a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The Matco is very similar to the IR-315 straight line sander as well as the Central Pneumatic Straight Line Sander sold by Harbor Freight-shown here: The Central Pneumatic became the focus of my attention when I realized it was not timed properly after re-assembly!
Assuming you are having the same problem,(1) I recommend mounting the body upside down in a small vise as shown here:
(2)Rotate both piston gears full forward (to the left in this photo). (3)Then carefully rotate each toward the back end precisely three teeth (to the right in this photo). It is important to note: Begin counting to the precise 3rd tooth once the first tooth is near top center in step (2). Thus, if after rotating the gears forward until they stop, you ideally want a tooth visible right at the top center. If the tooth is not at top center, move the gear(s) slightly toward the back until the very first tooth is now centered up: then begin counting to the 3rd tooth. If after rotating the gears forward until they stop, a tooth is NEARLY at top center: use it as your starting point and count to the third tooth (step 3). I recommend wiping the oil/ grease off of these two centered teeth and coating them with red majic marker.
(4) Reference next picture: Hover cursor near rotary air valve gear.
The dotted gear lobe should be a 1 oclock, assuming 12 oclock is in line with the center of the body toward the knob end of unit. Note the piston gears are marked for the centered 3rd tooth. Note the two teeth on each side of the center valley(s) of the rail gears are highlighted as well.
(5) I recommend marking the valley after the tooth that follows the dotted tooth and verifying its position is at 3 oclock. Notice in the background that the center tooth is highligted (it is the fifth tooth from either end of that straight gear on the rack).Also reference the second photo after step (6):
(6) visually confirm all teeth are in perfect alignment for placing the rack upon the unit:
(7) Simply place the rack onto the unit's body making sure all your marks are centered up. If correctly lined up, you will incur no resistance or offsetting. If rack does not simply "lie onto the gears", lift back off and re-check the alignment of each of the teeth and valleys. A slight movement of one of the piston gears is usually the cure.
(8) re-attach the rack retainer bars with at least 2 screws on each side before moving the unit.
(9) you should visually be able to see about 1-1/2" of rack movement from the unit by pushing the rack to its limits. A centered rack measures approx. 15/16" on both ends of unit to the center of the bolt in the rack.
I work in a wood working shop and we use orbitals on everything. You still will still sand with nice even strokes with the grain. It leaves a great finish. They are nice, light, and easy to use! They do use a lot of air though, so make sure your air compressor can handle the one you buy. If you compressor is constantly running you might have to take breaks so you do not burn it up. enjoy!
the inside of the tool is full of dust not allowing it to get into the bag. I have had to completely disassemble and clean the track for the dust. You can try blowing thru every port with compressed air and see if that helps.
There can be a few problems. First is your air supply the right pressure and volume for the sander. Check that at the quick connector to the sander itself. Second, if it is cold and moisture is high, ice can get into the sander which will slow it way down. Third, and probably most likely cause, is the sander well oiled and the parts inside clean. Fourth, mechanical issues: the drive motor may be well worn out inside, the bearing that the main shaft for the sander may be worn out & so forth. Hope this helps you, Rick
# Ensure that sanding belts are not too tight or too loose. Never operate a sanding disk if the paper is loose.
# Use the correct grade of abrasive material for the job.
# Ensure that the distance between a circular sander and the edge of the table is not greater than 1/4 inch.
# Do not push materials against sanders with excessive force.
# Sand only on the downstroke side of a disk sander.
# Do not hold small pieces by hand. Use a jig for pieces that are difficult to hold securely