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Motor pulsates in rapid sucsession little pressure,with lance removed continuesto run normal,new lance same problem,my estimation is the valve at fault that controls the pressure switch

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  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins May 11, 2010

    Hi there!



    Please state model so I can assist you. Is this a pressure washer with problems?

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  • 1,036 Answers

It could be the pressure switch itself at fault. If it is reading (in error) too much pressure, it will shut off for a second and then pulse as you say.

If the pump seals have gone, you may get this effect too. Depends if the pump is being controlled wrongly, or just malfunctioning itself.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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1 Answer

Pulsation water lines


What you are experiencing is known as "water hammer" It is caused when flowing water under pressure is turned off rapidly. The pipes then shake from the shock of the shutoff. Properly routed and secured water lines are less prone to this anomaly. You can install water hammer arrestors on the washer supply lines. They can be purchased at almost any hardware store or home center. Water hammers can cause pipe joints to fail and should be avoided if possible. The one below connects directly to the washer supply fitting. You then connect the washer hose to it. You'd need one for the hot and another for the cold line.



25562518-jy1soycrhfcl0h3bywhdc0uy-1-0.jpg Here is a link to where I got this photo:


Shop at NationalBuilderSupply com


Hope this helps!

Mar 13, 2015 | LG Washing Machines

1 Answer

NO COLD WATER


"Solenoid". No, you probably don't need one. You shouldn't even HAVE one.

I suspect strongly that you need to prime the new pump. There should be a priming plug on the top of the pump. Remove the plug and pour water into it. Replace the plug quickly and turn on the pump immediately.

You may need to do this several times before the pump starts drawing water. You can hear the change in pump sound when it starts moving water.

It does help, while you're priming, to close any valve you find between the pump and the pressure tank. As soon as the pump draws water, slightly open that valve or the pump will cycle on & off very rapidly. When the pressure tank is pretty full of water (you're getting fairly significant pressure on the gauge), open that valve fully.

I always liked to have a globe valve on top of the pump with a bell reducer and cap above that for priming purposes. The globe valve permits VERY fast pump repriming, and the bell reducer acts like a funnel, making it easy to pour water in. With the globe valve closed (normal operation), the cap doesn't even have to be tight - I need no tools to prime my pump that way.

Jul 28, 2014 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag neptune MAH5500BWQ hot water fill runs slow


It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Apr 09, 2013 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

4 Answers

E9 E2 ERROR


Message = E2
Error = OVERFLOW ERROR
Cause & Solution =
The water is supplied continuously due to an defective inlet valve. Change the valve inlet.
The valve inlet is normal, but the water level sensor Change the water level sensor
(sensor pressure) is low. (sensor pressure).
The drain motor does not work - Test and if faulty change the drain pump


Message = E9
Error = SENSOR PRESSURE ERROR
Cause & Solution = The water level sensor is faulty. Change the water level sensor. (remove pressure tube and blow through it to make sure it is clear first)

Mar 10, 2012 | Daewoo Washing Machines

1 Answer

Power comes on but will not start wash cycle justs sit there and humms


Try the steps below:

- try running it without any load to see if it still hums.
- if it does, see anything underneath the pulsating disk if there's anything stuck. (like a coin or a pin)
- if it doesn't, You can also try removing the belt between the motor and the pulsator to isolate if it's a defect in the motor or the pulsator.
After that, If the motor is defective, then you'd have to replace that or repair it if you know how to. If the pulsator is defective, check again if there's something stuck in the bushings. If you've used the washing machine for quite a long time, you may need to replace the bushings and bearings of the pulsator. You can also buy an assembly unit for the pulsator if there's one available in your area.

Hope this helps.

Jan 27, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

No water , when running, loud pulsating noise


Usally when there is no water comming in it is the water inlet valve. First turn selector swith to see if it is only hot or cold water that is the problem. Take the hoses off the back of the washer and make sure that when you turn the water on that there is lots of water pressure comming out of the hoses. If ok. its probably the water inlet valve. There are two screws holding the valve from the back. Access the valve. Remove the fill hose from the valve. Remove the four wires off the valve and put on the new valve. Reinstall fill hose and install valve with two self taping screws you took out. Put your hoses back on and your ready to go.

Dec 22, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

F02 problem. Took drain hose and cleaned that out but it didnt help. Is there another spot to clean out?


if the pressure switch detects either water or suds, it commands the drain pump to continue. After 8 or so minutes, if it's still detecting water or suds, the F02 error is displayed.

try the following :
1. Check Wire Harness connections -
2. Check Drain pump. , as water drains at a rapid rate
3. Check Drain pump motor - , as water drains at a rapid rate
4. Check that the Drain hose and Drain Pump Filter is clear of
foreign objects. – , run a cable through both hose assemblies (exterior and interior) and to check if blocked.
5. Check the CCU –.
6. check for kinks in the hoses, and the height of the pump if beyond what the manual recommends.

if okay then check the Pressure Switch if stuck then run many Rinse and Normal cycles with no detergent and if you still get this F02 error. checked the state of the Pressure Switch’s Empty and Level 1 contacts which intermittently reported correct water level condition (EMPTY and Level 1). In all cases is contacts 11 and 14 (SUDS) continuously made (connected) irrespective of water level, rinse conditions and the use of no detergent.

Iremove the pressure switch and test it by blowing into the inlet and check to hear the switch click, test the switch
blew into the pressure switch hose to clear the blockage,

Oct 21, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

F02 fault on a hot point washer says motor jammed


Hi, 

I suspected suds build up, so I tried both regular wash cycles (e.g. Normal) and Rinse and Drain cycles multiple times to clear suds in the system, but still received the F02 error. Sometimes the SUD error message came up, but not consistently.

I ran the built-in Diagnostics tests. It made it to C:06 then got stuck.

In both scenarios above, the washing machine continued to try to pump water out, despite the fact that all the water had already been drained. After 8 or so minutes, the F02 error came on. As I understand it, if the pressure switch detects either water or suds, it commands the drain pump to continue. After 8 or so minutes, if it's still detecting water or suds, the F02 error is displayed.

I performed the following with no success:
1. Check Wire Harness connections - OK
2. Check Drain pump. – OK, as water drains at a rapid rate
3. Check Drain pump motor - OK, as water drains at a rapid rate
4. Check that the Drain hose and Drain Pump Filter is clear of
foreign objects. – OK, ran a cable through both hose assemblies (exterior and interior) and not blocked.
5. Check the CCU – appears to function normally.
6. There were no kinks in the hoses, nor was the height of the pump beyond what the manual recommends.

After more diagnostics and troubleshooting, I found that the Pressure Switch was stuck and reported the SUDS state (continuity made between contacts 11 and 14 on the Pressure Switch itself). I ran many Rinse and Normal cycles with no detergent and still got this F02 error. I checked the state of the Pressure Switch’s Empty and Level 1 contacts which intermittently reported the correct water level condition (EMPTY and Level 1). In all cases contacts 11 and 14 (SUDS) were continuously made (connected) irrespective of water level, rinse conditions and the use of no detergent.

I removed the pressure switch and tested it by blowing into the inlet and did hear the switch click, so it seemed to work properly. Given the diagnostics above, I concluded that the pressure switch hose must have been clogged.

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Jul 24, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Agitator not working


There are several things that can cause your machine to fail to agitate. First of all, you need to ask yourself a few of these questions:

1. Does the washer fill normally, initiate agitation cycle and just the agitator is not moving? If so, the transmission and motor coupling are likely good and the agitator has probably worn out the dogs that cause it to grip properly. The agitator dogs will need to be replaced and you shouldn't need a new agitator. (rough estimate = $5.00 to $6.00).

2. Does the washer fill normally, but stops when the agitation cycle is to begin? If so, I would suspect a faulty lid switch. The lid switch will allow the washer to fill, but will not advance the timer beyond that point on some models. (rough estimate = $35.00).

3. Does the washer fill normally and makes a loud grinding noise when the agitation cycle begins? If so, I would suspect your motor coupling is bad and needs replaced. (rough estimate = $18.00 to $20.00).

4. Does the washer fail to fill at all? If so, I would suspect a bad fill valve, pressure switch remaining shut off and/or timer. (rough estimate for fill valve = $35.00, timer = abt $100.00).

These questions are not all inclusive, but these are some of the more common problems I have encountered. If you can provide me with a little more symptom elaboration, I can lead you in the right direction and get a part number and a better price for you. I will need your EXACT model number (located somewhere along the lid opening. Post back with your comments if you need my assistance. A good majority of the problems associated with Whirlpool top loaders can be easily repaired by the average consumer without assitance from a repairman. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Jan 15, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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