Question about Intermatic Inc. EJ500C Digital Wall Switch Timer - Self-Adjusting Feature

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New switch GE model 15265 ... to light up 2 lightbulbs outside. Old switch all cables are black. Those who light up the tester are the hot=Red/black?? Those which do not light up are white?? Green I know ... so how do I connect this switch? Is model 15265 ok for 2 lights?

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Manual for GE 15265
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
15A timer works fine on two bulbs, up to 1440 total watts.

If old switch has 2 screws plus green ground screw, then timer is right.
If old switch has 3 screws plus green ground screw, 15265 doesn't replace 3-way switch.

Timer-green wire connects to bare ground wire

Old switch has 2 screws with wires on each.
One wire is Hot-from breaker and this connects to timer-black wire.
One wire Goes-to-lights and this connects to timer-red wire.
If you get these two wires reversed, timer will not work, so reverse them.
It will not blow circuit if the timer-red and timer-black wires are reversed.

Timer-White wire is the confusing wire for everybody:
Timer-white wire runs clock motor located inside timer.
In back of electric box are neutral white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
Connect timer-white to these neutral wires.
If box does not have neutral white wires, connect timer-white to bare ground wire.

New switch GE model 15265 ... to light up 2 - geno_3245_61.jpg

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • allanabram Dec 13, 2010

    Geno_3245's solution worked perfectly twice. Attach the timer black wire to the incoming hot wire, the timer red wire to the 2nd black wire connected to the lights, the timer white wire to the group of neutral white wires at the back of the electrical box covered by a nut and the green wire to a ground connection. If it doesn't work initially, reverse the timer black and timer red wire connections. However the key is attaching the timer white wire to the group of neutral white wires twisted together covered by a nut at the back of the electrical box.

    Thank you Geno_3245.

    AA

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Light switch wiring


Yes.
The code is maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.
You can connect a 12-2 NM W/G cable to one of the outlets. Black-to-black and white-to-white and ground-to-ground. Black is hot, white is neutral, and ground is ground. And bring that cable into a hollow-wall box you install 50" high on the wall. Then run the 12-2 cable up to your light fixture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-single-a-300.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

You can also replace one of the outlets with a combo switch-outlet. The run singe 12-2 cable up to light.
This wiring diagram shows half way down how-to-wire-switches page.
Outlets have wide blade on neutral side, and narrow blade on hot side.
The black hot wires from old outlet connect to side of combo device with narrow blade.
The white neutrals from old outlet, and new wire going to switch, all connect to silver screw on wide-blade side of new combo device.
The black wire going to new light connects to screw next to switch located on wide-blade side of device.

Aug 28, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have a new GE 15306 Mechanical Time Switch and need to wire it up to 2 white and 2 black wires that I had on my old timer. I need more information on the wiring than is on the diagram on cover of metal...


http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15306-wiring-250.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306

GE 15306 is a version of 120Volt Tork 1101 indoor-outdoor timer sold at Home Depot under GE name and number.

You have 2 cables.
One cable comes from Breaker box, and other cable goes to Load (light, fan, motor, pump).
Each cable has black and white wire.
1) Cable from breaker box: Black wire H Hot connects to to terminal L.
Notice there is a metal bridge that connects terminal L and terminal 1.
If metal bridge is missing, use a jumper wire and connect L and 1.
White N Neutral from breaker box connects to terminal X.
2) Cable going to Load:
Black connects to terminal 2
White connects to terminal X.
So both white wires are on terminal X.

Jul 14, 2011 | General Electric GE 56941 24-Hour Outdoor...

1 Answer

Bathroom switch controls light & fan. Trying to change out switch into a gfi switch/receptile. Box contains 2 wires ( total 2 white and 2 black, plus ground). what do i do


First you have to identify cables.
You have 2 cables that enter box. Each cable has black and white wires.
One cable probably comes from breaker box, and one cable probably goes to Load (which means your fan-light)

Separate wires for testing. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to brass 'Line' screw on back of new GFCI device.
Hot is identified. Test Hot to all other wires except bare ground. Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver screw that sits across from Line screw on new GFCI device.
Other two wires inside box go to Load.
These wires connect to the two wires that stick out on back of new GFCI device.

Ground wires are connected together and connect to green screw on new device.

Apr 21, 2011 | Cooper Wiring Devices ACE AC-DC...

1 Answer

I have a GE smart timer 15086 I followed the instruction and the light blinks when you turn it on. Please help


I test timers, and no damage is done.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15086

Sounds like you wired red and white wires together, or installed timer in place of 3-way switch.
15086 will not replace a 3-way switch.
For example, when 2 switches control hallway light, that is 3-way.
Link above has list of timers that replace 3-way switch.

How to wire 15071, 15086, 15265, 15266 timers:
1) Switch has 2 insulated wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
2) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. This will power timer electronics.
3) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
4) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button located in each corner. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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Jan 10, 2011 | GE 60minute Automatic ShutOff Timer Switch...

1 Answer

I have a ge digital wall switch mod 15265 My wall box only has a white (hot) and black (neutral) wires When I connect up the wires - black on switch to hot and both blue& white on switch to neutral -...


First of all the National Electrical Code states that your black wire should be the hot and the white the neutral...the black on the switch goes to black in the wall...the white to the white...and the blue wire should be the switched lead that goes to the light

Dec 23, 2010 | General Electric Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

GE Timer #15086 has red, white, green, black wires. Wall has white, black & black wires and switch sits between 3 other light switches. (I am replacing the current timer which only has 3 wires and...


GE 15086 programmable timer replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole means 1 device turns Load on-off.
3-way is where 2 devices turn Load on-off, for example 2 switches located in hallway.

Your existing timer has white, black and blue wires.
Your new timer has white, black, red and green wires.
Green wire connects to bare ground wire in every occasion with every wiring device.

Electricians don't guess, they test the other wires.

Remove old timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Tape ordinary tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. The Hot wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to timer white wire.

The remaining wire connects to timer red wire.
After connecting timer, push manual override button to check that Load turns on-off.

Manual override on 15086 is the door that covers buttons > use door as push button to check Load.
Next, program the timer.
Programming is straightforward and similar to other timers.
If you have a problem, add a comment.

You can also take advantage of Fixya phone support. Expert will walk you through the steps for a price.

Dec 22, 2010 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

15265 In-Wall Digital Timer - I am replacing an Aube with this new timer. Timer is to operate a wall plug (outdoor soffit). Timer is inside. The old switch had 3 wires - only two were connected (I think...


GE -15265 manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
Ah, the usual how to connect 4 wires to the old 'was-3-wire and now-2-wire' problem.

I tested and wired these timers.
Aube timer has internal rechargeable battery, and therefore does not need another wire to run internal clock.
GE timer has extra wire to run internal electronic clock, just like alarm clock is plugged in.

Heres what to do in simple format
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Old timer has 2 wires. Take both wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. This action will complete circuit to internal clock.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground. This works because bare ground and white neutral both connect to neutral busbar inside breaker box.
5) Turn on electricity, push in timer door for manual override. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.
If light does not come on, double check that outdoor bulb is good, and that breaker not tripped.
Timer can also be reset in event of short. Reversing red and black wires will not short timer.
Add a comment of you need more help

http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Nov 30, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. EJ500C Digital Wall Switch...

1 Answer

I have a combination single pole switch. Light switch and receptacle. In have running in the old box 2 white, 2 black and a ground. How do I install the new switch to have power to the light switch and...


You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

Nov 17, 2010 | Leviton COMBINATION SINGLE POLE TOGGLE...

1 Answer

Trying to install digital timer 15265. No instructions with unit. We are in a 1929 house. There are two black wires only. Which color do we add the white wire to? We assume the green is a grouding...


Your switch has two wires. Hot wire from breaker box, and wire going to Load.

GE timer has 3 wires plus a green ground wire >>> it has extra wire because tiny clock inside timer needs power just like alarm clock ... so here we go

Hot wire connects to Timer black wire
Wire going to Load connects to Timer red wire
If you get these reversed, the timer will not work, so switch them or read testing steps below.

Timer white wire connects to Neutral ... which is usually 2 white wires twisted together and pushed to back of box. IF your box does not have a neutral, connect timer white wire to bare ground wire ... until you can have electrician add another line into box.

Suppose you want to test your wires to see which is which:
Remove wires from switch
Separate wires
Use ordinary tester, tape leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from electricity
Turn on power
Test each wire to bare ground
Tester lights up on Hot wire

Now test for Neutral wire
Test Hot wire to other wires in box
Tester lights up on Neutral

Oct 05, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

I am replacing an old intermatic model EJ341 spring wound timer with a GE15086 digital in wall timer. The old intermatic timer has two black wires from each side (I dont know which one is hot). Each of the...


GE 15086 is a 7-day programmable timer. It has more wires than spring-wound timer because clock motor runs on 120V circuit, just like ordinary electric clock. The clock on spring wound timer operated by a spring.
f7d4104.jpg


If I understand correctly, the old timer has 2 wires. One of these wires is the Hot wire ... and that wire will connect to GE timer black wire.
The other wire from old timer goes to Load ... and that wire will go to GE timer red wire.

Instructions on a lot of these timers say, it timer doesn't work, then reverse the two wires described above ... this is because timer only works when Timer black connects to Hot.

You can also turn on power and test each wire that came off old switch to bare ground wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire.

GE timer Green wire connects to bare ground wire.

Moving on to GE timer white wire. This wire is necessary for the clock to run. This wire connects to Neutral wire which is usually white. You can test for Neutral by testing Hot wire to each white wire in box ... when tester comes on, that is Neutral.

If you do not have a white Neutral wire, then connect GE timer white wire to bare ground wire. This is not code, but it will work fine until you hire electrician to run Neutral into box.

Oct 03, 2010 | GE Electrical Supplies

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