Question about Kenmore Dryers

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I have a Kenmore electric dryer that tumbles and blows, but no heat. The heating element has continuity at the terminals. The heating element thermostat had no continuity, and has been replaced. The thermal fuse has continuity. The exhaust fuse has continuity at the larger terminals, no continuity at the smaller terminals. Each terminal of the element has 120volts to ground, but I get no reading across the terminals. There in some sort of terminal block mounted higher on the heating "tunnel". It has the same Red/Red-White wires as the heating element, and also gets 120v to ground, but no reading across the terminals. Any ideas?

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  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    As mentioned above, this item had no continuity, and has been replaced. P

  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    Thermosensor already has been replaced. Problem still exists.

  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    Model# 110 66812690 66812.

    As mentinoed above, I get 120v to ground from each terminal on the heating element terminal block, but not 220v across the terminals. What is the teminal block higher in the heat tunnel? It covers an opening similar to the thermosat opening, but is mounted on a flat piece of sheet metal. This unit also By the way, this unit also has 120v to ground from each terminal but not 220v across the terminals. Also, there appears to be no continuity through this terminal block.

  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    I wasn't clear on your question. There are 220v across the two wires on the main terminal block....the block where the pigtails from the cord are connected.

  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    I do have 220 across he main contacts

  • keanedave Nov 14, 2010

    #1 has no continuity.
    What is #1?
    What is its function?
    Do you have its part number ?
    Can I jump the wires to test thee dryer's heating operation?
    If successful, can I temporarily operate the dryer with the wires jumped until I can replace the part?

    Thank you.

  • keanedave Nov 15, 2010

    HiLimit thermal sensor bad. jumping wires proved it.\ Very thorough and helpful. Thank you.

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If your remove the two wire from the from the thermal sensor that is above the heating element connection and there is no continuity then it needs to be replace and your dryer will heat.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • seth adams Nov 14, 2010

    what is your model number so i can pull a manual.also need to make sure there is 220 volts across the red and black wires on the terminal block.

  • seth adams Nov 14, 2010

    terminal block is where you main power wire is and connected to the dryer if you do not have 220 volts across the two outer contacts then you have a problem with your main power.also trying to upload a picture of the back of a dryer and have you try other checks

  • seth adams Nov 14, 2010

    hope you can see the numbers.numbers 42,1,34,14 should all have continuity on them with the wires disconnected,the heating element can be checked if you remove it and check the leads on the inde of it or look to see if there is a break.if there is no continuitty on any of then it needs to be replaced.

  • seth adams Nov 14, 2010

    yes you can jump them and it is the high limit thermal sensor.but i do not recommend them being jump because the unit can get to hot and not shut of when needed in order to cycle the heating properly.the part number is 3399848 and they run about thirty dollars from a local parts supplier

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Dryer tumbles but does not put out heat



Make sure the unit is not plugged in when testing these fuses.You should also check the continuity on the heating element if all fuses check out as good.You may also need to check the main power at the terminal block and make sure you have 220 volts to the terminal block.These are all located on the rear of the dryer remove the back panel to get to them.


This is the most common locations for thermal fuses and heating element on Whirlpool,Kenmore,Estate dryers. Check these fuses for continuity and replace the one that does not have continuityseth765.jpgseth765_0.jpg

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Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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Power from the house:
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element:
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse:
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring : A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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Fuses Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Please revert for further assistance and Do rate the solution as FixYa if found useful.

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1 Answer

Kenmore dryer


Hi!

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring

Power from the house

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Do rate the solution as FIxya if you find this solution helpful.

Thanks

Rylee

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1 Answer

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If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Hope this may help;

Rgards,
VOTIT

DON'T FORGET TO RATE;

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1 Answer

Dryer won't heat


i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.


Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.


Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)


Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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