Oven shuts on & off: Control panel inop at times.

when the lp conversion is done , it is normally just a jet size change that is done
however the air shroud has to also be adjusted to get a clean blue burn of the flame
The just jet change results in a slightly yellow flame which is incomplete burn of the gas and that creates carbon build up at the jet and burners causing partial blockage
I would suggest that you call in an accredited gas fitter to check the problem and if necessary , clean the jets and adjust the air shroud

f-9 is a bad lock the switch is shorted

There is a oven controller on those type ovens and if you cannot get your oven to heat up but the stove top still works it is because there are on different circuits and the cotroller will cost near $350 if you have a convection oven and twice that for a service person to install!!

There have been reports of gas ranges which have been installed with no leveling legs. (due to various reasons, like a new floor installed, but the counter tops stayed in the same place, so the range surface would be higher than the counter top if the legs were installed) In some cases, this results in an insufficient amount of combustion air for the oven. To test this, put the range up on a set of 3/4 inch or so blocks and try the oven again. Let me know how that went. Thanks.

I have the exact same problem and the cost for a tech to replace the door is $80 less than buying a new one. They have to remove the unit from the cabinets and pull off the exterior box to unscrew the door hinge. Mine is only 3 years old. I also bought a new oven range. Never really use it. Decided it was time to use the self cleaning. It did not work. $280 to put a new board in. 4 months later I went to clean it and again it did not work. The f*^ing thing only cost $500. Decided Easy off will have to do. Kenmore s*&ks

As for the door... I very CAREFULLY used super glue/ gel and it did the job!

Well, ours is working now. We called Wolf, they said the Error 01 indicated a problem with the latching mechanism (that locks the oven during self clean).

We called the local repair outfit (they've been here several times before working on this range), they ordered a latch mechanism and arrived today to install it. The tech this time had worked at an electronic company that I also worked for about 10 years ago (I'm an electrical engineer). So we had a good time talking about the old days and working on the range - I'm always curious about such things. We removed the latching mechanism - its an assembly with a motor and a couple of switches that are used to start and stop the motor. We tested the switches and motor using a meter and power cord. Seemed to be OK. The next thing would be the control board - which we had replaced about 3 years ago - under warranty. Before removing the control board we reinstalled the latch mechanism - and, of course, everything worked fine.

We were both a little dismayed about the quality of the assembly of the range - the wiring looks more like a rat's nest than the tidy routing that we'd like to see.

So, bottom line, neither of us knows what the problem was. Could have been a food particle lodged in the switching mechanism, an intermittent connection or ???.

One thing I noticed as we checked out both ovens: We put the small oven (the one that was having problems) in self clean for a couple of minutes - was OK. Then we turned it off and turned the larger oven to clean mode - when we did that, "OPP" appeared on the display. The tech said that was because the latch of the smaller oven was not in its stop position yet. We gave it a few more seconds then tried clean mode on the other oven and it was fine. I mention that because OPP appeared on the small oven once or twice when we (my wife and I) were initially trying to figure out what the problem was. There's probably a hint in there somewhere as to what the real problem was.

At any rate, its working again ($115 later) but I'm not real confident that it will continue. Next time, I'll open it up myself (not recommended). <g>.

I am not sure of the model number of my Garland gas range (propane) I bought it in 1970 from a farmer who had purchased it at a restaurant sale. It is OLD. (so am I) I have had trouble for years with the ovens going off at times and not relighting immediately. The right oven especially.
In the last 35 years I have had the thermocouplers replaced twice, the safety valves twice, and new pilots twice. The last time these were replaced was 6 months ago by a repairman who said this was the problem. Very spendy. The ovens still would go out. I had a thought (and related it to the repairman) that perhaps there wasn't enough air circulation to the oven burners (the top burners and grill worked fine) He said there was plenty of air getting to the ovens. Two weeks later I had my son help me move the stove out another 4" from the wall and I have not had one bit of problem with the ovens since.
You can buy new fire bricks for the grill at a heating shop. I am having trouble with the thermostats now, they don't regulate the ovens to coincide with the settings. I will have them replaced next.
Every one thinks I should just get a new stove. No way. This is a great old stove, I love it.

Why are the oven indicator lights flashing? Answer: When power is first supplied to the appliance, a flashing time will appear on the display.
If a flashing time appears at any other time, a power failure has occurred. Press Cancel, and reset the clock if needed.
When the oven is not in use, the display shows the time of day.
If the indicator lights keep flashing after you have tried to reset the controls, then you may need to contact service person.

This is from the Jenn-Air website.

I had the same problem with my stove. I tried to replace, glue the srews and other things, but nothing really worked well. It's a shame that Kennmore has such a design flaw in their stoves, but did nothing to help their customers.

Here is the solution that worked for me:

Fix the thread with helicoils (these are inserts that create a new threat in the handle). You can find the instructions how to use the helicoils on Youtube.
I replaced the crews with new screws that fit to the helicoil threat and now the handle is safely secured.

Regards

Michael

Try the unit out on some differnet outlets. Microwave ovens pretty well max out the typ. house circuit and going to one that is better wired or less loaded may make the difference