I have a dual 10 in. visonik sub setup. They are already in a box and it also came with an amp. I'm unsure about the wattage of this system. About 3 yrs after having this system one of the speakers stopped playing sound. I figured it was the amp so I bought a new one. I got a 600w visonik, 4 channel. I hooked up the subs to this amp. I wired the left speaker to channel 2 and the right speaker to channel 1. But, the left speaker still does not work. I checked the speaker leads and everything seems to be connected just fine...i checked the wiring to the head unit...everything seems fine...idk wat the hell could be wrong...do u? thanks.
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I honestly would go with 2 12 inch dual 2 ohm subs and wire them one per amp. That will give you a 1 ohm load to each amp and will give the HCCA's 2500 rms per sub... It will be stupid loud... 10s hit tighter than 12's usually and 12's tighter than 15's but u will get more air movement out of a 15 than the 12's and 10s... but... 2 10's require say a 4 cubic foot box to perform well... 2 12's require a 5 cubic foot box to perform well and 2 15's require about 7 to 10 cubic foot to perform to their fullest... no matter what if you put a sub in a box that's too small it will not perform or sound like what you want it to... go 2 12's and like a 5.50 cubic foot box or a 6 cubic foot box and you will love it...
i would wire the coils of each sub in series which would yield an 8 ohm resistive load per sub - and then wire the subs in parallel to the amp which would bring the resistance back to 4 ohms for a bridged load which will give you max power handling from the subs and draw the full power of the amp at the same time
MOST OF THE TIME AMPLIFIED BOXES ARE EASYER THAN REG AMPS, ALL U HAVE TO DO IS RUN UR RCAS FROM THE BACK OF UR HEAD UNIT TO THE AMP, THAN UR POWER LEAD, FROM UR BATTERY TO THE AMP, THEN UR GROUND MOSTLY ON THE FRAM OF THE CAR OR ON THE BRACKETS ON UR SEATS, THATS MAINLY ALL U NEED TO NO.
You did not say whether or not you checked the wiring going to your subs. Many times, a shorted or grounded speaker wire will cause an amp to fail. And if the amp powers up OK with the subs disconnected, I'd suspect one or more of the wires.
If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX122, with dual 2ohm voice coils, they can be connected to a mono amp at 2ohms. First jumper the voice coils in series, the dotted positive (+) to the undotted negative (-) (or vice versa). Each sub is now 4ohms. Then wire both of the remaining positives and negatives together on the amp terminals (in parallel). The amp sees a 2ohm load. Here's the diagram:
If you have the Kicker model number 06CVX124 with dual 4ohm voice coils, they cannot be wired to present a 2ohm load. They can only be wired as a 1ohm load (too low for the amp) or as a 4ohm load (at reduced power). Here is the diagram of the 4ohm wiring:
disconnect speaker,turn gain down to about 10%.repower amp check and see if protection light comes on.if it does recheck power,remote,ground,if it doesent go into protection then kill power and rewire speakers
the amp is going into protect mode due to something wrong in the amp or some thing in the wiring to it ooh yea if you are getting 18v power to the amp that is way to high it should not be higher then 15v if the amp is in protect mode it will not play at all.
first i have to ask if you ran the rcas on the same side as you did your power wires. that would result in the interference you're recieving. the rcas should be on one side of the vehicle and the power wires on the other. if you're unsure of the grounding site then take the time to properly clean it and reinstall. also understand that you amp having adequate breathing room is very important. without enough airspace your amp will surely overheat.