Hello i have a very old ge furance with heat pump no wiring diagram and i am putting a new therstmot in and none f the wires are labeled.. therse is 8 wires

I can provide you with some general instructions on how to wire a 4 burner stove.
First, ensure that the stove is disconnected from any power source.
Identify the four burners and their respective control knobs. Each burner should have a set of wires connected to it.
Remove the control panel cover by unscrewing any screws or bolts that hold it in place.
Identify the wiring connections for each burner. The wiring should be color-coded, with one wire usually being black and the other white or red.
Disconnect the old wiring connections by unscrewing any screws that hold them in place. Be sure to keep track of which wires go where.
Connect the new wiring to the burner by attaching the black wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L1" and the white or red wire to the burner's terminal labeled "L2."
Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each burner.
Replace the control panel cover and secure it with any screws or bolts.
Reconnect the stove to the power source and test each burner to ensure that it is working properly.
It's important to note that these are general instructions, and the specific wiring diagram for your GE 4 burner stove may vary depending on the model and year. If you're unsure about the wiring or feel uncomfortable working with electricity, it's always best to consult a professional electrician or appliance repair technician.

The old mercury Q674's didn't require a common terminal, so if there's not an extra wire in the bundle you'll have to fish one up... Inside the old Trane, there should be either a terminal strip with the appropriate terminal designations or possibly a bundle of color coded wires. If they are wires, originally they may have had individual tags on them, but if there are none, you're going to have to refer to the wiring diagram for the correct color for transformer common. Or... find the secondary of the transformer to determine the correct one, then extend it up to the new digital stat.

Here are all the resources that are available for GE heat pump without calling GE and hearing them tell you to call service technician:
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-heat-pump-manuals-by-date.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Review-GE-Heat-Pump-water-heater.html
There is no wiring diagram for the bundles of wires coming from chip control board.
As general rule, these things are made to last 10 years, and afterwards will not function or be repairable. It's like a window air conditioner, except connected to water pipes, and connected to computer chip and multiple sensors, each susceptible to failure, and then the machine is used 24 hours a day, 365.
Designs have changed continually from 2009 to 2010 to 2012 models.
It's likely you got a nice piece of junk with depleted anode rod and failed sensors that stopped working and somebody got rid of it because it wasn't repairable.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-recycle-water-heater.html
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello, if this is a standard straghtcool/heat unit then Red- R terminal or Rh white- W terminal Yellow - Y terminal Green- G terminal Blue- Common terminal ( not always used) but ifyou do have a blue wire it will connect to this terminal.

Open following link for T104 wiring diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

Your new timer is L 1 X 2, so that is not Intermatic T104.
You might have GE/Tork 15061 that fits into Intermatic box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#GE-replacement
First thing to check is if new timer is 240Volts to match old T104.

If new timer is 240V, then here is crossover:
"Old 1" goes to new L >> and notice that L and 1 are connected by brass bridge. If bridge is missing, add a jumper wire between L and 1 on new timer

"Old 2" goes to new 2

"Old 3" goes to new X
"Old 4" goes to new X

T104 Intermatic timer is SPDT single pull double throw, so it turns off both wires going to Load.
New L1X2 timer is SPST single pull single throw, so it turns off one wire going to Load, and that's why old 3 and old 4 both connect to terminal X.

If this is too complex, then add a comment or buy new trippers and a new WG1573 clock motor and repair T104 for $20.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#T100

I usually buy a wiring harness adapter off of ebay.com or BestBuy.com to get wires that are labeled to work with the aftermarket radios available for your Buick Regal.

They don't cost much and can save a lot of headaches.

I am assuming you still have both motors, if you look on the side they will show you what wires go to what. Your Brown/white should be for the capicator. blk should be blk, blu might be white and red be red. I couldn't really say for certain with out looking at the diagram on the side of the motors. I hope this helped Tim

Hello,You forgot to wire the O terminal w1 witch is the reversing valve.It is important to check if old stat is using O or B in witch case B terminal=w1 leaving O unused.

Hello You have only 5 wires? multi stage if so ,is run by something else.Check that RH/RC is jumped out on new stat.Also check that O is not on the B terminal.If there is an A/B select switch set it to O.Emergency heat button dont matter as there is no wire to run it with only 5 wires.

W- White (heat)
Y- Yellow (condenser)
G- Green (Indoor fan)
C- Blue (Common 24v)
R- Red (24VAC)
O/B (Only needed if system is a heat pump)