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I have a whirlpool la5558xtw2 top load washer,it wont spin,or drain,there is a grinding noise,like gears grinding when trying to engage spin cycle.have tried different settings for wash,and load size,still does the same thing?

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This sounds exactly like a bad motor coupling, the coupling goes bad and won't engage the transmission. This is an easy fix and won't cost much. About $12.00 and a service call should do it. While your at it have them change the plastic tabs in the agitator, they wear out about as fast as the coupling and should only add another$ 10.00 to the deal. These are common problems with these machines.

Posted on Nov 13, 2010

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3 Answers

Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer won't aggitate


My Whirlpool WTW6600 had the same problem. The tub no longer floated up and down on the center shaft, so it only spun, not agitated. You must remove the tub (with some effort) and lightly sand / clean the center shaft. Lube it lightly with wheel bearing grease so that after it is reassembled, you can pull the tub upward and feel about 1/2" movement. This will enable the proper gear assembly to engage. It can spin when it rests at the bottom of its travel, but once you fill the tub, it floats, moving upward, and engaging the agitation gear. Good Luck!

Nov 23, 2011 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 series washer is making a noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.

Jan 25, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore commercial washer making grinding noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82403140

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

Within the transmission are a set of plastic cams that raise the agitator gear when moving into the spin cycle. If the cams are worn, the gear won't lift high enough (about 1/18") and the gears will grind.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.

While you've got the motor and transmission out, you should check the Motor couplers for wear.


Jan 23, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore 80 series washing machine and the spin cylcle isn't working. There is a loud grinding noise during the spin cycle and the tub doesn't spin.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This also assumes that:

1. The machine will agitate and go through the rest of the cycles.

2. It will pump out the water.

3. Since it tries to spin, the Lid Switch is OK.

The problem points to the clutch and / or transmission

See the following for how to pull the clutch on Kenmore top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the clutch springs and pads seem OK, the problem points to the main spin gear inside of the transmission. If the clutch springs and/or pads are damaged, there is a rebuild kit for them.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance PDF on how their top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.

If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.

If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.

Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.

The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.

The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.

The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.



Oct 12, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Top load Whirlppol Ultimate Care II Top load washer will not spin, makes the noise like it should be spinning but doesnt spin...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

We had the same (plus another) problem with an old Kenmore top load, direct drive,neutral drain washer.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Problem 1. Major gear sounding grinding during spin mode. Major vibration also.

Problem 2. Spin problem. Most times the washer would drain but wouldn't spin unless the lid was raised and lowered. (According to wife, this problem has been on-going for two years).

After checking motor coupling (a bit worn but intact), drive block (you don't need a spanner wrench to remove it, a 12 - 14 inch pipe wrench works great) which was OK, clutch, seemed OK, we determined that the problems were in the transmission.

Two options, 1 spend $150 plus for a transmission.
2. Open it up and see if anything seemed seriously bad.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore)

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

the first problem seemed to be related to the agitator cam and cam follower not raising the agitator gear high enough (probably less than a 1/16th of an inch) above the agitator cam.

Found the right part number (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) which includes both the cam and follower. Bought one for about $10.50, installed it, put washer back together and problem 1 was solved.

Looked again at parts list and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.

Those cams/gears etc. keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

Whirlpool parts list for commercial washer, consumer washers are basically the same.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


With apologies to American-Appliance.com, see their description of how to tear down a Whirlpool direct drive.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


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It sounds like the coupler has gone bad.
Please let me know if it spins at all.
I can send yyou instructions on changing the coupler.

Vic

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