Question about Kenmore Dryers
The most common cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse, bad power cord, or a broken drum belt.
If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct, check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. You should read 220-240VAC at the wall receptacle and terminal block. If BOTH readings are good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad at the receptacle, you need to double check the power source that feeds the wall receptacle. Some homes use two separate 120VAC breakers instead of one 220-240VAC breaker. Make sure the breaker(s) is not tripped. If the reading is normal at the wall receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, replace your power cord.
If the problem is internal, the thermal fuse will be mounted on the blower fan housing. It is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad. The thermal fuse can be accessed by UNPLUGGING the unit and removing the REAR panel behind the dryer. With the panel removed, the thermal fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the lower LEFT-HAND side.
NOTE: For an exploded view diagram of your dryer, refer to any of the following websites:
The Thermal Fuse is listed as item 59 under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. This could be an indication that you have a clog in the ventilation system, causing the dryer to overheat. Do a thorough inspection of your dryer, BEFORE replacing any defective parts. Failure to do so, may result in repeated failures of the same parts.
If the dryer belt is broken on this model dryer, the dryer will still heat, but the drum will not turn. You would still be able to hear the motor running if this was the case. The dryer would still produce heat as well. If your dryer does not exhibit these symptoms, then your belt may still be good.
Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.
The door switch is listed as item 41 under the "Cabinet Parts" section.
Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:
All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:
These solutions are not all inclusive, but are the more common failure items. The more expensive options are a defective timer or drive motor. If you have any questions about these repairs, or need instructions on how to access any of these components, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Nov 14, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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