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Have this Sony Bravia LCD model KLV40U100M. Its my mother in-laws and she was quoted like $450 to replace a supply board. Basically, I am a I am not going to pretend i know what I'm doing...but I have fixed quite a few amps and electrical components over the years on a few things. Checked capacitance at capacitors, tested diodes, and ohm tested the resistors on the board. It seems like you have helped a few people with this issue so I figured I would seek a second opinion. TV does not turn on at all when you hit power button...absolutely nothing. Main fuse is good as well. Any thoughts or input would be great help. Thanks in advance.

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  • Paul's Auto Repair LLC Nov 14, 2010 pressing time. I'm really just trying to save her $500. Even if I get the entire board it seems like it may only run me $100. Can you tell me if this link applies to my problem and if it will work for me. The thread is posted everywhere, and the sequence of events that they are talking about are the identical conditions. Can you take a look and tell me what you think?
    Thanks in advance.

    How to fix your dead KLV-40U100M, May 9, 2010
    This review is from: Sony Bravia KLV-40U100M 40-Inch HDTV Tunerless LCD Monitor (Electronics)
    I recently acquired one of these TV's from a friend who didn't want to pay for repairs. I was a technician with Sony for many years and while I have not repaired this product specifically, I decided to tackle the problem. This unit was dead, just like many others have reported. To begin, check the 5v line at pin 8 of CN19. If it is present, check for 3.3v at SW1 (the reset switch, which was not installed on these units). There will be foil traces on the board where the switch would have been located, just place your meter probes across these points. If the 3.3v is not present, then the cause is most likely the U24 Microprocessor Reset IC. This is a small three leg device (two legs on one side, one on the other), it is fairly close to the large Genesis CPU on the board. On my set, this Reset IC had a crack in it that was hard to see without a magnifying glass. As this part begins to fail, it causes an intemittent power on/off problem until the TV finally just stops working when the IC completely shorts out.

    Since I didn't have the part available, I just removed the part from the board and the set came back to life. You can fix the TV by just removing the part, however, it may come on sometime in a random mode due to the lack of a reset pulse to the CPU. So far, mine has worked perfectly without this IC. I've done a little research and found out that Sony does not sell this part, they want to sell you the entire board for a small component failure! People on Ebay are selling "repaired" boards, most likely they are also just removing the IC and charging $75 - $100 to do it. This part, ASM810JEURF, is not available in small quantities anywhere that I've been able to find.

    I posted this fix on another website, Agoraquest, for others to benefit from, but I thought I'd share it here since I know many people look at Amazon first for information. If you want more details, go to that website and read more. I am researching a replacement for this IC and will post back when I find one. I recently received a production test sample part that I will install in my set when I get a chance and report the part number here if it works. I hope this information helps someone to fix their dead set without having to spend money on it. This is a very nice set when it works!

  • Paul's Auto Repair LLC Nov 14, 2010

    sure. should get to it later today. the problem and solution was posted by a guy who was a Sony tech for years. the blogs and pictures for repair are on like 3 different sites. Try this:

  • Paul's Auto Repair LLC Nov 16, 2010

    Went home....follwed that blogs diagnostic procedure that I sent you. Had appropriate I pulled that little transistor (?) that he talked about. TV is mint. Saved the in law $500 and she is siked. I just put the TV on a good surge protector as recommended. Just thought I'd share...thanks so much for you help



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Since the fuse is good,it could be just that a transformer died.If the fuse fried,one thing could have caused multiple things to fry due to a short.However,it doesn't sound like the components you did check were accurately read.About the only thing that would be accurate is the diodes on the input power because all of the rest are not isolated and the circuitry on each side of it would affect the values.The 2 input diodes are naturally isolated with nothing on one side and circuit on the other.Are there any lights on the board?There should be a few LED's at least.If nothing lights up,it could be the input diode.You should get a fairly high ohm reading one way,then switch the leads,and the other way should read infinity,or vice versa.You could also try calling Sony to change the board yourself if you do not have the time it may take to check component level.It would be pretty easy and not dangerous at all.If the input diodes were bad though,it would be a drastic difference in price.If they do check good,I could see if something else next in line were bad.If nothing at all is happening,the problem should be right there somewhere.Just comment here and don't say approve or disapprove because it will cut off our link.Good luck,Greg

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • Greg McCarthy Nov 14, 2010

    Forgot something for just in case you want to ask about a board replacement.I also don't know if the TV problem is pressed for time or if there is an alternate TV available.Greg

  • Greg McCarthy Nov 14, 2010

    I couldn't find your specific link but when I typed in the problem word for word...OMG!There was a problem with tons of these.To post a link,left click on the bar where it says www.,then and it should highlight blue,press control+C at the same time,come down the page to the box here,and press control+V at the same time,it should list exactly what was highlighted..Copy and paste appears what you did with the quote though so it looks like you know.This link is from a listed problem here a few years ago,same exact thing.It tells about getting a board,but I posted it for our last option.A 3-leg device,2 legs on one side and 1 on the other is most likely a transistor,not an IC.An IC usually has about 16 contacts and up.It requires a certain voltage on one leg,a certain voltage on another,and if they are correct,the transistors biases,which means allows the signal to pass to the 3rd leg.1 input,1 reference,and an output.Not to rub it in but I also saw a forum which said exactly what I commonly recommend.Whether a new model car,new electronic technolgy,whatever comes out,wait a few years for the makers to work out the kinks before purchasing.iPhone4 is an excellent example.Dodge Intrepids were also.Ford Focus was basically a redesigned Escort but had issues.LCD's have even evolved within the last 3 years and plasmas had the same issues when they came out.If you can locate the part(s) to read the voltage,it is a good start.I would like to see the link you quoted too.Would you tell me the site?

  • Greg McCarthy Nov 14, 2010

    Also,check the resistance of the 2 input diodes.They should be right where the power cord comes in.Removing the U24 only is definitely not a good solution.Also,since it is most likely a transistor,it should start with a Q.Perhaps the components are located very close,unsure.I wish I could see it.When you do find it,would you describe a couple things located very close to it?

  • Greg McCarthy Nov 14, 2010

    LOL that's pretty crazy.That is one of the sites I checked out.I saw the Sony tech one also.

  • Greg McCarthy Nov 16, 2010

    Awesome.You are welcome.



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