Question about Fahrenheat Electric Hydronic Baseboard Heater, 240 Volt

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How do you wire the thermostat and power to the unit . I have a PLF4D heater and a PTDS thermostat. I have only the one heater to install. 240V 20Amp.

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  • cyrrob Nov 14, 2010

    Heater has a black and red wire crimped together with clear cap (I don't think I touch these) and another pair of red and black wires with a removable orange wire nut. I have to add the thermostat. On the back of the thermostat there is a black 2 inch long connector. It has up top a red and black wire opposite each other and another pair of black and red wires opposite each other on the bottom. Forget about the ground wires I I know about that. Obviously I have the source black, white and ground wires. I don't know what to connect to. The wire diagram is horrible in the directions.

  • cyrrob Nov 14, 2010

    Heater has a black and red wire crimped together with clear cap (I don't think I touch these) and another pair of red and black wires with a removable orange wire nut. I have to add the thermostat. On the back of the thermostat there is a black 2 inch long connector. It has up top a red and black wire opposite each other and another pair of black and red wires opposite each other on the bottom. Forget about the ground wires I I know about that. Obviously I have the source black, white and ground wires. I don't know what to connect to. The wire diagram is horrible in the directions.

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Hello! The Red and Black wires are the hot wires...Connect one side of the line to Red and the other to Black...You have a Double Pole Thermostat...It opens both sides of the line when Off or when reaching set temperature...Connect one of the two incoming feeder wires to one of the top two thermostat wires, or to one of the bottom two thermostat wires...Connect the other incoming feeder wire to the other top thermostat wire, or the other bottom thermostat wire...You should now have both feeder wires connected to either the top two thermostst wires, or the bottom two...Splice one of the remaining two thermostat wires to one of the two heater wires...It does not matter which wire goes to which heater wire...Join the last thermostat wire with the second heater wire....

Guru....saailer




Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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The red and the black are hot wires. Connect one of your conductors to the red and the other conductor to the black. Use wirenuts. The bare ground wire should be solidly attached to the new unit's green wire using a wire nut.
Regards, hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • John Fourteen Six Nov 15, 2010

    The red and black wires with a removable orange wire nut are your power connection wires.

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Replacing double pole 220 v with honewell ct410a two wire120/140v wiring diagram not clear


1 power wire (120v) will go to the thermostat and 1 power wire (120v) will go directly to the unit. The other wire on the unit will go to the other side of the thermostat. The safety precaution behind using a single pole to replace a double pole contactor is that you will always have 1 leg of power going to the unit. Many systems are designed like this from the factory, but it is always better to have a 2 pole to cut all power off to the unit unless it's in operation. The unit will still not work as long as it does not have both legs of power.
L1 to Thermostat T1 to Unit
L2 and T2 wired together.

This is only for 240v systems. 120v Will have 1 common and 1 power, therefore you will need to know which wire is which. Power to thermostat, common wired direct.

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First of all most home thermostats operate on 24volts. If you want to have one that directly turns the 240 volt power on and off you need to get a special 240V line voltage thermostat. How many wires come out of your heater? Most 240v circuits have three wires. A white wire for the common and two black or black red wires that are +120 volts and negative 120 volts. That's why a 240 volt plug has 3 prongs instead of two. If you look at the wiring diagram that comes with the thermostat it should give you an idea of how to hook the wires up. In your particular case though, I think I would try making friends with an electrician.

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I need to wire a remote thermostat to my electric wall heater in the bathroom. Not sure if I run the wire from the panel to the heater first or to the remote thermostat then the heater.


Run the wire to the thermostat then to the heater

BASEBOARD WIRING WITH A SINGLE POLE (2 WIRE) WALL THERMOSTAT - 120V OR 240V SUPPLY
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BASEBOARD WIRING WITH A DOUBLE POLE (4 WIRE) WALL THERMOSTAT - 120V OR 240V SUPPLYdennis675_0.gif

Jun 21, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

No hot or warm water what is the voltage reading susposed to be on the heating elements? I have 122 volts on each terminal on both elements but no action, what am i doing wrong?


If water is totally cold, then upper element is not getting 240V. Since element tested for 120V, then that says upper element is burned out, upper thermostat is bad, or circuit breaker is bad.
Best thing is to buy multimeter and do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Also read information below for understanding how water heater works.

Testing elements for voltage can be misleading.
If water heater has 2 elements, then tank is 240Volts.
240V water heaters have 120V on each element at all times.
So elements have hot 120V power, but they are not turned on until the circuit is complete with 240V.
Open following links to read specifics about 120V and 240V
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostat-works.html

240V is made from two 120V Hot wires from breaker box.
Each 120V line from breaker is called a 'leg.'
So 240V circuit has two legs, and both legs need to be turned on to complete 240V circuit.

Water heater thermostats turn off only one leg.
The other leg is Hot all the time.
So when you test screws on an element, for example test between a screw and any bare metal part of tank, then the screw will always show 120V.
That is just one leg of the 240V circuit.
But the 240V circuit is not turned On until both legs are connected.
Every residential circuit needs two wires to complete the circuit, and in the case of 240V, those two wires are both 120V.

When the thermostat turns on, it turns on the second leg to the element and that completes the 240V circuit.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Dec 16, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

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I have a Et 70115C Intermatic Timer, I want to install it on my Hot Water Heater, I have connected the 2 110V leads from my breaker to Terminals 1 & 2 and connected the two leads from the hot water...


A) 5 terminal ET70115C.
Voltage selector set to 240.

B) BUT you say you have 120Volts from breaker >>> confusing, so I'm proceeding on basis that you meant to say 240V from breaker.
Add a comment at any time.

C) Review timer:
5-terminal ET70115 timer has NO and NC terminals
NC is normally closed >> this terminal has power when timer is OFF
NO is normally open >> this terminals has power when timer turns ON
For water heater, you want NO terminal 4 so water heater turns ON when timer turns ON

D) Wire for 240Volt water heater

Two hot wires from breaker connect to terminals 1 and 2. This powers timer clock.
Jumper wire connects between terminal 2 to terminal 3. This sends power to the switch circuit.
Wires to water heater connect to terminals 1 and 4

E) 5-terminal timer turns off 1 hot wire to 240V water heater.
Turning off 1 hot wire will stop 240V circuit from working; Water heater thermostats also turn off one hot wire.
240V water heater has black and red wire.
Wire from terminal 4 should connect to Black wire on water heater.

Diagram shows two wires on terminal 1
Two wires on terminal 2
One jumper wire on terminal 3
One wire on terminal 4
Zero wires on terminal 5


geno_3245_133.jpg

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1 Answer

Installed new upper & lower elements & thermostats, only top htr works


If original problem was caused by sediment burning out lower element, did you clean sediment out of water heater when changing lower element?
Two element water heaters are 240V.
Thermostats cut power on one hot wire, but 240V circuit has 2 hot wires. So lower element has power at all times coming from the red wire.
1) Use ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> test each screw of lower element to bare metal part of water heater. Each screw should show 120V. If there is no power, then upper thermostat is defective, screw on upper thermostat is loose, or red wire between upper and lower parts of water heater is bad.
2) Remove wires from lower element. Use continuity tester or multimeter set to ohms <> test across both screws of element to see if power travels through element <> if element is bad, then continuity tester will not light up and multimeter will show no ohms. Put wires back on element after test.
3) Start with cold water in tank. Turn on water heater & upper element will turn on. Put ear on side of tank to hear if upper element is heating water. Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 240V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 0V.
Put ear on side of tank. When upper element turns off: Test #3 screw to #2 screw on low left side of thermostat, should read 0V > Test #3 screw to #4 screw on low right side of thermostat, should read 240V. If this test shows 0V and 0V, then upper thermostat is bad. If reading is correct, immediately move to next test.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Thermostats-numbered-divided-500.jpg
4) Turn temp on lower thermostat to 150. Using ordinary tester or multimeter set to 240V <> Test across both screws of lower element. If there is no reading, and you know element is good from step 2, then lower thermostat is bad, or wire is bad between lower element and lower thermostat, or wire is bad between lower thermostat and top part of heater.
5) Test across both lower thermostat screws, should read 240V.If this test is good, it means wires are good. Put jumper wire across both screws of lower thermostat, and test lower element again. If element finally turns on with jumper wire, then lower thermostat is bad.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

If wire is bad between upper and lower parts of water heater, and water heater has tight-fitting 2" foam insulation, it usually indicates water heater replacement.

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I have a large room in my basement where I would like to install four Marly 58" baseboard heaters to work off one thermostat. The units are rated at 1250 watts each for a total of 5000watts. I plan to...


Using the equation I = P/E where "I" is Amps, "P" is Watts, and "E" is voltage, we find that your 5000w circuit will have an Amperage of 20.83. A 22 amp tstat will work, it will just leave you no room for surges. I would suggest splitting the baseboard and using 2 thermostats. Hope this helps

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Line voltage Tstat installation Dayton D-F79 elctric shop heater


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4 Answers

Properly installed electric baseboard heater won't work.


I am an electrician. You must measure the voltage across the black and red wires. Measuring each wire to the neutral will not cut it. If both your red and black wire are on the same phase the heater will not work.

To double check your wiring, measure the voltage across the two screws feeding your subpanel, they should be 240v or 208v depending on your power company. Then do the same at the breaker feeding your thermostat. Again it should read 240v.

If you have no potential across the screws it is possible that you installed an incorrect breaker. Not all breakers with two screws on them are 240v breakers. There is what is called a twin or split breaker that has two screws that are on the same phase. These are for wiring two 110v circuits, when you run out of spaces in the panel.

Double check everything. This is a relatively easy circuit to wire, even for homeowners. If the heater does not work them something is wrong so do not leave the circuit energized.

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I just had the same problem last night. Wire the two red wires from the thermostat to the power source from the service panel. The remaining two black wires from the thermostat connect to the heater.

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Need wiring help with Fahrenheat PLF754 240V baseboard heater with Fahrenheat PT2DS double-pole thermostat Open kimono - I know enough about electrical wiring to be dangerous. I have a Fahrenheat PLF754 240V baseboard heater and a Fahrenheat PT2DS (also known as Marley T2) double-pole integrated thermostat that and the heater isn&#39;t working. My power supply is a single cable with white, black, and red wires. I traced the supply line back to the circuit panel and found that the red and black wires terminate on a DP-40A breaker. The white wire is grounded. The heater has 2 red wires exiting a center tube at the end of the heater where the thermostat goes and 2 black wires exiting a small cut-out near the top of the same end. There&#39;s also a green ground wire from the heater. The thermostat has 2 red wires on the left top and bottom, 2 black wires on the right top and bottom, and a green ground wire. An electrician friend of mine (since left town) installed the wiring, heater, and thermostat for me. It worked fine for about 1 year and then stopped working. I&#39;m trying to troubleshoot the problem but don&#39;t have any documentation on how this thing should be wired or how I might isolate the problem to the thermostat, heater, or both. I did verify that the power supply is good. Everything is currently wired as follows: Black power supply to black thermostat (top) Red power supply to black thermostat (bottom) One black heater to red thermostat (top) Other black heater to one red heater Other red heater to red thermostat (bottom) Green heater to green thermostat White power supply not connected - just wire-nutted Can anyone confirm this is the correct wiring for this configuration and, if not, what it should be? If this is correct, how best to isolate the problem? Thanks!

Dec 06, 2012 | Fahrenheat Electric Hydronic Baseboard...

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