Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

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Ingnator replacement One of the gas oven ignators of my oven got a short circuite and the complete oven ( control pannel) shot down. My question is : Do this pannel has a fuse that burned when the short circuite happen or there is a posibility that the short circuite burn the pannel? I am buying the ignator and I want to know how verify the condition of the pannel.. Thanks for your help in advance JG

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Oven Control not working

Vahid, is the display black, nothing there? Try pressing the bake and broil pads together for 3 seconds until display shows SF. Then press clock. If this doesn't work try the ERC test by doing this; Kill the power to the range for 10 seconds. Press the cooking time, delay start and number 8 pads all together. The display should show the word test. Give this a shot first....Catriver..post back.

Posted on Nov 12, 2006

revamos
  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Baking Element Caught fire

this a common complaint when the element burns out it is scary to see but all you need to do is replace element

Posted on Apr 21, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: maytag stove MGS5770ADB - Burners will not light - ignators

The spark module should be behind the rear panel of the range, or behind the bottom drawer, mounted on the interior back wall. If you go to searspartsdirect.com, the part is listed as item number 22 under the "Gas Controls" heading. The part number is 74004283. Just type in your model number and follow the links on the next page. There are helpful drawings to assist you. If in doubt, trace the wires from the the surface igniters and they all will lead back to the spark module. I hope this information helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on Jun 21, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: The oven doesn't work ,the

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: Oven temp control not working

you need to calibrate the oven.

go to this web site

http://genet.geappliances.com/geasearch/Dispatcher?REQUEST=GETSEARCHRESULT

the second in the list is your solution

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

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F3 E0 5 Top oven sensor open Check for open circuit. Sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K @ room temperature. If not, replace the sensor. F3 E1 6 Top oven shorted Check for shorted sensor circuit, otherwise replace sensor F3 E2 9 Bake range over temperature At room temperature, sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K. If not, replace the sensor. If the sensor checks okay, replace the control. F3 E3 8 Clean range over temperature At room temperature, sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K. If not, replace the sensor. If the sensor checks okay, replace the control. F3 E4 10 Bottom oven sensor open Check for open circuit. Sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K @ room temperature. If not, replace the sensor. F3 E5 15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Check for shorted sensor circuit, otherwise replace senso

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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
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2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
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The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

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