to put a sealant around the entire area, 360 degrees, around the top of the heating area. You mayl have to remove the strainer first to get your hand in the kettle to apply the sealant.

I went to my local hardware store and looked for sealants that were:
1. Potable (ie safe since you will be using the water for coffee, tea, and other applications that you ingest).
2. That will withstand heat up to at least 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that water boils at 212 degrees.
I found epoxies that required mixing two compounds but decided that this would be difficult to deal with and apply. In the end I bought "PC Plumbing Epoxy Putty" from PC-Products. This met both requirements and was easy yo use. You take the putty and roll it between your finger just like you did in kindergarten with the clay and make a thin string that you could position in the crevice around the top of the heating area. You may either cover the area where you found the leak or the entire 360 degrees. You will note a somewhat foul smell of the putty. The manufacturers says that it will cure in 3 hours. I found that the smell went away when it completely dried and hardened after 3 weeks!.
I will assume that the same solution is applicable to leaks in other areas of the kettle. I have also found that there are equivalent electric kettles much cheaper than Krups. I would certainly check the construction to see if there is one with less of a chance to develop a leak.
But the bottom line is that it cost me $4. I just finished testing the Electric Kettle and it is fine, not leaking, and the instant coffee did not have any bad smell.

Meir Elazar

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

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It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
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To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
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That is correct, the flat plastic rod that pulls when you depress the on/off button is attached to a switch lever under the bottom of the handle. The rod in mine broke off right where it connects to that switch lever. You can either try and find the new or used part, Braun may have new, I have not tried their 800 number, can't hurt? I fix everything from scratch though and rebuild when I can especially if parts are scarce or obsolete. So I used some marine putty to affix the rod end back to the lever. Marine putty is a stick with two putties you roll together for a rock hard compound, awesome stuff. You can get at Wally World or hardware, auto parts, boat supply stores. I also drilled very small holes in the broken rod on each side and the lever on each side and threaded some thin stainless steel wire through, just looped it around without twisting it togethor before putting the putty over it for a permanent, wire reinforced, fix.The handle is not screwed on exception of one little torx screw at very bottom of handle on base. The handle just snaps together. The base or bottom and 3 screws do not need to be removed either for this rod and lever fix. Remove the top 'cover' piece of the handle first, then remove the two brass pins under it at top next to the on/off button second. So, the handle 'snaps' off with a lock blade knife or equivalent, get under the handle pieces with knife edge and twist the blade, it will pop off as you go, be prepared to break a few little hook pieces off underneath, they break but it seems to snap back on ok anyway. Crazy glue alone won't hold these plastic pieces together btw, try another way, wire and putty, maybe a plastic welding kit etc.. Mine works great again, once I got the lever reattached to the rod..

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