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Re: replacing Kenmore dryer parts
That one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in
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All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.
The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.
you will need to open the dryer and look at the element, if you have a meter you will need to ohm it out, but more then likely the thermal fuse is bad. In order to test, test only after test disconnect the bypass, you will need to bypass the fuse: take the two spaded ends off the thermal fuse and tape them together then turn dryer on if you have heat you will need to replace fuse, can be purchased online. eBay is the cheapest but can be purchase from a appliance sales/repair shop, Tim:
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.
You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.
Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.
The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components.
Disconnect power then access
the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect
the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it
properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is
indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if
the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem.
It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number
of the dryer should you need further assistance.
Dryers with lint filter on the front.
Dryers with lint filter on the top.
Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.
The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.
Your correct model number is 110.86870100. Manufactured by Whirlpool. You can find replacement parts at searspartdirect.com. Just type in the model number I provided and follow the links on the next page. The heating circuit components are listed under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading. Use the helpful illustrations for easy part identification. Accessing your heater components are easy on this model dryer. All you have to do in UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel. The heating element, thermal cut-out and hi-limit thermostat will be on the right-hand side (facing from the rear). The blower fan assembly will be on the left hand side. Using the parts listing on the Sears website, the following components are suspect if it is a heating circuit problem:
Item 1 (part #279769) Thermal cut-out w/ Hi-limit thermostat - sold as a set and recommended to be replaced at the same time if one or the other is found to be defective.
Item 14 (part #4391960) Heating Element.
Read through the link I provided and follow the steps. Try to rule out the common sense things BEFORE assuming parts are defective. You may want pay particular attention the paragraph explaining proper vent ducting maintenance and installation. If you do not maintain the ducting properly the heating circuits will eventually fail again due to overheating.
Please post back if you have questions and/or require additional assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.
You will need to UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel to access. The heating element is located inside the heater box on the right-hand side of the dryer (facing from the back). Simply disconnect, the wires leads and remove the mounting screws to remove.
Now...you mentioned removing the thermal fuse. Did you check the thermal cut-out or the hi-limit thermostat? These components are small silver disc-shaped devices mounted on the heater box assembly. As you are facing the back of the dryer, the hi-limit thermostat is located near the terminal connections of the heating element. The thermal cut-out is located farthest away from the heating element closer to the top of the heater box. Usually when you have a no heat problem, it the thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, or heating element that goes bad. If the thermal fuse is bad, you generally have a dryer that not only won't heat, but won't even turn on. I hope I'm not confusing you. In a nut shell, there's a difference between the thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. If you had large accumulations of lint in your dryer, I would bet you have a blown thermal cut-out.
If you wish to check the parts listing yourself to make sure you have the correct parts, go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading. The thermal cut-out kit is what you need to order for a no heat problem. It's listed as item #1 (part #279816). This also includes the hi-limit thermostat. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace BOTH of these components at the same time. The heating element is listed as item #14 (part #279838).
Look under the "view diagram" heading and you can see where all these components are located, using the exploded view of the dryer assembly. The thermal fuse you mention is listed as item #59 in the drawing and is located on the air baffle housing.
This is still an easy fix. I just want to make sure you're identifying the correct parts. I don't think you want to purchase parts you don't need.
I hope this helps you. If I've managed to confuse you, please post back with your questions and I can guide you in the right direction.