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My Maytag bought at Sears MSD2756AE startedd getting warm. I found it was frosted / frozen in the freeezer compartment. I defrosted the freezer and things seemed to retrurn to mostly normal but the fridge section of the machine was running warmer even though the setting was above (colder) normal. Now the fridge is getting warmer above 40 degrees and climbing. There are 2 plastic pieces which appear to be long plastic strips which fell out of the fridge portion when I went to take it apart (the machine had been previously serviced a few years ago for not working a part was replaced under warranty at that time. These parts have on the back side symbols and letters first symbol appears to look like an evergreen tree with arrows going up and down in a circular clockwise direction followed by >PS-HI< 78221 this is on the back of these two pieces 4 times. These don't appear to fit in the fridge anywhere. When we went to take the shelving sections in the fridge apart they just all fell into themselves without taking anmore than the top piece out. So I have no idea where (if) these parts go somewhere or not. The frige temp is still climbing and I have concerns as to what could be causing this. The freezer which was running at 0 degrees is now at -10 dgrees. I am questioning the defrost control on the freezer but am also questioning the fan which transfers cool air to the fridge portion as although the "flapper is moving it doesn't appear to be opening and closing fully or regularly. It does appear to be opening but only patially. This fridge was purchased new and from day one made an odd occasional clunking sound which stopped completely after I defrosted the freeer. I can't afford to replace this appliance at the moment and have been looking for a manual for this machine so I can do some effective troubleshooting. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am now at a loss. Ian Fraser

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  • complogic1 Nov 14, 2010

    Thank you for the info i will try this tomorrow and see what i find out

    If it does work then I will be happy until the next problem with this Maytag piece of *

  • complogic1 Nov 14, 2010

    While we work on adding the Maytag MSD2756AEB Refrigerator manual, let's solve your problem

  • complogic1 Nov 14, 2010

    the site about the manuals does not work i have tried 6 different attempts with different manuals and come up with the same comment. Please wait etc.

  • complogic1 Nov 14, 2010

    Thanks for the info I will try it tomorrow.

  • complogic1 Nov 14, 2010

    By the way the link to the manual site does NOT work they just come back saying please wait while we try and find a copy of this manual.


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Thank you for contacting

First let me help you with the internet link where you can find the exact manual for your fridge.
The defrost thermostat is the correct part to be questioned in the issue your are facing. It contacts open at approximately +43°F. And close at approximately +15°F.The defrost thermostat has a 240K ohm resistor connected internally across the two terminals.
This resistor permits checking the defrost heater when the evaporator temperature is +15°F. or higher. You should also test the ADC. Before you do the ADC test, turn the Freezer Control all the way COLD, so that the Compressor is running. That way, you'll be able to tell when (and if) the ADC Relay clicks the Compressor off and should switch the Defrost Heater on. Also check the air-return vent behind the centre crisper drawer, there should be"cellophane" "flapper door" that you can see how much air is flowing: The Damper Door 1" x 4" plastic door Sears Parts $ 44 Repair Clinic $ 34.Therefore the three parts that you need to look for are:

Bad defrost timer, Bad defrost heater (in freezer), Bad thermo switch in freezer.

Please get back to us if you have any further query.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

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I'll send you some diagrams by email
Let me know if you need additional assistance after that.
Thank yoiu for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

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2 Answers

Fridge is warm freezer is cold

Hello Abo Karin,

You are likely experiencing a DEFROST failure
(most commonly a defrost PCB failure)...
part number 67006740 item 5 on your exploded
case view (top center as viewed from the front).

There are typically only three (3) elements to a DEFROST
power control circuit:
- Defrost Printed Circuit Board ( PCB as noted above)

- Heater element to WARM the EVAPORATOR

- DEFROST thermostat... inhibit excess heat
(closed circuit at freezing - Opens at room temperature)

Check your defrost pan...
there should be water there DAILY...

IF not: you are assured that your DEFROST fails.

You need to look for a SUDDEN REASON (huge air leak)
why FROST would form so quickly...
USUALLY a big pizza box... BUT ANYTHING blocking a
TIGHT DOOR SEAL will cause massive frosting.

It is taking moisture from the WARM ROOM AIR and blocking your evaporator...

a PROPERLY functioning defrost circuit would remove that frost
at least DAILY... and the EVAPORATOR fan would properly chill the refrigerated side blowing cold air from the FREEZER.

Yes ... all INTERIOR panels must be in place for the refrigerator to function properly.

Hope this helps

Your part... (see video instructions)

Sears... (I don't USUALLY recommend for purchase)

also see other .com retailers
PartSelect Appliance Parts and Repair Help

Appliance Parts Lawn Mower Parts Heating Cooling Parts 365 day returns

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Refrigerator doesn t get cold

If your refrigerator is frost free and been running for a year or two then here is the solution.
Why would you need to defrost a frost-free freezer? Because they do sometimes get frosted up! This is especially common if the door gets left open for long periods without being noticed, then shut again, thereby trapping lots of moist air in the freezer, which can only come out as frost. The problem is that if their defrosting cycles don't manage to cure their problems they get frosted up at the back, out of sight. If your freezer seems to be struggling to keep things frozen but is otherwise working normally you should consider defrosting it before concluding it is broken.

I have found the best way to defrost my not quite frost free fridge-freezer is to empty the freezer compartment contents into the fridge and switch it off overnight, leaving the fridge door shut and the freezer door open. By stacking all the frozen food together as tightly as possible, ideally wrapped in something to help insulate them (such as newspapers) they stay cold for a long time. In the morning I get in my scruffy clothes and wipe up the puddles caused by the visible frost in the freezer and any puddles formed underneath the appliance. However this is only half the story. To ensure all the frosting has been removed from the hidden parts of the appliance I get my hair dryer and blast warm air into all appropriate crevices from inside the appliance and from behind it.

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Refrigerator temp is 66 degrees, way too warm. Freezer seems that all food is frozen and normal. I have opened the refrigerator several times in a fairly short period of time this morning. Set refrigerator...

Yes it does sound like it could be a component of the defrost system thats the problem OR the fan in the freezer that circulates cold air into the fresh food compartment

If ya see frost build up on the back wall of the freezer and do indeed hear the fan running it will be a defrost problem

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The way to clear the drain is remove back plate and remove all ice build up and GENTLY make a small hole in drain through then totally flush w/warm water.
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The defroster is not working. Ice build up prevents cold air from the freezer chest from blowing into the lower part.

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I think your defrost timer doesn't turn. You can turn it with a screw driver till you hear a click. Now your ice compartment should be defrosting. With ice buildup it may need lots and lots of defrosting. You might not get cooling back into the lower part for awhile, till the ice buildup melts.

By the preceding, you should know if the defrost timer needs replacing.

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